Heather on her travels » Greece

Religious art from before the earthquake at Zakynthos Museum – Greece

Heather — Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:17:30 +0000

In 1953 a terrible earthquake struck the Greek island of Zakynthos and reduced the island capital, Zante town to rubble. Across the island churches were left in ruins and many of the important devotional artworks that were recovered were brought to be re-housed in the Zakynthos Museum on Solomos Square.

Zakynthos Museum on Solomos Square

The square is named after the famous Zakynthian poet, Dionysios Solomos, who wrote the words of the Greek National Anthem and is situated at one end of the harbour. On three sides of the square are buildings, one of which is the long frontage of the Museum. It’s an anonymous looking place that could pass for a government office and I’d never been inside because I suppose I was too busy doing what most tourists do on Zakynthos; enjoying my favourite beaches and spotting turtles.

Zakynthos Museum on Solomos Square

However, on my visit last year I had hired a car and driven with my husband to the northern end of the island to see the Monastery of St Dennis, the patron saint of the island. I suppose this spurred me on to take a look inside the Zakynthos Museum where there are a multitude of beautiful religious paintings.

The ‘Museum’ description could cover a multitude of different things, but here you’ll find two floors of religious art from the 17th and 18th centuries. There are entire altar screens from the front of a church as well as many panel paintings and icons of different saints, angels, Madonnas and other religious figures, all in glowing colours and gold backgrounds. It was like walking into a room full of life sized religious Christmas cards, the type that I send to members of my family who prefer to celebrate Christmas as the birth of Christ and not a commercial fiesta of robbins, reindeer and rosy cheeked Santa Claus.

There was also a beautiful room of 17th Century frescos that had been recovered from the Saint Andrea’s Monastery in Volimes on the north of the island that was brought to the museum after the earthquake. Throughout the museum there were many photographs of the devastation of the 1953 earthquake and how things looked before and after the earthquake. I know from visiting the Romas Mansion on the other side of Solomos square that the town was rebuilt on the rubble and so the level of the new town that emerged as about 1 metre higher, and that the coast road that skirts the harbour was extended after the earthquake, where previously many houses had gardens that stretched to the waterfront.

Frescos at Zakynthos Museum on Solomos Square

Unfortunately all of the information accompanying the earthquake photos was in Greek and I wished that there was an English translation so I could understand more about this fascinating aspect of Zakynthos history. In the entrance hall of the museum you can see a model of Zante town as it was before the earthquake where you can trace some of the changes that have taken place.

The Zakynthos Museum is mainly a place for lovers of religious art works but if, like me, you have a family who would rather sit in a café with a frappé or an ice cream, then there are any number of elegant cafes just off the Solomos Square nearby to leave them while you have a look around.

Zakynthos Museum, Solomos Square, Zante town, Greece

More things to enjoy on Zakynthos

Sunday Morning Greek Coffee and Glika in Zakynthos
Wine tasting at Oenolpi Winery on Zakynthos – video
The Venetian Fort at Bohali on Zakynthos

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – Zakynthos Museum photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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A walk in the olive groves on Zakynthos – video

Heather — Tue, 08 Nov 2011 08:00:12 +0000

In the autumn on the Greek island of Zakynthos, the sun is warm but the evenings are cooling and the miniature pink cyclamen are creating delicate dots of colours under the olive trees. In October we visited my sister who lives on the island, after most hotels and restaurants had closed for the season. This is the time when the Greeks, who have been working flat out through the heat of the summer season are ready for a rest and will close their businesses until December, when the locals start partying for the Christmas and New Year celebrations.

A View over Argassi in Zakynthos

This is the season when the Zakynthians turn their attention to their land, as most will own a patch of land near their house, or on another part of the island where they have olive groves or vines to make some local Greek wine. You can smell the woodsmoke in the air as olive branches are pruned and burned in piles. Tarpaulins are spread out under the trees as the branches are beaten to drop the crop of olives to the ground. In each community you may see a shed open up where the locals bring their crop of olives to be pressed for the oil that will keep them going through the year until next autumn.

