Heather on her travels » France

Chamonix and the Majesty of Mont Blanc

Heather — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 15:34:27 +0000

The two Englishmen who discovered the ‘Priory of Chamouni’, or Chamonix to you and I, in 1741 could have had little suspicion that their visit would create an interest that would continue right through to the present day. So great are the mountaineering and skiing opportunities that the first winter Olympics were held here in 1924 and if that isn’t enticement enough to come try out the activities, then the breath-taking views should be.

Statue of Saussure and Balmat in the centre of Chamonix

Mont Blanc is one of the most famous and most visited places in Europe and one can immediately see why. Arriving in the Alps, the crystal clear sky so blue the shimmering snow on the mountains beneath seemed to take on its colour and the air so crisp I barely notice the altitude. I was so distracted by the natural beauty that I almost forgot to collect my suitcase from the coach. Transferring from Geneva couldn’t be easier with the Sat Bus daily service. Though I have to admit I really wished I could have afforded the helicopter option.

View of Mont Blanc above Chamonix

What a view that would have been, swooping up over the peaks and dips of one of the world’s greatest mountain ranges. Still, I couldn’t complain, I was there, in Chamonix. I’ve always loved winter sports, but more to watch than to participate, with one exception, ice skating.

Before my trip I’d assumed all the activities would be aimed at the crazy and the adventurous; those who love to conquer mountains either by climbing them and sliding down them, but I was wrong.

Pretty House in Les Bois, Chamonix

It didn’t take long for me to discover, not only a fantastic ice rink, but paragliding, mountain biking, great spas, golf, tennis and more hikes than I dare count. Now I may not be inclined to try out crampons and a rope to ascend to the ‘roof of Europe’, but a hiking trail or two to explore and I’m there.For me it was spring time, the snow was beginning to ease and the leaves were gathering on the trees so making my way along the mountain sides, looking out of the stunning vistas couldn’t have been more relaxing.

I was also surprised how family friendly the area is. The pretty meadows and hamlets of Les Houches are the perfect place to acclimatise children to the mountains and all they have to offer. One of my favourite touristy activities was Le Petit Train; this cute wheeled train may look like it’s just for kids, but the tour is a great source of local information, history of the town, its architecture as well as the sports and sportsmen and women how have made their mark on the area.

Savoyard cheese at Chamonix market

The town itself is almost idyllic in its Alpine construction and as I wandered around the shops I was not disappointed with the variety, there’s everything from the obligatory sporting suppliers to designer stores like Chanel. There are also local handicrafts, as well as some lovely tea rooms and pastry shops to refresh you during a hard afternoon of shopping.

And don’t miss a visit to La Refuge Payot, this quaint delicatessen sells some of the most amazing local produce you can possibly imagine, including wines and hams but it was the array of cheeses that drew me in and who can resist a brandy cake!?

Don’t be fooled into thinking Chamonix is all about the daylight hours either. If sitting by a roaring fire in your cabin isn’t enough for you of cosy evening, then there is plenty of nightlife in Chamonix. There’s the cinema, the casino and British style pubs, but for me, it was the local bars and live music spots that kept my evenings lively and bright.

Sunset over Mont Blanc

Catacombs and Space invaders – Paris beyond the Eiffel tower

Heather — Wed, 02 Nov 2011 20:51:41 +0000

Are you a young (or young-at-heart), hip traveller keen to explore the sights of Paris and have a little fun, but can’t find anything in the guidebooks that features unconventional attractions and youthful things to do? Everyone knows to go and see the the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, but if you’re too lazy to queue up for the Louvre and not fussed about Notre Dame, here are some cool suggestions for the adventurous spirits among you;

Paris Catacombs

If you’re into spine-chilling sights and a spooky atmosphere, visit the Catacombes de Paris that run deep under the city streets. After a winding staircase of over 100 steps, you enter a small passage that twists and turn, with only the intermittent sound of dripping water to keep you company. This subterranean ossuary is home to the remains of over 6 million people, whose skulls and bones line the sides of the latter part of the underground passage. The atmosphere and mood of the catacombs is truly something else; it’s incredible to experience this well-preserved cemetery that exists right beneath your feet!

Paris catacombs skull and bone pile

Space Invaders Urban Art

Remember the Space Invaders arcade game that was made popular in the 80s? The game features recognisable pixelated aliens, that have been ‘invading’ Paris since 1998.These cute and colourful creatures can be spotted on buildings around the city and are a lot of fun to find. The artist, Invader, has made it his life’s work to arrange mosaics of the Space Invaders all over Paris (and many other cities) with maps and clues on where to find them. If you don’t have time to hunt for them, you can always download or purchase an Invader map, showing you exactly where each 8-bit alien is hiding.

Rue de Seine Space Invaders in Paris

Père Lachaise Cemetery

Another famous Parisian cemetery is the Père Lachaise, where you can kiss Oscar Wilde’s tomb or play a song for Jim Morrisson and Frèdèric Chopin.This massive graveyard is the final resting place to a vast array of French and international personalities, from influential writers like de Balzac and Proust, to artists, architects, and aristocrats from Russia, the U.S., Poland, and elsewhere. Here you can visit the largest number of celebrities and historical figures in one place.

Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris

Where To Hang Out

Paris is divided into 20 districts or arrondissement that wind like the patterns on a snail’s shell around the city. Instead of ending up in the posh and overpriced 16th or touristy 7th, head to the Latin Quarter in the 5th and 6th and Le Marais stretching across the 3rd and 4th. Here you can find affordable accommodation and restaurants, great cafes and bars, artists, writers and even some Space Invaders. Both areas are known for their hip vibe and easy-going atmosphere and boast a vibrant nightlife once the sun goes down.

Streetlife in Le Marais, Paris

Get the info on these cool things to do in Paris

Catacombes de Paris
Père Lachaise
Space Invaders Urban Art

More things to enjoy in Paris

The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Time to start planning your family autumn break in Paris
Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris

Photo credits: Paris catacombs by seangraham, Père Lachaise Cemetery by Mark Turner, Rue de Seine by mariurupe, and Le Marais by drewleavy

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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The mountain clothing you’ll need for treking the Tour de Mont Blanc

HeatherCowper — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 10:18:13 +0000

Forgive me if you’re a seasoned long distance walker who already has all the gear to set off on a mountain trek like the Tour de Mont Blanc. If you’re an occasional walker like me, however, you may find it useful to know which pieces of mountain clothing are worth the investment and which will only get worn once or twice.

Having walked part of the Tour de Mont Blanc two years running, I had a much better idea this second year of what I should pack for my trek in the mountains. Bearing in mind that you’ll need to carry everything with you (no Sherpas in the Alps), the trick is to take just the right things and no more. Here are the things that earned their keep in my backpack;

Dressed for the start of our walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc

Essential clothing for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

Walking Boots – It goes without saying that you’ll need a comfortable pair of walking boots with good ankle support. So long as you’ve worn these in and are sure they won’t give you any trouble, this could be all the footwear that you need while you’re up on the mountain trails, although when you come down to the valley you might want some lightweight trainer style shoes. All the refuges that we stayed at provided slippers or plastic clogs to wear inside the refuge. If not you can pad around in your…

Walking socks – I always treat myself to a couple of new pairs for a trip like this. I found 2 pairs was enough for the 3 days we were walking, I might stretch it to 3 if I was doing the whole 12 day trail but the trick is not to over-pack but to rinse out and dry overnight if they’re getting too smelly. I also had some lightweight cotton socks for wearing in the refuge at night. And of course for the changeable mountain weather you’ll need a good…

Waterproof Jacket – Mine was a rather fetching cream Gore Tex jacket which I got from Ellis Brigham who specialise in mountain and outdoor clothing including womens waterproof jackets like mine. It packed up quite small but was substantial enough to keep off the morning and evening chill when you get up to altitude. I loved the cream colour, although my husband urged me to choose a more practical colour and I’ve found that you can easily wash it when it gets grubby. My jacket has plenty of zip pockets and a hood with visor that zips away into the neck when not in use. My last waterproof jacket saw me through a trip into the rain-forest of Ecuador 3 years ago and has been earning it’s keep ever since, so I have high hopes that this new one will last me a few years until I can finish the whole Tour de Mont Blanc.

I hope you enjoy the video below about what to wear for a walk in the Mountains on the Tour de Mont Blanc

If you can’t see the video above, please view it on my blog

Walking trousers – I took one pair of walking trousers, also from Ellis Brigham that were made of a quick-drying, lightweight fabric with a comfortable waist and zips on the legs to make them into shorts. I wore the same pair every day, only changing on arrival at the mountain huts in the evening. You should avoid heavy cotton trousers or (God forbid) jeans what will mark you out as a fair-weather walker, leave you soggy if there’s any rain and take ages to dry. Like my jacket, the trousers had lots of useful pockets for lip salve, maps and cameras. And on your top half you’ll need…

Walking t-shirts – I walked in a stretchy running t-shirt that I already owned, but if you’re buying anything specially, look for the lightweight, quick-drying fabric or specially treated Merino wool that is ideal for walking as it wicks away sweat and keeps you cool. I did alternate with a running vest but it’s probably preferable to wear t-shirts that cover your shoulders to avoid any painful sunburn if the sun is out, or you’ll spend all your time slapping on the sun cream. Of course if you’re not so lucky with the weather and it pours with rain you’ll need some…

Waterproof trousers – on both my trips, these were the least used item in my backpack, but then we were walking in August and were blessed with sunshine for most of the time. I did, however, hear tales of walkers who had bad weather for several days in a row and in this case your waterproof trousers will keep you comfortable and dry. Unless you do a lot of walking, I personally wouldn’t invest a lot of money in waterproof trousers, but would buy something inexpensive that will pack up small, but still do the job of keeping you dry.

Walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

Clothes to wear in the mountain huts on the Tour de Mont Blanc

When you arrive at your mountain refuge, the etiquette is to remove your boots at the door and you will normally be offered some slippers or plastic clogs to wear inside. Typically you would shower before dinner (if the refuge has a shower – some of the more remote ones don’t) and then change into your refuge wear which for me was….

Stretchy running trousers – these were comfortable, quick to dry and could double up for walking if necessary and I also wore a…

Lightweight cotton t-shirt that I kept just for the refuge and only put on after I had showered, so it didn’t get too sweaty.

My refuge outfit doubled up as pyjamas as I discovered that the sleeping arrangements were mostly communal with men and women sleeping together, sometimes in large dorms, so it was a bit pointless to pack your pretty nightwear. To keep warm I also had…

2 fleece tops – One was a zip front mid-weight fleece that I also wore when walking if I was cold, the other a lightweight long sleeve fleece t-shirt that would go over a short sleeve t-shirt. I found last year that I under-estimated how cold it could be in the evening at altitude in the mountain refuges, so I found that 2 fleeces that could be layered kept me cosy.

What I packed for our Tour de Mont Blanc Walk

You can see the contents of my rucksack laid on the bed in the photo above and the list of what I packed below (bearing in mind that we were only walking for 3 days, rather than the whole 12 day tour)

Clothing

Walking boots, 1 pair Walking trousers, 1 pair jogging bottoms, 2 quick drying t-shirts, 1 light cotton t-shirt, 1 long sleeve fleece t-shirt, 1 mid weight zip front fleece, 2 pairs walking socks, 1 pair light cotton socks, 1 pair waterproof trousers, sunhat, underwear

Other stuff

TMB walking guide, TMB map, miniature medical kit, small size toiletries, tissues, wet wipes, suncream, camping towel, silk sheet sleeping bag, camera, video recorder, audio recorder, mobile, enough cash for our whole walk, walking poles.

My thanks to Ellis Brigham for providing some of the clothing I used for this year’s walk. I highly recommend them for mountain and outdoor clothing, with shops in the UK and an online store. You can follow them on Twitter @ellis_brigham and on the Ellis Brigham Facebook Page with Videos on Youtube and on the Ellis Brigham blog.

