The TMB Diaries Day 3 – Mont Blanc from the Italian side – Rifugio Elena to Rifugio Bonatti

For walkers like us on the Tour de Mont Blanc, the routine was “early to bed and early to rise”. But as we left our bedroom in Rifugio Elena for breakfast at 7.30am, the cleaner was waiting outside our bedroom door with vacuum cleaner at the ready. We’d found the mountain refuges on our trek though France, Switzerland and Italy were a mixed bag and at Rifugio Elena it seemed that they couldn’t wait to see us on our way.

By 8am we were putting on our walking boots outside the door, with the refuge in shadow as the sun started to rise over the jagged peaks of Grand Col Ferret, the pass between Switzerland and Italy, that we’d crossed the afternoon before. The rough path now took us downhill, alongside a stream that was headed to join the river Po and eventually end up in the Adriatic.

In less than an hour we reached the bottom of the valley where there was a car park beside the river and stopped for a coffee at the very pleasant Chalet Val Ferret , a small hotel with restaurant and garden cafe. In the cosy bar I ordered a cappuccino, Julia a cafe con latte and we shared a slice of local torte, filled with sweet fruit puree scattered with pine nuts and a lattice of pastry across the top. A large guided group of Americans came in just as we were leaving for a quick coffee and bathroom stop, before heading in the direction that we’d come, towards Grand Col de Ferret. I didn’t envy them, knowing that they had a long, arduous day ahead of them, while we had a relatively easy one.

The muddy track snaked up behind the Chalet Val Ferret, through rather unattractive scrub, but once we got above the treeline the views opened out on the hillside. It was an easy, open path with fabulous views and I could count four or five glaciers on the opposite side of the valley, hanging below the rocky peaks. By late morning our side of the valley was bathed in sunshine and every so often we played hop scotch across a stream, that carved a channel of grey stone through the grassy green of the hillside.

After walking a couple of hours from Val Ferret, the balcony path gave us a grandstand view from one end of the valley to the other and the peak of Mont Blanc itself was in sight. Whenever we stopped for a break, we could hear the crickets chirping among the scrub and wildflowers, with butterflies flitting between silver thistles and patches of purple flowers.

We passed a mule coming the other way, laden down with baggage in support of a small group of walkers. Each walker had their belongings in a red cylinder bag and they were all being unloaded for a lunchtime stop. We continued a little further before we found our perfect picnic place, eating the local sausage and cheese we’d brought with us, with chili flavoured olives and bread that was getting a bit stale. Our view was of grey mountain peaks and glaciers backed by a blue sky, while from the bottom of the valley we could hear the river rushing and see it snaking along the river bed of shale.

By mid afternoon we rounded a spur and saw villages in the valley stretching out before us, while just beyond a group of old ruined buildings was Rifugio Walter Bonatti. Another half an hour and we were on the sunny terrace of the refuge, joining the walkers who had come up from the valley on a day hike and those who were walking the Tour de Mont Blanc. We left our rucksacks in our room, exchanged our walking boots for slippers provided by the refuge and sat outside to bask in the late afternoon sun, backs against the stone wall with a cold beer in hand. Even though today’s path had been undemanding, it felt like the perfect reward for our day’s walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc.

To be continued ….

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries Day 1 – Champex Lac to Ferret and a walk in the woods
The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries Day 2 – Ferret to Rifugio Elena and over the pass to Italy
Last year’s walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc – video diary

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Tour de Mont Blanc 2012 photoset

Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

We started this day’s walk from Rifugio Elena in Italy where we had a twin room with en suite bathroom which cost €57.50 per person including dinner and breakfast. The Refuge has room for 130 people in both dormitory accommodation and private en suite twin rooms. There is an e-mail address given on the website but we did not get any response to our e-mail reservation request and learned that it is better to telephone as their e-mail is down in the valley. Staff at Rifugio Elena speak Italian, French and some English. Tel (+39) 0165844688

We ended this day’s walk at Rifugio Walter Bonatti, named after the famous Italian climber, which was one of the nicest refuges we stayed at during the whole of our Tour de Mont Blanc walk and is highly recommended. Due to its popularity, you are advised to book this refuge in advance. The Refuge has a domitory and private twin rooms  and we paid €58 per person per night including dinner and breakfast, for a private twin room with the shared bathroom just across the corridor. The refuge can be booked by e-mail info@rifugiobonatti.it and by telephone (+39) 0165 869055. Follow the Rifugio Bonatti Facebook Group

My jacket and walking trousers were provided by outdoor clothing specialist, Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of mountain clothing and walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains, which are available both through their website and UK stores.

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds - we found it to be an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route with detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

This article by Heather Cowper is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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Lynton and Lynmouth – English Villages on a Mountain Railway

Lynton and Lynmouth are two neighbouring villages on the coast of North Devon known for their extraordinary beauty and unique railway. Tiny Lynmouth can be found directly across from the crashing waves of the ocean, whilst Lynton sits 500 feet above it on a cliff overlooking spectacular scenery. Connecting the two towns is the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, which consists of a funicular cliff lift.

The Cliff Railway

The history of the railway dates back to the late 19th century and it still operates in very much the same way is has for over a hundred years. Along the 862 foot track, railway passengers will be gifted with one of the most beautiful views in all of England. Both Lynton and Lynmouth have plenty to offer tourists in terms of English village charm, cultural attractions and natural surroundings. Visitors making the train ride up to Lynton can enjoy the scenic walking trails, most notably to the famous Valley of Rocks. The easy 20 minute trek reveals North Devon in all its glory and has become popular with tourists thanks to the herd of feral goats who make their home here. True to its name, the valley is also home to stunning rock formations.