I hope you enjoy the video below about walking in the olive groves on Zakynthos

If you can’t see the video above, view it on my blog here

This year we walked up behind my sister’s house in Argassi, sometimes on the tracks that are the routes for people to get to their olives and then up a rocky, overgrown area (we’d taken a bit of a wrong turn at that point). It’s best not to go up in the late afternoon as you may have an encounter with a hunter with his shotgun.

Olive trees on Zakynthos

We reached the top of the hill where you can see right over the resort of Argassi, over the roofs of the two hotels that my sister and her Greek husband Dennis own (Windmill Studios and Windmill Bay) and across the bay to Zante town where the ferries and cruise ships go in and out. Next time you’re staying in Greece, feel free to take a walk in the olive groves too, especially if you’re going to be rewarded with a fantastic view like we were.

More things to enjoy on Zakynthos

How to make delicious Greek stuffed tomatoes
The cyclamen bring the autumn on Zakynthos
Friday photo – a hunter’s view in Zakynthos

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – around the island photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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Turtles in danger on Zakynthos – in Greece

Heather — Sun, 23 Oct 2011 13:47:53 +0000

It seems that the future is uncertain for the Caretta Caretta or Loggerhead sea turtles on Zakynthos, as I discovered while visiting the Greek island where my sister lives. Yesterday, I looked in at the Earth Sea and Sky Wildlife Information Centre at Gerakas to have a chat with the director, Yannis Vardakastanis about his efforts this season to preserve the turtles and other wildlife. The Laganas Bay area of Zakynthos is a major nesting site for the turtles, who return here year after year to make their nests on the warm sandy beaches.

Yannis Vardakastanis at Earth Sea Sky Information Centre in Gerakas

But Yannis was not a happy man as he told me how the numbers of turtle nests counted this year have dropped 30% since 2010. Despite having renovated the information centre with attractive traditional Zakynthian stonework, created a new aquarium and continued to educate visitors about wildlife conservation this past year, Yannis was not optimistic about the future of turtles on Zakynthos.

The numbers of loggerhead turtle nests counted by Yannis and his team of volunteers are well down on last year, only 716 in 2011 compared to 1053 in 2010. Yannis showed me the graph of total nests in Laganas bay that has been maintained since 1984 when nest numbers typically ranged between 1000 and 1500, but in the last 5 years the average number of nests has dropped and rarely exceeded 1000. The turtle nest count this year is about as low as it’s ever been. The hatchlings that survive to adulthood will return here to Zakynthos to make their own nests in another 25 year’s time, as turtles always return to the spot that they were born. But if the downward trend continues, Yannis predicts there will be no more turtles on Zakynthos for future generations to enjoy.

Earth Sea Sky information centre at Gerakas on Zakynthos

The numbers of dead and injured turtles was also higher than Yannis would have liked – around 40 this year due to rubbish pollution, getting tangled in fishermen’s nets or being struck by boats. Although boats, apart from the turtle spotting tours, are not allowed in the National Marine Park of Zakynthos, accidents continue to happen and the fishermen often regard the turtles as competitors for their catch and a threat to their livelihood.

The economic crisis in Greece is also a mixed blessing for the turtles. At least the pressure for further building within the conservation area around Laganas bay has abated for a while, since no-one has the money to build hotels near turtles nesting beaches as they did in the past. Yet the government cutbacks mean there are less wardens than in previous years, employed by the National Marine Park of Zakynthos to safeguard the turtle nesting sites. Yannis and his volunteers at Gerakas continue to work with the Marine park to count nests, maintain the natural habitats and keep them clear of rubbish, as well as educating visitors to the area about the turtles on Zakynthos.

Turtle nest on Gerakas Beach in Zakynthos, Greece

At least Yannis is cautiously optimistic about the situation at Gerakas beach, where the numbers of turtle nests are being maintained. Next year, he has plans to expand the information centre further to add an area where rescued and injured turtles can be cared for until they can be released back into the wild. If you’re visiting the lovely unspoiled beach at Gerakas, do look in at the Earth Sea and Sky information centre to learn more about turtle and wildlife conservation on Zakynthos. In the meantime, here’s how you can do your bit while you enjoy your holiday on Zakynthos.