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

What I packed for my mini Tour de Mont Blanc 2010 – video
My second year on the Tour de Mont Blanc – video diary 2011
Tour de Mont Blanc 2011 Day 2 – Col de Balme to Champex

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Tour de Mont Blanc 2011 photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

My second year on the Tour de Mont Blanc – video diary 2011

Heather — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:17:55 +0000

Last year when I walked part of the Tour de Mont Blanc with my friend Julia, I kept a video diary, filming at the end of each day my impressions of the things we had seen on that part of the walk. I really enjoyed putting it all together and re-living the highs and lows of our three day walk, so this year I decided to make another video diary as we walked the next part of the route, starting at Flegere, where we had left off last year.

View above Tre-le-champ on theTour de Mont Blanc

Some of the time I let Julia walk ahead, filmed myself quickly talking to camera and then had to jog along to catch up. Other times I was able to persuade Julia to film me (I had to catch her in a good mood, as not being a blogger she didn’t always understand the fascination of filming, photographing and audio recording every single thing we passed on the walk).

I hope you enjoy my video diary of the Tour de Mont Blanc walk below

If you can’t see the video of our Tour de Mont Blanc Walk above, please view it on my blog here
Subscribe to all my videos in I-tunes
Download the Tour de Mont Blanc Video Diary 2011 [MP4]
If you enjoyed this video, check out the others in my Video archive

When I look at the video it does make me laugh to see how fresh I was in the first shot when we had only just come up the cable car and been walking for a short while. Although the wind was blowing and making my eyes water, I still had the makeup and mascara in place – yes I am vain enough to wear make-up when I know I’m going to be on video for posterity! A few hours hard walking later and the sweat had stripped my face bare – so now you see me all fresh faced and natural (well natural anyway)

Outside Refuge Col de Balme looking towards Mont Blanc

On the first day we took the bus along the valley and ascended on the bubble lift to the refuge at Flegere where we had descended the year before – what had taken two days hard walking the year before was achieved in a 30 minute bus ride. The climb up was punishing, even more so because the weather was cold with mist and drizzle and once at the top we could not even consider taking the downhill descent on metal ladders which would have been slippery and dangerous. Because of this, our descent was much longer, down a rocky couloir to the bottom of the valley again at Tre-le-Champs. We stopped at the refuge in the pretty hamlet to have lunch and wished we could spend the night there, but after lunch it was up hill again towards Aiguillette de Possette.

View above Tre-le-champ on theTour de Mont Blanc

Through the morning Julia had not been feeling great and we realised that the altitude must be affecting her, as she found it a struggle to climb up but was much better once she came down to the valley. Because of this the afternoon with a climb up to Aiguillette de Possette was a real struggle for her and even when we got beyond that peak, we had to encounter a further climb and a face-off on the path with a herd of cows. Julia had been chased by a herd of cows as a girl, so she was positively terrified, while I was happy to get out the camera and film them go by. Finally, just as dusk was falling we arrived at the Refuge Col de Balme where the dining room was cosy with a stove but the dorm rooms had no light at all, and we shared with 3 Frenchmen, the only other guests.

Read my account of Day 1 – Flegere to Col de Balme

At the end of our walk in Les Houches

The second day dawned with blue skies and sunshine and spirits were high as we set off, skirting around the mountain and eventually reaching a point when we had a fantastic view of the Glacier du Trient, hanging over the valley. Julia was still struggling and by the time she reached the bridge at the bottom of the valley, she told me later that she was nearly ready to pass out. At the Cafe du Glacier, we assessed the situation and realised that we couldn’t make another 5 hours walk to Champex so in the end we had to hitch, train and bus to Champex, reaching it by evening. Although the Swiss public transport system was super efficient, we wished that we had been able to walk the whole way as planned – we felt cheated of our walking achievement.

Read my account of Day 2 – Col de Balme to Champex

Champex Lac

I filmed the final part of the video at Champex at our wonderful hostel – Gite Bon Abri and by the lake where we did a very gentle tour around the lake and then sat in the cafe sunning ourselves until it was time to get the bus to the station at Martigny and then on to Chamonix to our start point again. Next year, we hope to plan a longer leg to get as far as Courmayeur and into Italy. I’ll continue my video diary next year – Bonne Route!

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

Watch last year’s Video diary on the Tour de Mont Blanc 2010 (do I look a year younger?)

My guest post at Roaming tales about last year’s walk – Hiking the Tour de Mont Blanc

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

On the first night of our walk we stayed at Refuge Col de Balme (Tel 04 50 54 02 33) and the cost was around €40 per person with dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room. On our second night we stayed at Gite Bon Abri at Champex-de’en-Haut, which we highly recommend, with private rooms and dorm rooms. The cost was around CHFR 76 per person with dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room and the Gite may be booked in advance by e-mail.

I got my women’s outdoor clothing at Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds - we found it to be an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route with detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

At the start and end of our walk, we stayed at the modern, stylish, budget boutique Hotel Slalom that is perfectly placed in Les Houches for summer walking opposite the start of the anti-clockwise TMB route. Double rooms in the summer season €86-99 plus €10 breakfast and you can compare prices and book through Hotels Combined.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €28 + tax per person each way.

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Tour de Mont Blanc 2011 photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 2 – Col de Balme to Champex

Heather — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 17:03:59 +0000

We awoke to bright sunshine and blue skies at Refuge Col de Balme and the dramas of the day before, our exhausting walk and the encounter with a herd of sharp-horned mountain cattle, were all but forgotten. Rather than take the route to Trient as advised by our TMB guidebook, both the Monsieur from the Refuge and the other walkers there strongly advised us to take a slightly different route to Col de la Forclaz which they assured us would be shorter and easier. We skirted around the edge of the mountian keeping the height, with views onto the rooftops of Trient in the valley below.

Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc

After a couple of hours we came around the bend and caught sight of the Glacier du Trient in front of us, hanging above the valley. From here the path ran downhill, past another small refuge where the Swiss flag was flying to confirm that we had crossed the border into Switzerland.

It was tempting to lie in the sun or buy a drink on the terrace but we decided that instead we would stop when we reached the valley, conscious that we had a long walk ahead to reach Champex. We zig-zagged downhill through the forest beneath a cliff of rock where there were chains attached to the rock to help us get down safely. We could hear the rushing water from the river at the valley bottom and as we descended we could also see the cafe beside the river that we assumed would be the hotel at Col de la Forclaz. We had already been walking for 3 hours but I was slightly suspicious that I could not see the road that was marked on the map. On reaching the river we crossed the bridge and consulting the map again I realised that we were at Chalet du Glacier, with a sign indicating a further 50 mins walk to Col de la Forclaz.

Glacier du Trient on the Tour de Mont Blanc

My friend Julia had been finding the going tough as she was suffering from the altitude, and so we collapsed in the shade by the cafe with a cool drink to assess our options. As it was nearly 2pm we realised that a further 5 hours walk to Champex would be impossible and that our best option was to get to Champex by public transport. After a picnic lunch we set off in the direction of Col de la Forclaz along the flat path, with Sunday afternoon walkers passing us, heading for the picnic spot beside the river that we had just left.

On reaching the bar beside the busy main road at Col de la Forclaz, we consulted the bus timetable and established that the next bus to the rail station at Martigny would not pass by until 6pm, which would be too late to make our connections to Champex. We enquired at the hotel but were told that a taxi to Martigny would cost us 75 Swiss Francs, and so we decided that there was nothing for it but to hitch a lift to Martigny.

Walking down to Chalet du Glacier near Trient

This was a completely alien concept to me, never having hitch hiked, but my friend Julia was an old hand from her student days. We stood at the edge the car park, while Julia confidently stuck out her thumb at any likely cars, while I tried to fade into the background from embarrassment. Within a few minutes a car pulled over, a Frenchman with his two teenage daughters in the car. As Julia asked him if he might give us a lift to Martigny, he looked rather taken aback, and I wondered afterwards whether he had just pulled over to take a photo of the view. Nevertheless he agreed to give us a lift and on the way we chatted amiably to him and his daughters about their visits to their family in the area and how he had spent some time in Norwich as a student to improve his English.

Chalet du Glacier near Trient

River below Glacier du Trient

After being dropped at Martigny station we joined the very efficient Swiss transport system and two changes later, by train and then bus, we reached Champex Lac at 7pm in the evening – probably not much earlier than if we had walked it, but a lot more relaxed. It was a relief to arrive at Chalet Bon Abri, where our first sight was of a tipi in the flower-filled garden where a couple of campers were playing table tennis on the outdoor table. As soon as we entered, we realised that this was a very different proposition to the basic facilities at Refuge Col de Balme from the night before.

Waiting for the train at Martigny

We found ourselves in a traditionally built Swiss chalet that felt modern and stylish with a dining room and bar at the front and a reception around the back where we could take off our rucksacks and boots. We put on the plastic clogs provided and left our boots in the basement, then Madame showed us to our dorm room with cheerful red checked duvets. As dinner was about to be served we went down straight away for homemade soup and chicken in a wine sauce, while we examined the map and planned next year’s leg to continue on the Tour de Mont Blanc to Courmayeur.

Chalet Bon Abri Champex en Haut

The next morning we took a short walk around the lake at Champex and chilled out in a cafe until it was time to take the bus and train back to Chamonix where we had started 3 days before. This small resort town was altogether more tame than the high mountain paths we had been on, and most of the visitors appears to be retirees taking the mountain air without an strenuous exertion.

Champex Lac

The lesson we had learned was that next year each day’s walk would need to be shorter, with plenty of time for resting our legs and admiring the mountain scenery. However efficient the public transport system, we would much rather be high in the mountains with views of glaciers and toy-town villages in the valley and kidding ourselves that we were real Tour de Mont Blanc walkers.

More Tour de Mont Blanc Tales

A Tale of Two Refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc (2011)
My Tour de Mont Blanc Diary Day 1 – Flegere to Refuge Col de Balme (2011)
Video diary – walking the Tour de Mont Blanc above Chamonix (2010)

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

For women’s mountain clothing I used Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €28 + tax per person each way.

www.flickr.com

heatheronhertravels’ France – Tour de Mont Blanc 2011 photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 1 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme

Heather — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 17:27:53 +0000

We started this year’s walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc at the spot where we had come down from the mountain last year – the top of the Flégère chair lift above Chamonix. Last year we had descended in brilliant sunshine but now there was a light drizzle that we hoped would soon pass. We’d already persuaded an elderly man at the bus stop in Les Houches to take our ‘before’ photo looking fresh and keen. Now we posed again for photos to mark the start of our three days in the mountains, although I could tell that my friend Julia was anxious to get off for the long day’s walk ahead.

At the top of the Flegere Lift above Chamonix

We skirted the hillside, the weather getting increasingly misty as we climbed until we met an impressive cascade of waterfalls with a few wooden bridges to cross. Julia was ahead of me, making good time as I stopped to take photos and a bit of video, so I had to run a bit to catch up with her. By the time we reached a cairn and small hut which marked a crossing of ways, Julia had sensibly put on her waterproof trousers, although I was still resisting, hoping that the rain might pass over. At this point a decision was to be made over the route – either to take a more direct path which would take us down sheer rock faces down a series of ladders or to take a longer route that skirted further up the mountain to bring us down again at the bottom of the ladders. With the rain showing no sign of abating we decided that wet and slippery ladders were too much of a risk and continued onwards and upwards.

The trail from La Flegere

Views above Tre-le-Champ near Argentiere

Our choice of route was still challenging, taking us up to 2000 metres then steeply down through rocky terrain that was hard on the knees, clambering over rocks, then a steep descent on easier paths where we could look down on a busy road below with toy cars passing along the valley. We wished we did not have to descend again, only to lose the height that we had punished our legs to gain and knowing that what comes down must go up again.