Craft Shops and Cream teas

A charming ambiance and friendly locals make Lynton the perfect place to get away from it all. Visitors can choose from a good selection of local tea shops and eateries where they can enjoy true Devonshire cream tea among other things. Lynton is also full of great shops to explore. Crafting enthusiasts will not want to miss the Lyn Valley Art and Crafts, which is filled with beautifully handcrafted jewellery, ceramics and accessories. It is located on the site of an old church and focuses almost solely on goods made locally.

Down on the beach at Lynmouth

Down in Lynmouth, the beach is hard to resist. The shallow waters surrounding the town are ideal for rock pooling. When the tide is low the sea uncovers a wide range of shore crabs, anemones, periwinkles, limpets and mussels in a variety of sizes, colours and textures. Advanced surfers will also find that the waves around this part of North Devon are some of the best in the UK. Those who are looking to get on the water can partake in one of the many boat excursions departing from Lynmouth Quay daily. Boat trips typically last an hour or so, and show off the Exmoor coastline well.

Tourists have been attracted to Lynmouth and Lynton for well over a century and it’s easy to see why. The two charming villages could not be better situated to highlight the true natural beauty of the English coastline. The tallest cliffs in the country are located here and fall dramatically into a deep blue sea teeming with colourful sea life. The towns are as charming as the scenery and along with the fresh sea breeze; tourists will be greeted with the smiling faces of locals as they are more than happy to share their slice of paradise with the world.

Author Bio:  Many thanks for this Guest Post to Karen Orson who has worked in travel and tourism for over a decade. While travelling the world through South America and Asia, she has always called Devon her home.  Returning to her roots, Karen now works with Highcliffe House , a boutique guest house in the village of Lynton.

Photo credits: Railway by Lizsmith, Valley Of The Rocks by xlibber, Lyn Valley Art and Crafts by yrrek, and Lynmouth Harbour by ebygomm.

More things to enjoy in Devon and Cornwall

Cliff walks and country houses – in Cornwall (and a bit of Devon)
Hunting the Ash-black slug on Dartmoor – in Devon
Wet and Wild Adventures on Dartmoor – staying at Woodovis Park – video

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

 Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Wilderness Camping on Hinchinbrook Island – Queensland, Australia

Located just off the province of Queensland, this tiny island paradise recalls Australia’s primordial past. Craggy mountains ringed with mangrove swamps meet sandy shores licked by clear ocean waves. The untrammeled depths of the island can only be reached on foot; there are no roads. For all of you adventurers looking to find a remote and peaceful getaway, Hinchinbrook Island delivers seclusion, beauty and the feeling of having traveled back in time to an era of primordial simplicity.

South of Cairns, the township of Port Hinchinbrook is the site of a ferry that travels to the island. The ideal time to visit Hinchinbrook Island is during the winter season, from May through October. The temperatures are balmy, with cool nights and warm, sunny days. When the monsoon season sets in during the summer months Hinchinbrook Island Ferries reduces regular ferry service to the island or even halts it entirely. The only resort on the island, the Cape Richards Resort, also closes from February to March.

Self-sufficient camping

To maintain its pristine state, Hinchinbrook advocates certain guidelines for camping either on its beaches or in its interior. Campers must carry in all items intended for use and then carry them out again. This includes drinking water, as the only sources on the island, rainfall or water in creeks, cannot necessarily be counted on as a steady source as these are seasonal.

Ideally campers will plan for three or four days in which they are entirely self-sufficient. This includes sources of heat by which to cook, as open fires are not permitted at any time on the island. Campers must also bring enough food and the gear required in order to enjoy their trip safely. There are no shops on the island, but the Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge does keep basic supplies on hand. While there is one resort on the island, the Richards Bay Resort, adventurous campers can simply pitch a tent or just unroll their sleeping bags and lie out under the stars.

Trek or kayak to beautiful beaches

Hinchinbrook Island is noted for its exemplary beaches, of which there are several. Most are best accessed by the sea, but a few of them can be reached by following trails such as the Thorsborne Trail. The most popular beach, Ramsay Beach, is a gorgeous expanse of black sand that makes an excellent site for a base camp. The Hinchinbrook Island Resort is close to two very beautiful and secluded beaches, Orchid and North Shepherd beaches.

Travel around the island is best accomplished by sea kayak; however, there is a trail that follows the coastline of the island, known as the Thorsborne Trail, which requires a permit in order to trek its 32-kilometre length. Because the number of hikers is limited at any given time, reservations made months in advance are the best way to ensure a place on the trail when travellers wish to visit. Any trekkers wishing to climb the heights of Mt. Bowen must register separately for a permit to hike that trail.

For misty volcanic peaks, lush mangrove swamps filled with saltwater crocs, kilometres of isolated beaches and the opportunity to view some of the most beautiful expanses of scenery in Australia, Hinchinbrook Island makes the perfect camping adventure.

Many thanks for this article brought to you by Ray’s Outdoors – the Australian company, the specialists in camping holidays and providing campers with all the equipment they need.

Photo credits: Hinchbrook Islan by Tourism Old and Australian Tourist Commission

For more adventures down under read:

Perth, Australia – an unexpected gem
Alice Springs – the Australian Outback
White sand beaches, sheep and Maori Culture – A Motorhome adventure through New Zealand

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

 Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

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