Heather on Gerakas beach on Zakynthos in Greece

Do your bit to conserve the turtles on Zakynthos

Make sure you take all your rubbish home from the beach, especially plastic bags which turtles can mistake for a tasty jellyfish snack.
If you visit a turtle nesting beach, keep well clear of the turtle nests that will be marked and roped off.
Don’t venture onto turtle nesting sites at night or shine any bright lights on these beaches – the hatchlings use the lights reflected off the sea to guide them and may be confused by other lights on the shore.
If you are lucky enough to spot a turtle while swimming, observe them from a distance to avoid them any distress as they can also deliver a nasty bite if you get too close.
If you take a boat tour around Laganas bay, don’t choose an operator that guarantees you a turtle sighting or your money back. This practice encourages boats to seek out and harass the declining numbers of turtles in the bay.
I can highly recommend the turtle-friendly catamaran boat trips organized by Yannis company, Nature World Travel through the summer season where you will enjoy the wonderful scenery, swim in clear turquoise waters and into limestone sea caves and learn about the natural beauty of the area from Yannis and his team, as well as possibly spotting a turtle from the boat.

For more information about the turtles on Zakynthos

Earth Sea and Sky website
Earth Sea and Sky on Twitter
Earth sea and sky on Facebook
Earth Sea and Sky on Youtube
Nature World Travel – Yannis tourism company offering turtle-friendly boat trips and other excursions
Ionian Eco Villagers – Green eco-holidays in Greece – self-catering villas on Zakynthos in the areas of Vasilikos and Gerakas
National marine Park of Zakynthos - the government agency that manages and protects the area around Laganas Bay containing the turtle nesting beaches.

Video about the Catamaran boat trips run by Yannis in Laganas bay

Video interview with Yannis Vardakastanis about the turtles on Zakynthos

If you can’t see the two videos above, view them in my blog post here

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com - Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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Frappé with a view of Zante town

Heather — Sat, 22 Oct 2011 19:32:37 +0000

I’m taking an October break on the Greek island of Zakynthos where my sister lives and where we visit her every year. After some shopping in Zante town we did the typically Greek thing and drove up to the terrace at Bohali next to the Venetian fort where you have a bird’s eye view over Zante town and can survey the harbour. No prizes for guessing why they put a fortress up here to keep an eye out for Turkish invaders.

Cafe terrace at Bohali overlooking Zante town

Although the autumn days are setting in and the burning days of summer are over, we had the typical Greek summer drink of Frappé – chilled miky coffee with froth on top. My sister had a Freddoccino – a chilled cappuchino which tasted as if it had some hazlenut syrup in it – delicious, and this is the premier spot on the island to sit and sip it.

Frappe on the Bohali terrace overlooking Zante town

The coffee may be expensive but on a sunny autumn day like this it was worth every penny for that view.

Greece without the crowds – a late summer holiday on Zakynthos

Heather — Wed, 07 Sep 2011 21:42:02 +0000

If you’re feeling that you’d like to prolong the summer sunshine a little longer, you’ll be jealous of our plans to visit the Greek island of Zakynthos, where my sister lives, this coming October. The late summer and autumn is one of my favourite times of year to visit Zante when the August crowds have gone home and the island starts to breathe again, but the temperature is still warm right through September and October.

Gerakas beach with Turtle nesting sites on Zakynthos

This is the time when the tiny pink cyclamen are in bloom in the olive groves and you can smell the scent of woodsmoke as the piles of olive prunings are set to burn in the fields. You might pass by the local co-operative where the trucks of olives are being brought by all the farmers, so that every family will have their supply of olive oil to keep them going right through the year.

After the August rush the price of your holiday is likely to be a lot lower and you’ll probably find some great holiday deals if you shop around the web. To keep the costs of your holidays down even further, enjoy the simple pleasures of life on a Greek island.

Beaches on Zakynthos

In September and October you can still enjoy a swim in the sea but many of the sun-loungers will have been packed away and you can see the natural beauty of the beaches. As my sister lives in Argassi, we tend to explore the beaches on this side of the island and our favourites are Gerakas, Dafni beach and Porto Zoro towards Vasilikos.

Gerakas is at the south-east tip of the island and the beach is known for its loggerhead or Caretta Caretta turtles that nest on this beach. This area is part of the Marine Park of Zakynthos and so no building is allowed on the beach and sun loungers are limited to a small area away from the turtle nesting sites. We always enjoy a meal at the taverna here and pop in to the Earth Sea and Sky conservation centre next door.