On reaching the road we passed the information centre for the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve and walked a little further down the path into the pretty hamlet of Tré le Champ. Here was a charming Alpine scene, with brightly coloured geraniums at every window and neatly stacked wood piles waiting for winter fires. We stopped for lunch at the Auberge la Boerne with accommodation for walkers and rather wished that we could be staying the night here, as it felt so civilised. I ate a warm slice of quiche with salad while Julia tried the Tarte aux Mytilles washed down by a cup of strong black coffee, although not being used to the French style she had to go back to ask for a “grande café aux lait’ to get something more suited to English tastes.

Tre-le-champ on the Tour de Mont Blanc

Lunch at Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne

After lunch we walked out of the gate of the Auberge, past some small tents pitched on grassy terraces beside the stream and continued on the path that took us up through the forest, past a couple of old houses and a small chapel. By now the rain had cleared and we were enjoying some sunshine in between the clouds.

Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne

We climbed up again, regaining hight until after 45 minutes the trees started to thin out and we could see something of the view. Julia had not been feeling great as we climbed up throughout the morning although she was fine over lunch, but now climbing up again she was finding the going tough and we concluded that the altitude might be affecting her. We continued however, reaching a sign which pointed us a further 1.5 hrs up to the highest point of our walk that day, at the Aiguillette du Possette at 2200 metres.

View above Tre-le-champ on theTour de Mont Blanc

The climb was steady and then the Aiguillette came in sight, with the path climbing higher and higher in front of us. Just as I reached what seemed like the top, another crest would come in sight with a small cairn where rocks were piled alongside the path. Then as that crest was reached another and yet another appeared. Finally I reached the top and waited for Julia who was having to walk at a painfully slow pace but was still managing to keep going. At the top we celebrated the long and difficult climb with some photos and took some time to drink in the views in all directions with a look down to villages in the valleys on both sides of the crest.

At the top of L'Aguillette des Posettes on the Tour de Mont Blanc

Ahead of us and to the left we could see the blue water of the reservoir, Lac d’Emosson hanging above the valley with an enormous dam keeping the water from spilling down the mountain and cascading into the valley. I reflected that I probably would be scared to live in one of those houses immediately below the reservoir in case one day the dam burst and washed me away. We now descended gently along a ridge past small pools reflecting the sky, some crystal clear and others filled with weed. Below us was an undulating meadow with numerous ski pylons, that would become a ski piste in the winter season. As we reached the bottom of the meadow it was around 6.30pm and the clouds were starting to close in, blown by the wind along the crests of the mountains.

Walking down from L'Aiguillette des Possettes

Cows on the road to Col de Possette

The sign now indicated a further hour’s climb along an easy path up to Refuge Col de Balme where we had booked to stay that night. Julia was by now really on her last reserves of energy, just about able to put one foot in front of the other. If only we could just reach the Refuge before the mist and cloud turned to darkness. As we turned a corner we faced another delay – a herd of large cattle with sharp horns and alpine bells clanging barred our path. They were going one way and we the other and somehow we would have to pass each other. I was relaxed but Julia was terrified – she told me later that she had once been chased by a herd of cows as a young girl. We moved off the path and gradually the cattle moved past in pairs, bells clanging loudly. Finally at nearly 8pm we rounded the mountain and Refuge Col de Balme loomed out of the mist. What a relief – it had been a long day!

Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

A tale of two refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc (2011)
Day 2 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Refuge de Bellachat to Flégère (2010)
Day 3 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flégère to Lac Blanc (2010)

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

For mountain clothing I used Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €28 + tax per person each way.

www.flickr.com

heatheronhertravels’ France – Tour de Mont Blanc 2011 photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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A tale of two Refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc

HeatherCowper — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:47:38 +0000

The mist was swirling in as we reached Refuge Col de Balme, our first stop on the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, with the clouds blowing over the high passes as dusk was falling. Our way had been blocked by a herd of sharp horned cattle, their large bells clanging from the leather collars around their necks. We moved off the path into the brush to let them pass, not knowing if they might try to butt us out of the way. A little further on, the Refuge was in darkness, but a car was parked outside, so I skirted around and an elderly man eventually came to the window. When he asked what I wanted, I explained that I’d rung him to reserve a place and he came to open the front door, indicating where we should leave our rucksacks, inside the door.

Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc

The dining room was cosy from a metal stove in the middle of the floor and my hands began to thaw out. We appeared to be the only walkers there, and an elderly lady shuffled forward to serve us hot tea from the bar. For supper a simple meal of omlette jambon was proposed, with green salad, local cheese and bread, followed by a Tarte aux Myrtilles in a dry pastry case. Shortly afterwards three other walkers arrived, two men, one with his teenage son, who had come up from Champex in the opposite direction to us. We compared notes, realising that we had both tried to ring the Refuge to book with little success – it seemed that the couple were not over anxious to take bookings. Madame showed us to the dortoirs upstairs, where the electric lights only extended as far as the stairwell and switched off automatically after a few minutes – thank goodness for the head torches.

Madame brought us three blankets for the night between the two of us – an extra one for my friend Julia as she had not been feeling well due to the altitude. I enquired in my most polite French whether it might be possible for me to also have an extra blanket? “Oh, c’est pas la peine” said Madame – no need, as the three men would be in the dortoir with us and we would all soon get warm. Eyeing the other empty rooms on the landing I wondered whether the Monsieurs might be in a separate room to us ladies, but my suggestion was dismissed – the other rooms were all shut for the end of the season.

Dining room at Refuge Col de Balme

The toilet just along the corridoor was pointed out to us, with a tap near the floor to fill a washing up bowel and act as a sink. We were just glad that we wouldn’t need to go outside into the freezing cold, to use the portaloo that was there for walkers coming to the cafe in the day. I went to bed fully clothed and lay awake for a few hours trying to get warm, draping my coat and spare fleece over me and wondering whether I might risk waking the other sleepers by get up and put on a second set of clothes. In the morning we discovered a second bathroom that Madame had failed to mention, and hurried down to breakfast of coffee and baguette with jam. Our rucksacks packed, we set off along the path that skirted the mountainside, pausing only to admire the view of Mont Blanc, it’s snow capped peaks framed by a blue sky.

Outside Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc

Later that day, things were quite different as we arrived at Chalet Bon Abri, having crossed into Switzerland and made it by a combination of hitch hiking, bus and train to Champex Lac (that’s another story). Just down the track above the lake we spotted first the tipi in the flower filled garden and then a couple of campers playing table tennis on the table outside. This place was a well-run Swiss hostel in wooden chalet style but where everything was stylish and modern inside.

Dortoir at Chalet Bon Abri in Champex

Madame showed us where to leave our boots downstairs and pointed us to the neatly stacked pairs of plastic clogs that we could borrow to wear indoors. Upstairs, our dorm room had three bunks but luckily we had the room to ourselves and the red checked quilts and orange sheets looked invitingly cosy. Just down the corridor their was a spotless new shower room with piping hot water, although as dinner was being served promptly at 7pm, we went down straight away.

Chalet Bon Abri at Champex

An aperitif of white wine with cheesy waifer biscuits would not have been out of place in a smart restaurant, and we enjoyed the home made carrot soup, followed by chicken in a wine sauce, while examining the route we had just come on the topographic map on the wall. The map was ideal to help us plan our route for next year when we hope to walk a further leg of the Tour de Mont Blanc from Champex Lac to Courmayeur. Is it better to be high in the mountains with basic facilities, or down in the valley with a little more comfort? Let’s just say that we’re planning to start our walk from Chalet Bon Abri next year, and I can’t wait!

Dining room at Chalet Bon Abri

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

My guest post at Roaming tales about last year’s walk – Hiking the Tour de Mont Blanc
My second year on the Tour de Mont Blanc – video diary 2011
My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 2 – Col de Balme to Champex

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

For outdoor clothing I used Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €28 + tax per person each way.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Disneyland Paris – Our 5 top rides for all the family

Heather — Sat, 13 Aug 2011 09:45:56 +0000

School’s out for summer! Great for the kids, but if you’re a parent you’ll know how difficult it can be to keep them entertained and out of your hair, especially when it’s raining outside. Let’s face it – the constant chants of ‘I’m bored’ can make those six weeks can feel longer and more tedious than a Led Zeppelin drum solo.

So before you take them to the seaside for the umpteenth time, why not give them a summer holiday to remember by taking a trip to Disneyland Paris? There are all sorts of Disneyland Paris Packages available too. Do your research and you can usually find deals and offers to help you keep the costs of a trip down. You could even make a short break of it by piling the kids into the car and taking the ferry to France – an adventure in itself.

When you get there, what are the rides you really shouldn’t miss? Well, that will depend on the age of your child. Taking a toddler on a rollercoaster is a mistake you won’t make twice – although on the plus side it may stop them pestering you for an ice cream afterwards. Here are five of our favourite rides for all the family.

Children at Disneyland Paris © Disney

Best for toddlers – It’s A Small World

One of Disney’s trademark attractions and the Paris version is its most impressive yet. This gentle boat ride through (Disney’s version of) the countries of the world is tame enough for even the littlest members of the family. The kids will be enchanted with the singing animatronic dolls, while you’ll marvel at the kitsch factor. Well worth a visit, just don’t blame us when you can’t get the song out of your head afterwards.

Dumbo the flying elephant ride at Disneyland Paris © Disney

Best for kids – Dumbo The Flying Elephant

This carousel in the sky is just fast enough to thrill, but not too scary that it’ll put your youngsters off fairground rides for life. Not only do you get to fly on everyone’s favourite airborne elephant, but a small lever in front of your seat lets you control your very own Dumbo, letting him fly higher or lower. Children under 1.2 metres must be accompanied by an adult. If that’s you, make sure you let your little pilot sit on the right of the ride, to give them a great view over the whole of Fantasyland (if they’re able to open their eyes).

Phantom Manor at Disneyland Paris © Disney

Best for teenagers – Phantom Manor

If your teen loves watching scary movies and frightening themselves silly, Frontierland’s Phantom Manor is the ride for them. Definitely not one for babies or very small children, this haunted mansion ride has a fantastic plot and some ghoulish special effects. You’ll be greeted by your ghostly host in the famous ‘stretch’ rooms, where walls move both up and down to create a chilling illusion. Then you’ll board your buggy for a tour round the mansion. If that doesn’t scare them enough, visit the attraction at night for an even spookier feel.

Sleeping Beauty Castle fireworks at night © Disney

Best for dads – The Twilight Zone Tower Of Terror

Any ride that warns people with heart conditions not to board is not to be messed with. Definitely the scariest, most adrenaline-filled experience in the whole of Disneyland Paris, the haunted hotel features some amazing sets, a spooky ambience – and a faster-than-gravity drop of around 160 feet. Think that’s not enough to thrill you, dads? Well take this advice from Tower of Terror pros: hold out your arms while lifting your feet off the floor just before the lift is about to drop for a more enhanced zero gravity effect.

Buzz Lightyear Lazer blast at Disneyland Paris © Disney/Pixar 2007

Best for the whole family – Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast

A combination of a ride and a shooting gallery, this is great fun for both young kids and their wimpy parents. The park’s only interactive ride, you’ll board a space vehicle complete with two laser pistols and a joystick, allowing you to move around and fire at targets, earning you points as you all go along. Great for competitive dads and it’s got Buzz Lightyear in it – what more could you want?

P&O Ferries is running competition to win a family break to Disneyland Paris – see the P&O Ferries Facebook page for more details (offer ends 30/09/11)
Update: This competition has been extended to 15th October 2011 for even more chances to win that family break!

More fun near Disneyland Paris

Our supercalifragilistic day at the magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris
The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or Tourist Trap?
Visiting the Canadian War Memorial at Vimy Ridge, Northern France

My thanks for this sponsored post to P & O Ferries

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Aquaducts and Artizan Parfumeurs on the French Riviera

HeatherCowper — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 12:00:02 +0000

In this guest post, Neil Campbell shares his family holiday, driving south towards the French Riviera, finding that the inland attractions, such as the Gorges du Verdon, Roman aqueducts of Frejus and artizan parfumers of Grasse were more captivating that the crowded beaches and promenades of Nice.

