The Turtle fountain – in Rome

April 30, 2008 by  
Filed under Europe, Leisure, Rome, Sightseeing

I was quite prepared to fall in love with Fontana delle Tartarughe, having read about it in the guide books, and I was not disappointed.

I think it helped that we made it our first port of call of the day and so we saw it fresh and without too many other people around. It’s a charming small fountain, tucked away down the backstreets in Piazza Mattei, in the area known as the Jewish Ghetto.

It was commissioned by the Mattei family in 1581 and was designed by Giacomo della Porta but sculpted under his direction by Taddeo Landini.

The tortoises which struggle over the rim of the bowl at the top, were only added a century later, and they make it all the more delightful. The current tortoises are copies as one was stolen and the three remaining were also replaced, with the originals now in the Capitoline museums.

Sculptures in a window near Piazza Mattei
Down the alley leading from the Piazza were several artizan workshops, including one with these lovely marble sculptures in the window. From here it’s a short walk to the market at Campo de’Fiori.

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To morning mass at St Peter’s – in Rome

April 29, 2008 by  
Filed under Europe, Leisure, Rome, Sightseeing

The bells were calling to us as we hurried along to early morning mass at St Peter’s. We moved through security and then up the steps, passing one priest after another whose walk, by contrast, was slow and measured.

As we crowded around the grilled doors, the line of priests waiting calmly to one side grew, each of them with a prayer book or their neatly pressed white alb folded under their arm. They rested against the balustrade, keeping a little apart from one another in reflective silence, their backs warmed by the sun as it rose over the top of Bernini’s colonade.

At five to seven the guard entrusted with the keys of St Peter’s fumbled with the huge padlock and unlocked it, and the small crowd surged forward in anticipation. We crossed ourself with holy water from the huge sconces, nodding to the marble cherubs as we moved on.

At every altar in St Peter’s (and there are many) a priest arrived and at seven o’clock sharp the masses started all around the basilica. Those with pews had a larger congregation, while at other side altars like ours only a couple of nuns were in attendance. On one side of the basilica was a chapel where mass was being said only for a congregation of priests, an invisible line keeping them apart from the other faithful.

A sign at the altar rail proclaimed that ours was the daily mass to pray for peace. The priest rattled through in Italian and at seven thirty the mass was ended, go in peace. As we left, another group was already moving in for the next mass and we headed back to our hotel for breakfast, ready to start the day.

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Off to Rome

April 23, 2008 by  
Filed under Europe, Rome

Well folks, that concludes my Valencia posts and not a moment too soon as tomorrow I’m off to Rome.

As we’re staying in a religious guest house, I believe that the technological possibilities for blogging will be limited, so I may not post anything until I’m back home next week.

So see you then, with some tales from the Eternal city.

Thanks to Giampaolo Macorig for his great Rome photo from Flickr – check out his other photos too.

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Related Posts
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