Porto Zoro beach, Vassilkos

Dafni beach is just around the headland from Gerakas and is quite difficult to get to as you need to drive down a steep and winding dirt road – you definitely need a hire car to get there. It’s a long sandy beach with a couple of small beach bars if you want to sit with a drink in the shade.

Out of season my favourite is Porto Zoro as there is a rocky section at one end where you can have fun swimming and snorkeling around the rocky outcrops. Again there are a couple of bars here, one which is more traditional, the other that is catering for the trendy crowd.

Around Zante town

When we visit, we always like to spend some time just wandering around Zante town, looking at all the boats in the harbour and then going up and down the backstreets to find the more interesting bakeries, cafes and shops that the locals use. If you want to people-watch then head down to St Mark’s square, at the harbour end of town to sit on the rattan sofas and sip a chilled coffee frappé.

Harbour of Zante town

Along the main harbour road you can see some of the traditional fishing boats unloading their nets, but if you walk down the long jetty at the end of town you’ll really get away from the hustle and bustle and feel the sea wind set fair for a sail over to the next island of Kefalonia. You may spot some smart jet set yachts or beautiful wooden sailing ships or perhaps dream of taking one of those smaller boats to spend a summer sailing from island to island.

View from the Venetian fort on Zakynthos

The Venetian Fort at Bochali

If you can, head up to the Venetian fort on the Bohali cliff set above the town – it’s a steep climb so make the most of your hire car or take the little tourist train up if you can’t face the walk. The fort was built in the 15th century and when you go through the stone archway, you find yourself inside a compound that was once like a small village. Now you can wander under the pines and see the cannons and remains of the buildings that once stood on the site. Even if the fort is closed, I recommend sitting with a drink in one of the terrace cafes with a fantastic view over Zante town and harbour – it’s a favourite place for the Greeks to come for an early evening drink.

Eating out on Zante

Traditional Greek cooking is very much based on the produce of the island – the tomatoes, olives, local cheese and vegetables. If meat is prepared, it may often be local rabbit, goat or lamb that is cooked slowly in lashings of olive oil. If you’re trying to keep costs down then go for the Mezze dishes where you can share a selection of different plates such as fried whitebait or kalamari, with local dishes such as giant butter beans in tomato sauce and the garlicky tzatziki made from creamy yogurt and cucumber.

Mezze lunch in Zante town

A boat turtle spotting boat trip

If you want to treat yourself to one memorable experience, I’d make it a catamaran trip such as the one that we enjoyed, organised by Yannis from Nature World Travel who run turtle friendly boat trips. We skirted around the coastline, crossed Laganas bay and moored up for some swimming in the crystal blue water near the sea cliffs and sea caves. On the way back across the bay, we kept our eyes peeled for turtles, but unfortunately we didn’t see any as they are become increasingly rare – unlike some boat trips Yannis never guarantees a sighting as he believes that this just leads to the turtles being harassed by the boats.

Catamaran trip on Zakynthos

We had a great day nevertheless, and ended up back at Porta Roma beach at the cafe overlooking the bay. Out boat had plenty of space and a shady area at the back as well as a cabin if you felt the sun was getting too much.

Porto Roma, Zante

We’re looking forward to our late summer break and searching out new corners of the island of Zakynthos, as well as soaking up the sunshine before winter truly sets in. Perhaps we’ll see you there?

More things to enjoy on Zakynthos

The Venetian fort at Bohali on the Greek island of Zakynthos
A turtle spotting boat trip on Zante in Greece
Sunday morning Greek coffee and glika on Zante in Greece

My thanks to icelolly.com for sponsoring this article.

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – around the island photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Family Villa Holidays on a Budget

Heather — Sun, 31 Jul 2011 22:03:22 +0000

Looking for ideas for your next family holiday? This article will give you some destination ideas that are ideal for a family villa holiday that won’t break the bank…

The ideal way to get yourself luxury family holiday accommodation at a price you can afford is to hire a big villa and share it with another family too.