Back in 2008 my wife and I were planning a holiday for the following June. We had enjoyed trips with our 3 children to campsites in northern France for a number of years, but recently had got a bit fed up with the weather (grey and cold)!

We decided that our next holiday would have to provide (so far as it’s possible to guarantee) warm weather and warm water to swim in! We decided to try the south-east coast of France, an area commonly referred to as the French Riviera. I was interested to go as I had never visited this part of France before.

Lakes in the Jura region of France

We decided that we would stay in mobile homes on campsites (as we had done on many previous holidays on France) since this gives a good combination of relative comfort and facilities for the children to enjoy. The initial plan was to fly with a low-cost airline and hire a car. Unfortunately a quick check on flight prices revealed that the cost of flights in the school holidays was going to be prohibitive – not my definition of low-cost! We decided that we would drive to save some money, stopping overnight once in each direction.

Our stopovers in each direction were also in mobile homes on camp sites. This works much better for us than staying in hotels as 5 is a difficult number to accommodate in hotels; you usually need to have 2 rooms. On the outward journey we stopped at Lac de Challon in the Jura region of France. This was an area we had not been to before and we were so impressed with the lakes and scenery that we decided we should come for a proper break to the area in the future.

The North Aqueduct, Fréjus

The journey to our campsite in the town of Frejus was uneventful, with the in-car DVD player proving invaluable in keeping the children occupied. The campsite was about a mile from the coast and had an excellent swimming pool complex.

Frejus itelf is a pleasant town (especially the older parts away from the coast), with a very interesting Roman ampitheatre to explore. Development on this stretch of the French coast is rather intrusive and (to my mind) rather spoils the natural beauty.

The best beach that we found for family use was a little way east at Agay; a pretty little horse-shoe bay backed by a few good value cafes and restaurants. Although swimming in the sea was very pleasant, the most memorable things that we did were away from the bustle of the coast.

We spent an interesting day exploring the route of the Gorge du Verdon by car. The Gorge du Verdon is a spectacular gorge up to 700m deep and 25km long. The striking turquoise water of the river (after which it is named) is a particular feature. Having young children with us meant that we decided not to do any of the hikes on offer, but we enjoyed the various viewing points along the roads that skirt the southern rim of the canyon.

Gorge du Verdon in France

We decided to pay Nice a quick visit as we wanted to see at least one of the iconic destinations in this area. To be honest I was a little disappointed with Nice. In parts it is a little bit shabby and in others glitzy, but always expensive. The beach was packed with terrace-style restaurants that spoil the view. Unless you are amazingly rich or enjoy looking in shop windows at the extortionate prices of fashion goods then I would give it a miss. We had a quick stroll on the promenade and a (very expensive!) ice cream and departed for the tranquility of a perfume garden near Grasse.

Promenade des Anglais and beach in Nice

La Bastide du Parfumeur is a perfume garden located in the village of Mouans-Sartoux inland from Nice. On a warm summer’s day such as the day we visited it is a truly heavenly place. Nearby Grasse is of course the worldwide centre of the perfume industry and this garden demonstrates many of the plants that are used in famous scents. This is not a beautifully manicured formal garden but a gloriously natural celebration of perfumed plants. Children and adults alike are encouraged to pick leaves and sample the many strange and beautiful scents. There is also a small shop where various reasonably priced perfumed products can be purchased, ideal for bringing the memory of your visit back. I think that the visit to this garden was the highlight of our trip. I discovered the following review of the garden which gives more information/photos.

La Bastide du Parumeur

Our week was soon over and it was time to head home. Our journey was again uneventful, with an overnight stop in the same area of France.

Our aims for the holiday were to see this iconic region of France on a bit of a budget and we had hoped to save money by driving rather than flying. I think in this respect we were not entirely successful. Once the cost of overnight stops, diesel, and motorway tolls were added up we probably saved a bit but not much. On the other hand our overnight stops were an enjoyable part of the holiday and introduced us to another region of France (Jura) so direct comparisons are difficult. One lesson learned was that stopping for one night is not as relaxing as it could be. If we do another trip like this we would stop for two nights to completely break the journey up and have a full day to relax.

As far as the region (French Riviera) goes, my assessment might be influenced by the fact that the pound/Euro exchange rate was virtually parity; making an already expensive region even more so! It’s good to have seen some of the the coastal areas, but I would not necessarily hurry back. The inland areas around Grasse and the Gorge Verdon were far more memorable.

My thanks for this guest article to Neil Campbell who writes at DebtAdvice4Free. As often happens, the journey and the things we see along the way is often more rewarding than the destination itself.

Photo Credits: Promenade des Anglais by jimmyharris, Lakes in the Jura region by rosmary , The North Aqueduct, Fréjus by TyB ,Gorge du Verdon by Allie_Caulfield , La Bastide du Parfuneur by Smellyblog

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Roadmap to the Riviera – a drive from Nice to Monte Carlo

Mark — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 12:00:32 +0000

Today’s sponsored post takes us on a driving tour of the French Riviera from the food specialities of Nice, through the town of Eze, home of the perfume industry with winding paths overlooking the sea, ending your journey overlooking the nightime harbour lights of Monto Carlo.

The south of France is known for its ability to overwhelm the senses. If Europe were the brain, then Provence and the French Riviera would be the pleasure center, assaulting the senses with dazzling beauty, sweet lavender breezes, sumptuous cuisine, and a hot terracotta sun.

Market in Nice

An ideal way to take in the region is to cruise the coastal roads by car making your way from Nice to Monte Carlo. The area is a playground for the rich and famous and you will catch glimpses of awe inspiring villas and yachts along the way.

Nice is the most famous city in the area and there is an abundance to do here ranging from hitting the beaches to sampling Niçoise food. For me the food is truly the highlight as the small pastry shops offer delectable morsels at prices that won’t break the bank. If you’re lucky enough to travel to Nice at Carnival time (18 Feb – 8 Mar) the local food vendors bring their shops out into the streets and sell their specialties amongst the parades and celebrations.

Once you’ve had your fill of Nice and all it has to offer, hit the road and take the coastal road (motorway D6098) to Monte Carlo. There is plenty to see and do along this route. The road will take you through the gorgeous village of Villefranche-Sur-Mer and provide views of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat which is a peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean. It is littered with estates owned by both celebrities and royalty alike and often referred to as the “Crown Jewel” of the Riviera.

Eze , town of winding walkways

One of my favorite detours is the village of Eze. This town of winding walkways cascades from a scenic overlook down to the coast. Eze is primarily known for the thriving fragrance industry and you can tour many of the facilities and sample the perfumes and colognes. There are also museums that document the genesis of the perfumeries in the area for those that are interested.

Monaco Harbor

Eze is only a 15 minute drive from Monte Carlo and there you can explore the Grimaldi Palace and of course place some wagers at the infamous Monte Carlo Casino. People watching along the harbor in Monaco is the perfect way to wind down the day and you can watch as the lights from the yachts light up the harbor as the sun dips below the horizon. What a way to spend a day!

Wes Davidson has been working in the travel industry for ten years and is a travel writer for Auto Europe, one of the leading providers of car rental in Europe. He encourages you to use Auto Europe for your car rentals in France and car rentals in Paris.

More things to enjoy in France

The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Inside the glacier – at the Mer de Glace above Chamonix
Gone fishing for crabs on the Ile de Houat – in Brittany, France

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Our autumn break at Berny-Rivière with Eurocamp – video

HeatherCowper — Thu, 06 Jan 2011 23:29:58 +0000

Last Autumn, I spent a 4 day half term break with my family with Eurocamp at the holiday parc of La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny-Rivière, in northern France quite close to Paris – read on for my account of our holiday and review of the parc.

As a child, our family summer holidays were spent camping in different European countries each year. Like many families of that generation, camping enabled my parents to have an affordable budget holiday while enjoying some sunshine and exploring Europe. We would squeeze our tent and everything else into the car, pack as few clothes as possible and cook all our own food on a single gas burner. Our big treat was to have an ice cream every day.

Lake at La Croix du Vieux Pont

Move on 30 years and how things have changed! The family campsites that we stayed in as children have transformed themselves into holiday parcs, offering every entertainment under the sun. The average family now wants the tent put up for them or to walk into a mobile home where they can expect all the conveniences they enjoy at home. Companies like Eurocamp have set up bases in these parcs throughout Europe, with couriers on site to greet their guests, and now offer tents, mobile homes, chalets and even apartments in certain resorts. Now you can have the outdoor life and family fun without having to rough it in the slightest.

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When our children were younger we stayed on a number of these parcs either with our own tent, or renting chalets on site and had found them ideal as a base for a family holiday. Our children could roam freely around the parc without us worrying about them going too far astray and they would quickly make friends with other children of their own age. We would choose a parc in a region or close to a city we wanted to visit and then divide our time between seeing the sites and swimming and relaxing at the parc. We managed to see the sites of the Dordogne, Barcelona, Granada and Venice in this way, with manageable amounts of sightseeing and the promise of the pool or the beach in the afternoon.

Our Eurocamp Mobile Home at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny-Rivière

This autumn we had the opportunity to try something a bit different from the summer holidays of the past; an Autumn break near Paris with our two teenagers at La Croix du Vieux Pont near Berny-Rivière in the Aisne region of France. Our 4 day break was to be in one of the Eurocamp Superior Mobile Homes, which were as nicely fitted out as any holiday apartment that I’d stayed in. The parc of La Croix du Vieux Pont is well established and our mobile home was neatly laid out next to others, along a road with dividing hedges, a parking space and an area of lawn.

Inside we found a sitting area with cushions and an expandable table, with an adjoining kitchen which had everything that you might expect at home such as a proper oven, microwave and plenty of kitchen equipment. Outside was a deck with chairs and sun loungers, a BBQ and sun umbrella, although as it was the end of October, it would have been a bit keen to start firing up the barbie.

Our Eurocamp Mobile Home at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere

The master bedroom had a double bed with plenty of cupboard space, a desk and even a wired-in hair dryer. There were also 2 smaller cabin bedrooms suitable for children, one with 2 single beds and the other with a bunk bed, both with wardrobe space. The bathroom with sink, shower and toilet was next to the master bedroom and there was even a CD player with i-pod dock and a gas fire to keep the place cosy. The only concern we had was that at the end of October the nights were chilly and once the small gas fire was turned off turned off, the temperature dropped rapidly – some electric heating would have been welcome for low season visitors.

Our Eurocamp Mobile Home at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere

The parc at La Croix du Vieux Pont is well established and organised with a very wide range of amenities and entertainments on site. There is a shop with everything you might need, a bar with upstairs games room and internet area that was a popular haunt for older children, and a traditional French restaurant, as well as a take-away pizzeria. There was an indoor family pool with water slides that was open when we were there, as well as several other outdoor pools that are open in the summer season. The other great attraction of the parc is the large lake with fishing, canoes and pedalos to hire and a smaller lake with a sandy ‘beach’ surround with a cafe next to it. There are also plenty of sports facilities, cycle hire, a beauty spa and many different childrens’ activities organised by age group. While we were there at October half term, there were plenty of activities such as climbing and abseiling available to entice our teenagers.

Our Eurocamp Mobile Home at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny-Rivière

Our Eurocamp Mobile Home at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere

You could definitely have a great Eurocamp holiday without ever leaving the parc at La Croix du Vieux Pont, but being more adventurous travellers we used the parc as a base from which to explore the surrounding region of northern France and the attractions of Paris and Disneyland. Here’s how we spent our 4 days at the parc;

On the first day, after driving down from Calais the day before, we just wanted to relax and explore the parc. We wandered around the lake and had a look around the village of Vic-sur-Aisne with it’s pretty Chateau and military cemetery. There were several small shops, a couple of boulangerie and a few bars and restaurants that we eyed up for a future visit.

Parade at Disneyland Paris

On the second day, we drove to Disneyland Paris – there is also an organised coach trip from the parc but it was not going on the day we wanted to visit and we knew that there would be plenty of parking at Disneyland resort. The children were really excited as we had never been to Disneyland and we had a supercalifragilistic day trying out as many rides as we could fit in, exploring all the different Disney lands and watching the parade at the end of the day.

The next day, we drove north towards Arras and Cambrai, where my husband, who is a former tank commander, was keen to show us some of the battlefields of this area that was hard fought over during the First World War. We had a driving tour of the battle of Cambrai, visited the small but beautifully maintained graveyard near Arras where my husband’s great-uncle is buried after being killed in action in 1917, and took a tour of the Canadian war memorial at Vimy Ridge, with one of the student guides.

Eiffel tower, Paris

On the final day, we took advantage of the coach trip that is organised from La Croix du Vieux Pont to visit Paris, and were very pleased we hadn’t attempted to take the car. As the children hadn’t visited Paris before, our first stop was to climb the Eiffel tower and then we walked along the banks of the Seine and spent the afternoon at Musee d’Orsay enjoying the impressionist paintings.

We crossed over the river and walked through the Tuilerie gardens, catching some late afternoon sun on the deckchairs by the boating lake before returning to our coach, and a welcome nap on the drive back to the parc.

I’d highly recommend this kind of holiday with Eurocamp for families with children of all ages and thought that La Croix du Vieux Pont was particularly suitable for those with school age and teenage children, with plenty of activities to keep everyone happy. It’s also a great way to explore the sites of the region, while being based in beautiful rural surroundings, yet having plenty of amenities on your doorstep. In spring and autumn, these parcs are also great for those without children who enjoy the outdoor camping lifestyle, but can stay in the comfort of a mobile home. They also make a great stop off for a few days for those who like to tour around from region to region, as Eurocamp also offers the flexibility of short breaks.

Chateau at Vic-sur-Aisne

Information and resources for visitors

We stayed at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny-Riviere as guests of Eurocamp, but a 5 night family break like ours, staying in October half term in a 3-bed Superior Mobile Home would typically cost around £450 including linen, towels, welcome pack and the Dover-Calais ferry crossing.

La Croix du Vieux Pont is around 250km from Calais, and takes approximately 3 hrs to drive.

The parc is around 1hr 30 mins drive to Disneyland Paris and around 1hr 45 min drive to Paris, although you don’t have to drive as regular day trips by coach to both locations operate from the parc. Visits to the battlefields around Arras and Cambrai, such as the Canadian memorial at Vimy are around 1hr 45 mins drive from the parc but are an ideal stop on the route to or from Calais.

Holidays at La Croix du Vieux Pont may be booked through Eurocamp, where you can find more details of all the parc facilities and entertainments on offer.

Read about what we enjoyed on this holiday

Postcard from the military cemetary at Vic-sur-Aisne
Our supercalifragilistic day at the magical kingdom of Disneyland, Paris
The Eiffel tower – icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Visiting our great uncle’s grave at Arras – thoughts for Armistice day
Visiting the Canadian War memorial at Vimy Ridge

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Eurocamp at Berny Riviere, La Crouix du Vieux Pont photoset

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Where Heather travelled in 2010

HeatherCowper — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 00:08:39 +0000

As one year ends and another begins, I review my travelling year at Heather on her travels and highlight the places I’ve visited and things I’ve enjoyed. What’s on my New Year list? Seeing some more of Scandanavia, back to visit my sister on Zakynthos, some explorations of northern Egypt with a friend who’s in Alexandria (avoiding pyramids at all costs), hunting out more hidden corners of England and any other interesting opportunities that come my way. Here’s what I enjoyed in 2010;

January brings a stay at the Mandarin Oriental and tea at Kensington Palace

January and February are the dreary months weatherwise in England but there’s still plenty to enjoy in London, where many museums and galleries are free and indoor attractions come into their own. I was brought up in London often popping back to visit my parents, and I spent a delightful weekend with my daughter at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Hyde Park, where we were treated like princesses, ate Princess Diana’s favourite crab cakes and went shopping at Top Shop on Oxford street, that favourite of teenagers. A little later in the month and I was back in London to meet a friend, when we spent the day at Kensington Palace, admiring Princess Diana’s frocks, encountering a former palace resident, the Countess of Marlbrough and treating ourselves to afternoon tea at the Orangery.

Read the articles
To Kensington Palace and tea at the Orangery
A suite for a princess at the Mandarin Oriental – video
Affordable Luxuries at the Mandarin Oriental
Weekend at the Mandarin Oriental – podcast

Entrance at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London

February – and we’re nearly snowed in at our Welsh country cottage in the Brecon Beacons

In a contrast to city life we got a breath of fresh air in February in the half term holidays when we found a cosy Welsh cottage in the Brecon Beacons. My thoughts of spring sunshine and daffodils were lost in a fall of snow that almost threatened to maroon us half way up the mountain, even though the fields around Crickhowell at the bottom of the valley were still grassy green. The children loved our snowy break with walks along the quarry tracks on the slopes above our cottage, making snow angels and sliding in the snow down the steep hillside.

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A snowy break at Laswern Fawr holiday in the Brecon Beacons, Wales

Snowy sheep at Laswern Fawr cottage, Nr Crickhowell, Brecon Beacons, Wales

March – and we take a creative break in Manchester

You may think that Manchester is all about nightlife, football and shopping, but I discovered Manchester’s arty side on a weekend break hosted by Creative Tourist, staying at the stylish, modern MacDonald Hotel, Manchester. We observed Manchester’s industrial past proudly on display and buzzed around on the new Metrolink that took us out to Salford Quay to seek out the pictures of LS Lowry, Manchester’s favourite son and the moving Don McCullin Images of War exhibition at the Imperial War museum just opposite. We completed our whistlestop exploration of Manchester’s museum scene with a close up of the Mona Lisa, naked as you’ve never seen her before (well without her varnish anyway). Before we left we just managed to fit in a Sunday morning stroll around the Northern Quarter, all vintage and street-art. I’m looking forward to being back in Manchester in March for Travel Bloggers Unite.

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Up close with the Mona Lisa at MOSI in Manchester
Getting to know LS Lowry at The Lowry in Manchester
Shaped by war – Don McCullin at the Imperial War Museum in Manchester

The Lowry Arts Centre in Manchester

April when we stay at a Cotswold Country Inn and take a dip in the Roman Baths

A weekend break in the country drew us out of Bristol again with a promise of picture perfect pale stone Cotswold loveliness. The Kings Head Inn at Bledington, proved charmingly English, set on a village green complete with babbling brook and quacking ducks, with views over the fields from our bedroom window. We tramped across the muddy fields to Stow on the Wold for tea, but returned in time to have supper by the open fire in the bar. Later that month I was in Bath, showing my daughter’s French exchange friend all the tourist sites, including some I’d never seen such as the Roman Baths which are a must see for any visitor. Sometimes you have to be a tourist in your own back yard.

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Cotswold country charm at the Kings Head Inn at Bledington – Video
Fancy a dip at the Roman Baths at Bath?

The Roman Baths in Bath

May – and we seek the sun on the Greek island of Zakynthos

In May I finally got the sunshine I was longing for in our annual visit to my sister who runs the Windmill Studios Hotel and Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi with her Greek husband Denis. We’d seen plenty of things over the 20 years we’ve been going but still managed to find a few we hadn’t tried yet, like the a visit to the Monastery of St Denis, the island’s patron saint, with a quick stop to photograph the famous Smuggler’s cove at Navagio. We also loved the day we spent on a boat trip around Laganas bay, known for it’s loggerhead turtles. We didn’t spot any turtles this time but we had a great time jumping off the boat and swimming in sea caves in the refreshing turquoise water.

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Visiting St Denis Monastery on Zakynthos – in Greece
13 Zante – my Greek island holiday – podcast
A turtle spotting boat trip on Zante – in Greece

In Zante town harbour, Zakynthos, Greece

June and we’re going underground into Churchill’s London war-rooms

I was back in London with my son to visit my parents and we spent an afternoon visiting the Churchill war rooms, near Horseguard’s Parade. It was a facinating glimpse of the war operations conducted here by Churchill in his secret underground bunker, with offices and sleeping quarters for Churchill and large numbers of his war staff, and war maps and telephones still laid out, as well as a museum devoted to Churchill’s life. This is a London attraction that deserves to be better known, especially for those interested in history, and could be combined with a visit to nearby Buckingham Palace, St James Park and Horseguards Parade.

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Into Churchill’s underground bunker – Churchill war rooms in London

Churchill War Rooms in London

July – we make a pilgrimage to Altötting and see the passion play at Oberammergau

July was a special month as we took a trip to Bavaria in Southern Germany, to see the famous Passion play at Oberammergau. The Passion Play only takes place every 10 years and has been performed by the residents of the Bavarian Town since 1632, when they made a vow to perform a passion play if the village was spared the plague that was then ravaging Germany. The play is performed in a modern auditorium, with an extremely professional production of choral singing telling the dramatic story of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ. Afterwards we were also able to wander around the town itself to see the painted houses and wood carvings against the backdrop of stunning Alpine scenery. We also stayed for a couple of days in the pilgrimage town of Altötting, where we saw the small shrine of the Black Madonna in the town square, as well as the many other beautiful churches in the town, and hired bikes to seek out the badesee or local swimming lake.

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12 Oberammergau Passion Play and Altötting in Bavaria – Podcast
A pilgrimage to see the Black Madonna at Altötting in Germany
Painted houses and wood carving at Oberammergau – in Bavaria, Germany

Pilatus House in Oberammergau in Bavaria, Germany

July in Malaga – seafood on the beach on the Costa del Sol

Later in July I flew to the south of Spain to stay with a friend at Benelmadena near Malaga on the Costa Del Sol. This is a region of Spain that’s full of British expats and beloved of the English package holiday makers as well as many Spanish families on holiday, and as a consequence the coastline has been highly developed in recent years. We spent our time eating seafood in the many beach restaurants known as Chiringuitos and escaped for a day into the hills behind Marbella to visit the pretty village of Ojén, one of the many Pueblos Blancos or white hill villages that you can visit in Andalucia.

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A visit to Ojén – the Pueblos Blancos of Andalucia
Gaudi glitz at the Puerto Marina – Benalmadena, Spain
Seafood on the beach at the Chiringuito in Spain

Sardine barbeque on the beach at Fuengirola

August – and we head for Hungary for a family holiday in Budapest and Lake Balaton

For our family holiday we headed for Hungary, spending a couple of days in Budapest before driving to Lake Balaton, a large freshwater lake that’s a very popular holiday destination for Hungarians and Germans. In Budapest we drove out to Memento park to see enormous statues that had been preserved from Budapest’s communist era, climbed up to the Fisherman’s bastion and went for a swim on Margaret Island. On the Southern shores of Lake Balaton, we based ourself at the friendly Hullam Hostel in Révfülöp and visited the castle at Sigliget, the palace at Keszthely and floated among the water lilies in the thermal lake at Heviz, as well as taking a ferry trip across the lake to the busier resorts on the southern shore.

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Thermal springs and rubber rings at Hévíz – in Hungary
The Festetics Palace and the marzipan museum at Keszthely – in Hungary
Memento park – Icons of Budapest’s communist past

At Memento Park near Budapest

September – far a walking break in the French Alps on the Tour de Mont Blanc

As the summer holidays finished I took an early September break with my friend Julia to walk in the mountains above Chamonix on the Tour de Mont Blanc Trail. This long distance circular path normally takes 12 days to walk through the mountains of Switzerland, France and Italy around the Mont Blanc mountain range, but we did a cut down mini-version in 3 days. We hiked up above the Chamonix valley, staying in basic mountain huts, with amazing views of Mont Blanc on the opposite side of the valley, visiting the glacial Lac Blanc and the ice cave in the Mer de glace at Montenvers. We enjoyed the experience so much that we’re already planning to go back in 2011 to walk another section of the Tour de Mont Blanc trail.