Once you become a parent, you have to accept that some things will never be the same – like how you approach annual holidays. No more leaving things to chance and grabbing a last-minute deal to somewhere exotic. Now it can feel more like an exercise in strategic planning – negotiating children and adults’ holiday expectations, arranging flights that won’t break the bank, or finding enough things to keep little ones entertained on a mammoth car journey can all make the longed-for break seem too stressful to bother with.

But it is still possible to combine a bit of everything in a holiday, with enough variety to satisfy everyone – and renting a villa gives you the opportunity to indulge in a little luxury and give the kids plenty of space to run riot without other guests tut-tutting under their breath. Although the cost of hiring a villa may initially seem high, if you go for a larger one and share the cost with either extended family or friends you’ll be surprised at the value they offer. The kids have mates to play with, you have company too. And you get pool, barbecue, fantastic views and more.

Palma on Majorca

Magic Majorca

Spain is an increasingly popular holiday destination and Majorca may be a sensible choice if you’re travelling with younger children. The largest of the Balearic Islands, Majorca has long sandy beaches and fun-filled waterparks.Aquacity claims to be one of the world’s largest water funfairs, and even has a small zoo and parrot shows to keep non-water babies happy. The Palma Aquarium is home to the deepest shark tank in Europe and holds four different species – blacktip reef, smooth hound, sand tiger and sandbar sharks. Qualified divers can jump in and swim with the sharks, should they so wish, while younger children who have tired of the marine world, can let off steam in the play area or large rooftop jungle garden.

Villas in Majorca come in many different styles, from the traditional finca or farmhouse, to the super modern, so you should find something to suit you. Sharing your holiday with friends with similarly aged children means that the kids will entertain themselves and you can share evening childcare with your friends, giving everyone a chance to have a little quality couple time too.

Villa Tomeu in Pollensa has five bedrooms and sleeps up to ten people, so will give you plenty of space in which to relax. There’s a pool, and grassy terraced areas equipped with a barbecue which are perfect for al fresco dining. Pollensa itself has several bars and restaurants if you are tempted away from the villa, and there are many beaches to explore.

Beautiful Kefalonia

With spacious gardens and barbecue areas, villas in Kefalonia may prove too tempting to leave. But if you do manage to drag yourself away, take the opportunity to visit one of the world’s most beautiful beaches – Myrtos Bay. Just remember to pack sandals as the sand stops at the waterline, and the pebbles can be painful on bare feet. Argostoli Town, Kefalonia’s capital promises a bustling town square, great shops and waterfront tavernas, so would also make a good day trip.

Fiskardo, Kefalonia, Greece

Villa Astria, just outside the picturesque fishing village of Fiskardo, boasts not one, but two pools and enough space to sleep ten comfortably. The smaller pool is perfect for children and there are terraced gardens as well. This villa is separated into the main building and an annexe, so is perfect for two families who want to holiday together but might enjoy a little more privacy.

Cool Corfu

Corfu offers many choices for family holidays, from bucket-and-spade to high action watersports. Head to the north of the island for shallower waters and family-friendly beaches, or the west for sandy beaches and watersports – including pedalos, paragliding, waterskiing or windsurfing.If the kids need some cultural stimulation, take a day trip to the island’s attractive capital Corfu Town which offers lots of shops for souvenir hunting, pleasant café-culture and several interesting museums including the Archeological museum which is stuffed with impressive Roman remains. Head into the interior of the island for complete away-from-it-all countryside and wonderful views out to sea.

Beautiful beaches on Corfu

You’re spoiled for choice with villas in Corfu. If you’re more of a modern family, with children of different ages ranging from young adults to little ones, Triton House in AghiosStefanos may provide the solution. A separate guest house with twin beds would provide older teens with the privacy they seek, while being close enough to enjoy the benefits of a larger villa – including the swimming pool and covered terrace to make the most of those balmy days. AghiosStefanos has bars and a busy harbour with yachts – so get your sailing shoes on and make the most of this seaside holiday.