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Inside the glacier – at the Mer de Glace above Chamonix
Video diary – walking the Tour de Mont Blanc path above Chamonix
Day 3 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flégère to Lac Blanc

At the start of our walk in Les Houches on the Tour de Mont Blanc

October – family fun in northern France, near Paris

At October half term we took a family break in Northern France with Eurocamp, staying at La Croix du Vieux Pont parc at Berny Riviere. We stayed in a mobile home on this parc that has plenty to keep families busy with an indoor swimming pool, boating and fishing on the lake, cycling and a bar and restaurant on site. We used the parc as a base from which to explore northern France, with a day trip to Paris for the obligitory climb up the Eiffel Tower, a visit to Disneyland Paris and time to explore some of the First World War battlefields such as the Canadian Memorial at Vimy Ridge that mark this region of France.

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Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris
The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Visiting the Canadian War memorial at Vimy Ridge, France

Halloween in Frontierland at Disneyland, Paris

November and I link up with other travel bloggers at TBEX in Copenhagen

In November I was off to Copenhagen to attend the Travel Blog Exchange or TBEX conference in Copenhagen staying in the cosy Avenue Hotel. The conference was held in the amazing Wallmans Cirkus, an old circus building that now hosts a dinner and caberet show in the evening but was used for the conference activities in the day. I was a speaker at the event on Using images effectively for your blog, and enjoyed other highlights such as the SEO skit, listening to other speakers, special events such as the tour of the Georg Jensen Silver Workshops and eating in some great restaurants. I didn’t spend as much time as I’d like seeing Copenhagen itself, so I’m hoping to get back again some time in 2011 to explore the city more thoroughly.

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Burning the midnight oil – my TBEX Copenhagen diary
TBEX Copenhagen – what were the highlights for you?
Cosy up in Copenhagen at Avenue Hotel

Heather presenting at TBEX

December – it’s Christmas!

I took a breather from travelling in December and spent the time getting into the Christmas spirit, buying presents, hanging the Christmas decorations from around the world, and generally preparing for our typically British festivities with turkey and all the trimmings. I hope you also had a very happy Christmas and here’s looking forward to more exciting travels for us all in 2011.

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Join me for a traditional English Christmas dinner
A terribly British Christmas
A very Happy Christmas from Heather on her travels

Trifle and Christmas pudding

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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Celebrate la Bonne Année in Paris at New Year

Mark — Mon, 13 Dec 2010 07:00:44 +0000

If you’re looking for a fun way to spend this New Year’s Eve, my sponsored post from Charlotte McCullogh will give you ideas of how the Parisians celebrate, with fireworks over the Eiffel tower, un verre de champagne and seasonal treats such as fois gras and pralines.

Paris is one of the most colourful, exciting and effortlessly stylish cities to be in when welcoming in the New Year and if you are lucky enough to be in ‘The City the Light” on 31st December here are some ways to ensure you enjoy the very best of a “Bonne Année!”

Celebrate New Year's Eve in Paris at the Eiffel Tower

Many visitors to the city choose to spend their New Year’s Eve celebrating at the more popular venues such as the Eiffel Tower and Champs-Elysees. The element of spending New Year in such an iconic setting can, for some, be well worth jostling through the large crowds and the view of the Eiffel Tower as it glitters with lights at midnight is certainly not a sight to miss.

Happy revellers often take champagne and plastic flutes to enjoy a toast at the stroke of the New Year. Not best advised for those who don’t enjoy getting very close to strangers and having champagne spilt on them, however for those you don’t mind, this is thoroughly enjoyable way to spend New Year in happy interaction with those around you.

There are many fireworks displays around the city that can be seen from the vantage point of the Champs-Elysees or for a fantastic view head to The Sacre Coeur Cathedral plaza in Montmartre which due to its elevated position has views for miles around. Do note that it is not illegal for people to set off fireworks in the street, this can seem a little shocking for visitors if there are fireworks going off in their proximity.

Champagne for New Year in Paris

When it come to dining in the city on New Year’s Eve there are many fantastic restaurants to choose from, however with prices as much as 200€ a head and restaurants full to bursting seasoned visitors to Paris would recommend avoiding eating out at all. If you are lucky enough to have accommodation that permits it, a novel and enjoyable way to eat on New Year’s eve is to head to one of Paris’ excellent markets and stock up on treats, including fois gras, caviar, papillottes – delicious festive chocolates with fillings such as praline, ganache, hazelnuts or nougat and make your own New Years meal.

Celebrate New Year in Paris

And of course wash it all down with a glass of champagne or Vin Chaud, a hot wine often served at this time of year. For the romantics out there why not turn the concept into a picnic, wrap up warm, grab yourself a blanket and enjoy eating your food amongst the jubilant atmosphere as passers by wish you a Bonne Année! You could even place your very own love lock on the Pont des Artes.

The 1st January after much celebrating the night before, provides the perfect day for exploring the city, although many of the shops and tourist attractions will be closed today, take the opportunity to stroll around Paris and enjoy the world famous sights this fantastic capital has to offer. It might even be the perfect medicine for clearing a slightly delicate head from all the champagne and fine wine from the night before!

The French celebration of St Sylvestre lasts for the entire month of January so don’t be surprised if locals wish you a happy new year long after your New Year’s eve hangover has cleared! Locals exchange bises, small kisses to both cheeks and present each other with cards and presents throughout the month.

Charlotte McCullogh writes for new travel site Simonseeks.com and if you are looking to visit Paris this New Year, you might want to also look at the top rated recommended Paris hotels on Simonseeks, where you can find inspirational travel guides and expert advice.

Photo Credits: Eiffel Tower at New Year by viZZZual.com, Festive Bredele by fred_v , Champagne outside by markhillary

More things to enjoy in Paris

Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris
The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Time to start planning your family autumn break in Paris

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Visiting the Canadian War memorial at Vimy Ridge, France

HeatherCowper — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 22:30:18 +0000

The area of north west France around Arras is the site of countless battlefields, but one that makes a particularly memorable visit is the Canadian War Memorial and visitor centre at Vimy ridge which we visited while on a recent holiday with Eurocamp.

We were slightly lost as we drove through the French village of Vimy looking for signs to the Canadian National Vimy Memorial. Suddenly we spotted a four wheel drive with the Canadian maple leaf on the side. “Follow that car!”, I instructed my husband and it soon led us up a road where pines on either side were set on grassy ground that was strangely undulating. This ground where sheep were now grazing was the spot where on Easter Monday, 1917 all four divisions of the Canadian Expeditionary Force had fought the battle for Vimy Ridge. The uneven ground was the remains of trench systems that had long ago collapsed and the grass grown over them.

Vimy Ridge, near Arras, France

We drew up in the Vimy Ridge visitor centre near a couple of coaches and entered the low red building set among the trees. Inside we wandered around reading the information about what had taken place here at Vimy and at the entrance saw a board with photographs of the fresh young faces of students who were part of the autumn student guide programme, warmly dressed in their green and red uniforms. We watched some of the video playing, describing the renovation project of the white limestone Canadian National Vimy Memorial by Canadian sculptor Walter Seymour Allward. The memorial was completed in 1936 and was opened by King Edward VIII but over the years the wind and rain had taken their toll and so a 3 year renovation project was launch to restore the monument to it’s original pristine glory. They even had to open the quarry in Croatia that had been the source of the original white limestone and the monument was re-dedicated by Queen Elizabeth II in 2007.

Trenches at Vimy Ridge, near Arras,

Vimy Ridge, near Arras, France

As we went outside we wandered through the trench systems preserved with concrete ‘sandbags’ and looked through rifle positions towards the former German lines. At the top of the rise we spotted one of the student guides giving a tour of the grounds and tagged on to the end of it, hoping that we wouldn’t be turned away. The young man was confident and informative as he gave us the facts of the battle and took us around the different parts of the site, ending with a walk through one of the underground tunnels that were used to move soldiers up to the front lines. Unfortunately the tour would only allow 25 people underground as I was the 26th I volunteered to stay above ground, taking photos while the rest of my family went through and saw the different rooms leading off the tunnels.

At Vimy Ridge memorial, near Arras, France

I was so impressed with this young man that I ran after him when the tour finished hoping to shoot some video of him talking about the Vimy battle site, but he was about to take another tour underground and couldn’t stop at that point. The student guides spend 4 months in France, living locally and showing visitors around the site of trenches and tunnels as well as manning the visitor centre. We learned later that there are regular tours around the site that are free and can be booked in the visitor centre.

Vimy Ridge memorial, near Arras, France

After our tour we moved on to the towering Canadian war memorial itself on the high ground just up the road. This ridge was a strategic spot to be fought over as the high ground gives a view over the surrounding countryside. The memorial is build of stark white limestone with twin towers and statues at the base and at the top of each tower, representing the sympathy of Canada for the dead and the desire for peace in the future. On the East side is a large figure of sorrowing Mother Canada, looking out over the Douai plain that was fought over so fiercely, and around the sides of the monument are carved the names of those Canadians killed in France with no known grave.

Vimy Ridge memorial, near Arras, France

Although the terrain was rolling rather than hilly, this piece of high ground was important to be won and the battle of Vimy ridge became a symbol of Canadian unity and achievement due to the way that all four divisions fought successfully together.

What a wonderful opportunity for those Canadian students I thought, to live and work together in France for 4 months in a place where in a different generation at a different time, they might have been the soldiers in those same trenches and tunnels, fighting for this spot of land. What an imaginative way to inspire the students participanting in this scheme with a pride in their nation’s achievements at the same time as educating them in the horrors that war will bring.

If you’ve participated in the Canadian Student Guide program at Vimy or the other monuments in northern France, I’d love to hear how you found the experience. We really enjoyed our visit to Vimy Ridge and our children also found it fascinating to hear the stories and run through the trenches and feel a little of what war is really like.

Visitor Information

Visitor information and hours of Operation at Vimy Ridge

Information about the Canadian National Vimy Memorial

Information about the Student guide program at Vimy and other sites in France

We visited Vimy Ridge while a guest of Eurocamp at the holiday parc at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere. The parc is ideal for a family holiday, set in beautiful countryside and with many sports facilities and entertainments on site. It will take around 2 hrs to drive from the parc to Vimy near Arras, or it would make an ideal stop on the route between Calais and Berny Riviere.

More things we enjoyed in Northern France

The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Visiting our Great Uncle’s grave at Arras – thoughts for Armistice Day
Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Battlefields and cemeteries in Aisne photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?

HeatherCowper — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 12:44:32 +0000

Here’s the thing about the Eiffel Tower. It’s the icon of Paris and can be seen from miles away. It’s on every tourist’s tick list and is the one place you’ll make a beeline for if you’re a first time visitor to Paris.

In general I’m allergic to any place that attracts huge crowds and has ‘tourist trap’ written all over it. The ‘beware of pickpockets’ signs and the African lookie lookie men selling Eiffel Tower key rings, four for for €1, should be enough to get your tourist trap radar beeping.

Eiffel Tower, Paris

But then again, when taking your children to Paris for the first time, you want them to remember the experience. You imagine the discussing it with their friends – ‘What did you do at half term?’ – ‘We went up the Eiffel tower’ – ‘cool’. Or perhaps the conversation would be more like ‘we went up the Eiffel tower’ – ‘oh we went there last year, how long did you have to queue?’ At least we could tick the box and then move on to something more authentic like sitting in a nearby cafe with an expensive coffee and baguette.

Eiffel Tower, Paris

We had one day to get a taste of Paris on a day trip from our 4 day break with Eurocamp. Luckily the holiday parc of La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere, laid on a coach trip which was cheaper than taking the train and a good deal more stress free than any other transport option. We decided that first thing on our list to visit should be the Eiffel Tower.

First decision on arrival – take the lift to the 2^nd or 3^rd floor or attempt the walk up. Your strategy will be influenced by your budget, the length of the queues for the lift and how fit you’re feeling. Our strategy was to take the lift to the top and then walk down. We joined the queue for the lift and filtered through a security check to the lift that whisked us up to the 2^nd floor. We decided not to linger here but joined the queue for the separate lift to take us right up to the 3rd floor at the top. Finally around an hour later we were there and took in the 360 degree views from the top, first from the heated enclosed platform with flags all around it, indicating the directions of different countries in the world, next from the windy upper platform. Amazingly there was a toilet right at the top, and of course we made full use of it just ‘because it’s there’. Apparently there’s also a champagne bar up there for that romantic moment with your beloved, but obviously not a stopping off point for us with teenagers in tow.

Next we binned out of the strategy to walk down (it seemed an awful long way) and just took the lift down again to the 2^nd floor. There we had a proper look around, ventured into the information area and cafe where there were a few information boards about. I also noticed that there were i-pads to rent there for €7 per hour to find out more about the Eiffel Tower and the different sights around Paris that can be seen from the top.

View from the Eiffel Tower, Paris

Next we descended to the 1st floor where there were some interactive exhibits but by then we were ready to move on so we didn’t stop too long. I did leave with the impression that there was a missed opportunity to give lots more information and inspiration about the Eiffel tower when you’re actually there, although we probably didn’t make the most of what was there onthe 1st floor. I don’t even remember getting any leaflet with my ticket telling me all that was on offer on the tower. Looking at the website now, I see that there’s actually loads of information there, so if you’re visiting with children, I’d take a look at some of the online resources to get into the mood before you go.

For me I can’t say I felt the magic, it was more of a tick in the box, but after experiencing similar crowds at the Pantheon and the Colisseum in Rome when I visited with my son, I suppose I should know better by now.

So, if you’ve visited the Eiffel Tower, how was it for you? Did you feel the romance of Paris or get put off by the queues?

Visitor information

Take a look at the Eiffel Tower website in advance for information and downloadable resources to prepare for your visit.
The Eiffel Tower is on the South Bank (Rive Gauche) of the Seine, and the nearest metro isChamp de Mars-Tour (Line C)
Details of entrance fees are available on the website and at the time of writing are €13.50 for elevator to 3rd floor, €8.50 for elevator to 2nd floor, €4.50 for stairs to 2nd floor with reduced prices for youths and children.
From the banks of the nearby river Seine, you can take a Batobus (river bus) or walk along the bank to many of the other sightseeing stops such as the Louvre, Hotel de Ville, Musee D’Orsay and Notre Dame.
We visited Paris while a guest of Eurocamp at the holiday parc at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere. The parc is ideal for a family holiday, set in beautiful countryside and with many sports facilities and entertainments on site. The parc is around 1hr 15 mins from Paris and coach trips are arranged from La Croix du Vieux Pont, making it easy to spend a day in Paris as part of your family holiday.

Other adventures in Paris

Our Supercalifragilistic day at the Magical Kingdom of Disneyland Paris
Time to start planning your family autumn break in Paris

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Paris photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Visiting our Great Uncle’s grave at Arras – thoughts for Armistice Day

HeatherCowper — Thu, 11 Nov 2010 21:00:56 +0000

While on holiday in Northern France we visited the grave of my husband’s great uncle, buried close to the trench where he fought and was killed in 1917 at the height of the First World War. Crump Trench British Cemetery is a modest kind of place, tucked down a muddy track with the motorway running within sight and adjoining an orchard of newly planted trees. We found the place easily enough, following the Commonwealth War Graves Commission signs from the nearest village of Fampoux.

Crump Trench Cemetery, nr Arras, France

While visiting family graves may not be a typical holiday past-time, I think that our visit to this small cemetery and other landmarks of the Great War such as the Canadian Memorial at Vimy Ridge will remain in my memory and those of my children far longer than our obligatory trip up the Eiffel tower. In fact I’d say it was a highlight of the trip.

War graves at Crump Trench Cemetery near Arras,France

We’d found the exact location of the grave from the website of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, searching on name or regiment, and found our way to the nearest village of Fampoux. As we drove past the traditional red brick houses with steep pitched roofs, we must have passed signs for six or more similar small cemeteries, tucked between the fields and patches of woodlands. When we arrived it was clear that this little tucked away place was far from forgotten. Everything was as neat and well maintained as you’d wish for, with a visitor’s book that showed that visitors were surprisingly regular and a metal information plaque about the military campaign in which our great uncle had died. On one or two graves there was some token showing that other families like ours had visited to pay their respects.

Crump Trench Cemetery near Arras, France

What was it all for and was the enormous sacrifice worth it? It was supposed to be the war to end all wars. Personally I don’t believe that anything could justify such a death toll, and the terrible grief and tragedy that struck so many families. Others may comfort themselves by feeling that their relatives did what was right for their country. I do believe that by making the personal connection by visiting your relative’s war grave may reinforce the determination to live in peace. I’m thankful that this little corner of a foreign field is not forgotten by our generation, nor by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission who keep up these cemeteries so beautifully.

We visited the landmarks of the first world war in Northern France, while on holiday with Eurocamp, staying at La Croix du Vieux Pont Holiday Parc at Berny Riviere.

This article is posted as part of Photo Friday hosted at Delicious Baby – head over to ward off the evil eye and see the other great photos

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Battlefields and cemeteries in Aisne photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris

HeatherCowper — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 21:56:16 +0000

On fine autumn morning the Four Bears (a.k.a Heather and her family) closed the door on their Eurocamp mobile home, and set out across the French countryside for Disneyland, close to the great city of Paris. The sun was shining and there was a dusting of frost on the freshly ploughed fields.

Heather at the Sleeping Beauty Castle, Disneyland Paris

As they motored along, Daddy bear was day-dreaming of country walks and a warming bowl of cassoulet, but the teenage bears were very excited about their first trip to the Disney magical kingdom. Princess bear had even put on her pretty bridesmaid hairband to look her best for the occasion, just in case she happened to meet a handsome prince.

“What will we find at Disneyland?” asked Daddy bear? “Duuh, it’s Disneyland, silly” said the teenage bears in the back of the car. “But will it be fun at Disneyland? ” persisted Daddy bear. “Everyone has fun at Disneyland!” chorused the junior bears. “And which of your friends have been to Disneyland?’”asked Daddy Bear conversationally. “Everyone”, they chanted in unison, “and what did they enjoy there?” – “Everything” came back the reply. Daddy bear reflected on the joys of scintillating conversation with teenagers.

Meanwhile, Mummy bear was hoping the queues wouldn’t be too long or the meals too expensive and had taken the precaution of buying four Quiche Lorraine, even though she knew that le picnic was strictly interdit in the magical kingdom (thankyou for your understanding). She wondered whether they would get the Fast Pass she’d heard so much about and wished she’d had more time to research which of the rides they should try first.

Fanstasyland at Disneyland Paris

They parked the car, jumped on the magic escalators just like at the airport, and filtered through the various gates and checkpoints, pausing only to pay several bags of gold, and finally they were inside the Disneyland Park. Mummy bear had read somewhere that it was better to turn right than left and the little bears had heard that the Toystory rides were great, so they first entered Discoveryland. They worked out the Fastpass system (get a ticket and come back some hours later to get on without queuing) and took one for the Buzz Lightyear Laserblast, then noticed the enormous Space Mountain Mission 2 looming ahead of them, so though they’d better give that a go.

Princess bear insisted on sitting in the front carriage of the rollercoaster to get the full effect but Mummy bear closed her eyes tightly for most of the time, as she had never been on a space mission before. She liked the slow bits when they drifted through the stars but felt a bit sick as the space capsule careered through the universe. Master bear sang a chorus of the Beatles song ‘Let it be’ at the top of his voice through all the scary bits, although whether it was out of fatalism or exhilaration was difficult to tell. It seemed to be over quite quickly and Mummy and Daddy bear staggered slightly as they emerged from the space capsule, although the little bears were bouncing with joy.

Next they went 20,000 leagues under the sea into the Nautilus submarine, passing authentic Victorian furniture, oil paintings and leather bound books, and spotting through the window a gigantic octopus that seemed keen to gobble up the Nautilus with them inside.

The Labyrinth at Fantasyland, Disneyland, Paris

They decided to visit Fantasyland, the pink haven for all little princesses, snow whites and sleeping beauties, with endless thatched cottages, merry go rounds and sweetie shops packed with sugary delights. The happy scene was disturbed only by Cinderella’s horrid stepsisters who ran around in brightly coloured nylon costumes and wigs, berating each other loudly and curtseying to any passing strangers.They climbed the twisty stairs of the Sleeping Beauty Castle with carved stonework and scenes from the fairy story immortalised in stained glass, then stopped for a coffee next to Alice in Wonderland’s curious labyrinth. Drawn inside they found a maze of hedges, taking them past grinning Cheshire cats, smoking caterpillars and a curious tower that they climbed to get a view over the many attractions of Fantasyland.

Buzz Lightyear Laserblast at Disneyland, Paris

By now it was time to return and take advantage of their Fastpass ticket, to enter the Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast ride, which was a lot less scary that the Space Mission rollercoaster. This was all about good old fashioned, shoot-em-up fun with lasers to aim at all the targets they passed, with Buzz Lightyear himself to urge them on with words of encouragement. At the end they were thanked profusely by the three-eyed little green creatures for saving their lives – glad to be of help guys.

Halloween in Frontierland at Disneyland, Paris

Now the bear family crossed the Central Plaza and entered Adventureland through Aladin’s gate, where Mummy bear immediately felt at home surrounded by eastern promise as she’d always wanted to visit Marrakech. But before long the desert landscape changed as they turned left into Frontierland, where the Halloween theme was running riot with fantastical figures and displays made entirely from pumpkins. Slightly overcome with halloween fever, they quickly retraced their steps and feeling that it was time for another big ride headed for the Indiana Jones Temple of Peril where a huge ruined stone temple loomed out of the jungle.

Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, Paris

They queued through the bamboo forest where old canvas tents were filled with pith helmets, wicker hampers and dusty old artefacts packed in straw. Mummy bear had a soft spot for Harrison Ford and rather hoped that he would appear as Indiana Jones and whisk her away in the canvas topped old truck with the bullhorn on the bumper.

As they reached the front of the queue, Mummy bear realised that this was going to be another variation on the terrifying Space Mountain Rollercoaster. As they hurtled around far above the ground, she glimpsed through her half closed eye a vision of Angkor Wat, overgrown with creepers and bamboo and encircled by girders. She felt the rush to her head of upside down gravity as they looped the loop and registered the rush of down and the swoop of up and all of a sudden it was over again. This time Master bear had not enjoyed the roller coaster effect quite so much, and was wearing a look of fixed resignation on his face, so they decided that they’d probably had enough scary rides for one day.

They walked back to Fantasyland, stopping to have their photo taken with Balloo the bear, and ate fish and chips at Toad Hall, ye olde British pub with real old fashioned cobwebs at the window.

With Balloo the bear at Disneyland, Paris

They boarded the rather more genteel train that circled the Disneyland Park at the Fanstasyland station and did the full circuit surrounded by painted wooden panelling, stained glass and brass lanterns. There was a glimpse of the grand canyon full of stuffed animals as they passed Frontierland, and some lights of mysterious happenings deep in the mountain as they passed Adventureland. Mummy and Daddy bear were relieved that this was one ride that didn’t include 360 degree loops or gravity defying drops, although the teenage bears found it very tame.

Train at Disneyland, Paris

As they converged on the Central Plaza, a show was in full swing with Minnie Mouse cooking something up with Ratatouille the rat, but they pressed on back towards Main Street. The next hour passed in a blur as they wove in and out of the many shops tempting them to buy piles of stuffed Disney Characters, Minnie Mouse headbands, Snow white costumes and twirly straws. Mummy bear lost count of the number of times that she took out her credit card, for one essential purchase after another while Daddy bear got ever more grumpy and tired. But luckily the nightmare shopping spell was broken by the start of the afternoon parade. They all perked up as the floats came round the Main Street plaza, with one set of Disney characters after another, waving and smiling as if their jaws would break. There were can-can dancers, pirate girls and life size green soldiers all performing their socks off for the appreciative audience. Mummy bear wished that those security men in blue satin bomber jackets would get out of the way of her photos but then her camera battery ran out anyway.