My thanks for this sponsored post, written by Belinda Weber on behalf of luxury villa holidays specialist Meon Villas. All the villas mentioned above can be found on their website: www.meonvillas.co.uk

Useful links

Meon Villas – the luxury villa holidays specialist
Aqualand water park on Majorca
Palma Aquarium on Majorca

Photo credits: Palma on Majorca by Piutus, Fiscardo, Kefalonia, Greece by sisaphus, Beach on Corfu by mickpix

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Relaxing holidays and Gourmet festivals at Sani Resort in Greece

Heather — Sat, 25 Jun 2011 16:21:17 +0000

Everyone knows Greece is a country full of outstanding natural beauty – and the Halkidiki peninsula is no exception. Its idyllic climate – coupled with relaxing beaches, beautiful scenery and countless activities to satisfy even the most demanding traveller – all make it an ideal location for a holiday.

Beach at Sani Resort in Northern Greece

This is where you can find Sani Resort, a resort that has been family-owned for three generations and which stretches across 1,000 acres, complete with endless golden beaches, crystal clear Mediterranean waters and the ever-present scent of pine from the forests of the Kassandra peninsula.

Bar at Sani Resort in Northern Greece

The resort effortlessly caters to every taste, from those on their honeymoon right through to those with families. That’s because your trip can be as fast-paced or as relaxing as you choose. For families, there is a watersports centre (including sailing, diving and windsurfing), tennis, PADI scuba diving, a fully-equipped fitness studio and the Asterias Sunset Cuisine. For those considering Sani Resort for their honeymoon, you can relax on the beach or explore the natural springs and the olive and citrus groves.

Pool at Sani Resort in Northern Greece

The resort proudly hosts a range of traditional festivals throughout the year. For the food enthusiasts out there, there is Sani Gourmet, a food festival which is focusing this year on “New Greek Cuisine”. In recent years, the festival has become something of a cultural sensation, enabling guests to taste delicious food from the crème de la crème of today’s top Greek chefs, all of whom are well-known and highly distinguished for their culinary experience and passion.

Musicians at Sani Gourmet Festival in Greece

Sani Resort is for anyone who enjoys a combination of nature and comfort. It’s a place to indulge yourself: enjoy a luxurious spa treatment or stroll through the orchard groves during the day and enjoy the delicious cuisine at night. If you have children, they can enjoy the range of activities that are on offer through the Melissa Crèche and Mini Club.

Marina at Sani Resort in Northern Greece

To find out more about the Sani Resort experience, join their Facebook Page. There are already many people talking about their holidays and experiences at Sani Resort on the Page – so whatever you’d like to find out about the destination, you can find it out from the community at www.facebook.com/saniresort

My thanks for this sponsored post to Sani Resort in Northern Greece.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

I feel like (Greek) dancing at the Windmill Hotel – video

HeatherCowper — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 08:17:42 +0000

Sometimes when the February days are grey, you need some sunshine to look forward to and I’m dreaming of some Greek dancing on my next visit to see my sister on the Greek island of Zakynthos.

Greek dancing at the Windmill Hotel, Argassi, Zante

At the Windmill Hotel in Argassi, there’s a Greek night every week when my Greek brother in law, Denis cooks enormous quantities of ribs and chicken legs over the charcoal BBQ. The Greek folk dancers lay on a show that includes all the old favourite tunes (you’ll know them all if you’ve ever been on holiday to Greece), ending with dancing in a ring of fire (don’t try this at home)

If you can’t see the embedded video above, view it on my blog here
Download Greek dancing Windmill Hotel Zakynthos [30MB MP4]
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If you enjoyed this video, check out the others in my Video archive

Although we’ve seen the Greek night practically every year, it never fails to get us in the holiday mood as they get the guests up and dancing, teaching them the steps and leading them in a long line around the swimming pool. Yes, Yes, I know it’s cheesy but these are the happy memories that you bring back from your week in the sun, the memories of dad making a fool of himself and big sis flirting with the handsome Greek waiter.