Parade at Disneyland, Paris

Once it was over, they all agreed that they’d had enough magic for one day and that it was time to wend their weary way back to their cottage (mobile home) in the authentic French village of Berny Riviere. What an intensely supercalifragilistic day it had been.

Here’s wishing for many more magical days at the Disneyland magical kingdom!

What else did we do on this trip?

The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Visiting our Great Uncle’s grave at Arras – thoughts for Armistice Day
Visiting the Canadian War memorial at Vimy Ridge, France

Accommodation recommendations

Heather and her family visited Disneyland while staying with Eurocamp at La Croix du Vieux Pont at Berny Riviere, a holiday parc that is ideal for family breaks with plenty of sports and activities on site. The parc organises regular coach trips to Disney’s magical kingdom, so you can relax without taking the car.

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Disneyland Resort Paris photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Hotel Slalom in Les Houches – a boutique hotel for skiers and walkers

HeatherCowper — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 19:53:11 +0000

As we arrive at Hotel Slalom in Les Houches, the English propriétaire Tracey, welcomes us with a cheerful Bienvenue and we step into the breakfast room of this unassuming but stylish small boutique hotel. We’ve chosen it as a base from which to launch into our 3 day walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc Trail above Chamonix, as the village is one of the popular start and end points of the 11 day circular walk.

Hotel Slalom in Les Houches, nr Chamonix

Hotel Slalom is set by the road at the edge of the village of Les Houches, a pretty place with a few restaurants and shops that is a satellite of the much larger and swisher Chamonix, 20 minutes away by bus. With only 10 rooms the hotel is cosy and personally run with a bar area where you can sink into a leather sofa or perch at the bar for a cocktail. In addition to the ground floor bar and breakfast room, there was a little reading corner tucked under the stairs with plenty of books, magazines and DVDs to borrow or use in the bedrooms.

Bar at Hotel Slalom in Les Houches, nr Chamonix

Breakfast room at Hotel Slalon in Les Houches

The hotel operates on a B & B basis with breakfast laid out on the copper topped bar; fresh croissants and baguettes from the boulangerie across the road, with creamy natural yoghurt and reblochon cheese from the local farmer. The hotel doesn’t have a restaurant but we were recommended to try the small Restaurant Le Basilic around the corner where we tried the Savoyard fondue on our first night and on our second visit were defeated by the 3 course set menu, that would have been the perfect end to an energetic day on the pistes. The starter of grilled goats cheese salad was practically a meal in itself and despite my sweet tooth I could only toy with my ice cream desert.

Breakfast at Hotel Slalom at Les Houches

The hotel owner, Tracey, told me how she had left a successful career in the city of London behind, to change direction and run the hotel. She gutted the hotel’s interior and completely remodelled it in a labour of love – at one point in the building work you could see from the ground floor right up to the rafters. Tracey insisted on keeping the authentic wooden bar with polished copper top even though her architect wanted to throw it out, and now it doubles as a serving counter for breakfast as well as the reception desk. The alpine scenery and charming setting haven’t changed though, and you can still throw open your window and washed blue shutters for those mountain views and bracing fresh air.

Bedroom at Hotel Slalom in Les Houches

Hotel Slalom is a haven of good taste – modern but with a nod towards traditional Savoyard style. The rooms are just what you might hope for, with natural materials, carefully chosen furnishings and pretty red and beige quilts and woollen throws in the bedrooms, with charming little touches – a painted dish of sweets or a miniature cactus. Our rooms were a good size, with spacious bathrooms in natural colours, housing a bath tub as well as powerful shower – bliss to soak aching muscles after a day’s walking, climbing or ski-ing. If I was being picky I might have liked to find a hair dryer in my room, or perhaps a slightly more luxurious selection of toiletries than the shampoo sachets and small boxed soap on offer. But having said that, Tracey and her staff were extremely helpful in lending us anything we needed, including the mountain poles I used on our walk, which I embarrassingly managed to break on my way down the mountain.

Bedroom at Hotel Slalom in Les Houches

Bathroom at Hotel Slalom in Les Houches

The hotel is ideally placed to explore the Chamonix valley where there’s plenty to see and do in summer as well as the winter ski season when you can ski to the door of the hotel. All hotels in the area can provide their guests with a free local bus pass in the summer season to get around the valley. Hotel Slalom is a great place to stay in Les Houches if you’re doing all or part of the Tour de Mont Blanc as we did, and a haven to take a rest during your circuit if the basic facilities of the mountain huts are wearing down your enthusism. Tracey can also organise packages with a guide to take you climbing, mountain-biking, white water rafting or any number of other adventurous activities.

I’d highly recommend Hotel Slalom as a well priced, stylish boutique hotel, with extremely helpful and personal service from Tracey and her staff. In the late summer when we visited the room rate was €86-95 for twin or double rooms plus €10 for breakfast.

Hotel Slalom, 44 rue de Bellevue, 74310 Les Houches, Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France, Tel: +33 (0) 450 54 40 60,
Restaurant Le Basilic, 105, Place de la Fruitiere, 74310 Les Houches, Tel +33 (0) 450 54 41 85

Compare prices and book Hotel Slalom in Les Houches with Hotels Combined

Other Tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

Inside the glacier – at the Mer de Glace above Chamonix
Review of Tour of Mont Blanc Guide by Kev Reynolds at Cicerone Press
Day 3 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flégère to Lac Blanc

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds – we found it to be an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route with detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

We stayed at Refuges de Bellachat and la Flegere above Chamonix. Bookings for Refuge de Bellachat can be made only by telephone (04 50 53 43 23) and cost €40 for dinner, bed & breakfast. The cost of staying at Refuge la Flégère was €47 per person for dinner, bed and breakfast and bookings can be made by e-mail bellay.catherine@wanadoo.fr or telephone (04 50 55 85 88 ). To avoid disppointment and a long walk, you should book your place in all refuges but can normally do so a day or two before, or from the previous refuge.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €25 + tax per person each way.

The walkingthetmb website has useful information to help you plan and prepare for your Tour de Mont Blanc walk, with a packing list and some links to other people’s photographs and on-line diaries to inspire you.

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heatheronhertravels’ France – Chamonix photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Postcard from the military cemetery at Vic-sur-Aisne – in France

HeatherCowper — Tue, 26 Oct 2010 18:19:35 +0000

I’m taking a short autumn break with my family in northern France in the Aisne region staying at a holiday parc at Berny Riviere with Eurocamp. We spent the day exploring the holiday parc of La Croix du Vieux Pont, that has two lakes as well as all the sporting facilities you could wish for, and looked around the village of Vic-sur-Aisne with it’s pretty small chateau in the town square.

A drive down to the military cemetery on the edge of town reminded us that this area was on the front line of two world wars, with places like Somme, Cambrai and Arras to be passed on the motorway drive from Calais. The military cemetery here recalls those times, and as my husband is a former tank commander, a visit to Cambrai and to the cemetery near Arras, where his great uncle is buried, is on the cards. It’ll be a reality check compared the trip to Disneyland Resort Paris that we also hope to make while we’re here.

Which would you prefer?

Inside the glacier – at the Mer de Glace above Chamonix

Heather — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 21:01:25 +0000

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to be inside an ice cube? No me neither. But I have often wondered what it would be like to stay in one of those ice hotels they seem to love in Scandanavia. Good for a quick vodka perhaps but I’d rather have a cosy bedroom and a down duvet for a sound night’s sleep. The point of my wonderings is that on the afternoon of our arrival in Chamonix to walk part of the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, my friend Julia and I decided that we would take a little excursion up the mountain to see the famous Mer de Glace glacier and the ice cave that’s carved out of it each year. I guess this was the closest I’d ever get to being inside an ice cube.

Mer de Glace near Chamonix

We started at the picturesque little station ‘Chemin de fer du Montenvers’ on the edge of Chamonix, bought our ticket at the kiosk (€18 one way €24 Allez-retour), and waited for the train to arrive. Through the turnstile we anxiously jostled with other tourists to make sure that we got a good position on the wooden bench seats. The ride to the Montenvers station was not too steep and every so often the trees parted to give us a view across the valley to the peaks on the other side.

As we neared the crest, past the Grande Hotel Montenvers, the view of the glacier opened up before us framed by the mountain slopes. Being more of a tropical flower than a mountain goat, I’d never been near a glacier before and was surprised at how grubby it looked with the grey scree covering the icy surface. We jumped off the little train to let the crowds of descending tourists get in and tried to work out what to do next. Right by the café was a tunnel lined with a small exhibition of quartz crystals so we wandered through looking at the chunks of sparkly rock with details of where each had been found.

Cable car to the ice cave in the Mer de Glace

Grande Hotel Montenvers above Chamonix

We knew that the ice cave we’d come to see was here somewhere and spotted a path which we followed downwards towards the glacier. Every so often we passed a signs telling us that in 1890 this had been the level of the glacier, then in 1920 and so on – a very visible demonstration of global warming, although I thought that global warming had only taken a hold relatively recently, and the glacier had obviously been receding for over 100 years. After half an hour we reached the glacier, only to realise that the small red cable cars we had seen coming and going would have taken us there in only 5 minutes and without the aching knees.

Ice cave in the Mer de Glace near Chamonix

We crossed a metal walkway to a hole in the rather grubby ice and dodging the drips at the entrance were suddenly inside the manmade ice cave. Apparently they hollow out a new cave every year and as we ventured inside we found ourselves in a rather sureal world where the walls and ceiling were made of ice and we were stepping on soggy blue cloths for a carpet.

The ice cave had been made as homely as possible with the hallway leading to a chimney breast with a clock hanging above the mantlepiece and little rooms set into the walls.

Ice cave in the Mer de Glace near Chamonix

The ice cave was lit with lights that changed colour in shades of blue and pink and sofas and easychairs with a coffee table, all carved out of the ice. Perhaps they were trying to recreate the ice hotel idea but all the furniture was slowly dripping away so that you could barely tell what it was meant to be.

I read some information boards that told me that the first visitors (apart from the locals) to visit the Glacier were a couple of young Englishmen in 1741 and that the railway was built in 1910, enabling large numbers of visitors to make the journey up from the valley in relative ease. Since 1946 they had the bright idea of carving a grotto out of the glacier. Each year it’s in a new location as the glacier is constantly moving at the pace of 90m per year and where the work was once done by hand with ice picks there’s now a special machine to carve the tunnels.

Ice cave in the Mer de Glace near Chamonix

On our way back we thankfully took the cable car up to the Montenvers station again, but as we had only bought a single ticket, we were walking all the way down the mountain anyway. It was a really pleasant couple of hour’s walk through forest trails and my only regret was that I wasn’t wearing my hiking boots but only my city style trainers which were not as comfortable and I was terrified of twisting an ankle before we had even begun our walk proper.

If you visit Chamonix I highly recommend a visit to Montenvers and the Mer de Glace – it’s not every day you get to walk right inside a glacier at the height of summer.

You can find more information about the Montenvers train and the Mer de Glace as well as some of the other mountain attractions in the Chamonix valley on the Companie du Mont Blanc website

You can compare prices and book for hotels in Chamonix on Hotels Combined

Heather on her travels » France

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Where Heather travelled in 2010

January brings a stay at the Mandarin Oriental and tea at Kensington Palace

February – and we’re nearly snowed in at our Welsh country cottage in the Brecon Beacons

March – and we take a creative break in Manchester

April when we stay at a Cotswold Country Inn and take a dip in the Roman Baths

May – and we seek the sun on the Greek island of Zakynthos

June and we’re going underground into Churchill’s London war-rooms

July – we make a pilgrimage to Altötting and see the passion play at Oberammergau

July in Malaga – seafood on the beach on the Costa del Sol

August – and we head for Hungary for a family holiday in Budapest and Lake Balaton

September – far a walking break in the French Alps on the Tour de Mont Blanc

October – family fun in northern France, near Paris

November and I link up with other travel bloggers at TBEX in Copenhagen

December – it’s Christmas!

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