When I get there in May, I may have to restrain myself from dancing around the swimming pool…

More Greek holiday moments

Is this the best beach in the world? – Navagio on Zakynthos
13 Zante – my Greek island holiday – podcast
Welcome to Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi on the Greek island of Zante

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – around the island photoset

Where Heather travelled in 2010

HeatherCowper — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 00:08:39 +0000

As one year ends and another begins, I review my travelling year at Heather on her travels and highlight the places I’ve visited and things I’ve enjoyed. What’s on my New Year list? Seeing some more of Scandanavia, back to visit my sister on Zakynthos, some explorations of northern Egypt with a friend who’s in Alexandria (avoiding pyramids at all costs), hunting out more hidden corners of England and any other interesting opportunities that come my way. Here’s what I enjoyed in 2010;

January brings a stay at the Mandarin Oriental and tea at Kensington Palace

January and February are the dreary months weatherwise in England but there’s still plenty to enjoy in London, where many museums and galleries are free and indoor attractions come into their own. I was brought up in London often popping back to visit my parents, and I spent a delightful weekend with my daughter at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Hyde Park, where we were treated like princesses, ate Princess Diana’s favourite crab cakes and went shopping at Top Shop on Oxford street, that favourite of teenagers. A little later in the month and I was back in London to meet a friend, when we spent the day at Kensington Palace, admiring Princess Diana’s frocks, encountering a former palace resident, the Countess of Marlbrough and treating ourselves to afternoon tea at the Orangery.

Read the articles
To Kensington Palace and tea at the Orangery
A suite for a princess at the Mandarin Oriental – video
Affordable Luxuries at the Mandarin Oriental
Weekend at the Mandarin Oriental – podcast

Entrance at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London

February – and we’re nearly snowed in at our Welsh country cottage in the Brecon Beacons

In a contrast to city life we got a breath of fresh air in February in the half term holidays when we found a cosy Welsh cottage in the Brecon Beacons. My thoughts of spring sunshine and daffodils were lost in a fall of snow that almost threatened to maroon us half way up the mountain, even though the fields around Crickhowell at the bottom of the valley were still grassy green. The children loved our snowy break with walks along the quarry tracks on the slopes above our cottage, making snow angels and sliding in the snow down the steep hillside.

Read the article

A snowy break at Laswern Fawr holiday in the Brecon Beacons, Wales

Snowy sheep at Laswern Fawr cottage, Nr Crickhowell, Brecon Beacons, Wales

March – and we take a creative break in Manchester

You may think that Manchester is all about nightlife, football and shopping, but I discovered Manchester’s arty side on a weekend break hosted by Creative Tourist, staying at the stylish, modern MacDonald Hotel, Manchester. We observed Manchester’s industrial past proudly on display and buzzed around on the new Metrolink that took us out to Salford Quay to seek out the pictures of LS Lowry, Manchester’s favourite son and the moving Don McCullin Images of War exhibition at the Imperial War museum just opposite. We completed our whistlestop exploration of Manchester’s museum scene with a close up of the Mona Lisa, naked as you’ve never seen her before (well without her varnish anyway). Before we left we just managed to fit in a Sunday morning stroll around the Northern Quarter, all vintage and street-art. I’m looking forward to being back in Manchester in March for Travel Bloggers Unite.

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Up close with the Mona Lisa at MOSI in Manchester
Getting to know LS Lowry at The Lowry in Manchester
Shaped by war – Don McCullin at the Imperial War Museum in Manchester

The Lowry Arts Centre in Manchester

April when we stay at a Cotswold Country Inn and take a dip in the Roman Baths

A weekend break in the country drew us out of Bristol again with a promise of picture perfect pale stone Cotswold loveliness. The Kings Head Inn at Bledington, proved charmingly English, set on a village green complete with babbling brook and quacking ducks, with views over the fields from our bedroom window. We tramped across the muddy fields to Stow on the Wold for tea, but returned in time to have supper by the open fire in the bar. Later that month I was in Bath, showing my daughter’s French exchange friend all the tourist sites, including some I’d never seen such as the Roman Baths which are a must see for any visitor. Sometimes you have to be a tourist in your own back yard.

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Cotswold country charm at the Kings Head Inn at Bledington – Video
Fancy a dip at the Roman Baths at Bath?

The Roman Baths in Bath

May – and we seek the sun on the Greek island of Zakynthos

In May I finally got the sunshine I was longing for in our annual visit to my sister who runs the Windmill Studios Hotel and Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi with her Greek husband Denis. We’d seen plenty of things over the 20 years we’ve been going but still managed to find a few we hadn’t tried yet, like the a visit to the Monastery of St Denis, the island’s patron saint, with a quick stop to photograph the famous Smuggler’s cove at Navagio. We also loved the day we spent on a boat trip around Laganas bay, known for it’s loggerhead turtles. We didn’t spot any turtles this time but we had a great time jumping off the boat and swimming in sea caves in the refreshing turquoise water.

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Visiting St Denis Monastery on Zakynthos – in Greece
13 Zante – my Greek island holiday – podcast
A turtle spotting boat trip on Zante – in Greece

In Zante town harbour, Zakynthos, Greece

June and we’re going underground into Churchill’s London war-rooms

I was back in London with my son to visit my parents and we spent an afternoon visiting the Churchill war rooms, near Horseguard’s Parade. It was a facinating glimpse of the war operations conducted here by Churchill in his secret underground bunker, with offices and sleeping quarters for Churchill and large numbers of his war staff, and war maps and telephones still laid out, as well as a museum devoted to Churchill’s life. This is a London attraction that deserves to be better known, especially for those interested in history, and could be combined with a visit to nearby Buckingham Palace, St James Park and Horseguards Parade.

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Into Churchill’s underground bunker – Churchill war rooms in London

Churchill War Rooms in London

July – we make a pilgrimage to Altötting and see the passion play at Oberammergau

July was a special month as we took a trip to Bavaria in Southern Germany, to see the famous Passion play at Oberammergau. The Passion Play only takes place every 10 years and has been performed by the residents of the Bavarian Town since 1632, when they made a vow to perform a passion play if the village was spared the plague that was then ravaging Germany. The play is performed in a modern auditorium, with an extremely professional production of choral singing telling the dramatic story of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ. Afterwards we were also able to wander around the town itself to see the painted houses and wood carvings against the backdrop of stunning Alpine scenery. We also stayed for a couple of days in the pilgrimage town of Altötting, where we saw the small shrine of the Black Madonna in the town square, as well as the many other beautiful churches in the town, and hired bikes to seek out the badesee or local swimming lake.

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12 Oberammergau Passion Play and Altötting in Bavaria – Podcast
A pilgrimage to see the Black Madonna at Altötting in Germany
Painted houses and wood carving at Oberammergau – in Bavaria, Germany

Pilatus House in Oberammergau in Bavaria, Germany

July in Malaga – seafood on the beach on the Costa del Sol

Later in July I flew to the south of Spain to stay with a friend at Benelmadena near Malaga on the Costa Del Sol. This is a region of Spain that’s full of British expats and beloved of the English package holiday makers as well as many Spanish families on holiday, and as a consequence the coastline has been highly developed in recent years. We spent our time eating seafood in the many beach restaurants known as Chiringuitos and escaped for a day into the hills behind Marbella to visit the pretty village of Ojén, one of the many Pueblos Blancos or white hill villages that you can visit in Andalucia.

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A visit to Ojén – the Pueblos Blancos of Andalucia
Gaudi glitz at the Puerto Marina – Benalmadena, Spain
Seafood on the beach at the Chiringuito in Spain

Sardine barbeque on the beach at Fuengirola

August – and we head for Hungary for a family holiday in Budapest and Lake Balaton

For our family holiday we headed for Hungary, spending a couple of days in Budapest before driving to Lake Balaton, a large freshwater lake that’s a very popular holiday destination for Hungarians and Germans. In Budapest we drove out to Memento park to see enormous statues that had been preserved from Budapest’s communist era, climbed up to the Fisherman’s bastion and went for a swim on Margaret Island. On the Southern shores of Lake Balaton, we based ourself at the friendly Hullam Hostel in Révfülöp and visited the castle at Sigliget, the palace at Keszthely and floated among the water lilies in the thermal lake at Heviz, as well as taking a ferry trip across the lake to the busier resorts on the southern shore.

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Thermal springs and rubber rings at Hévíz – in Hungary
The Festetics Palace and the marzipan museum at Keszthely – in Hungary
Memento park – Icons of Budapest’s communist past

At Memento Park near Budapest

September – far a walking break in the French Alps on the Tour de Mont Blanc

As the summer holidays finished I took an early September break with my friend Julia to walk in the mountains above Chamonix on the Tour de Mont Blanc Trail. This long distance circular path normally takes 12 days to walk through the mountains of Switzerland, France and Italy around the Mont Blanc mountain range, but we did a cut down mini-version in 3 days. We hiked up above the Chamonix valley, staying in basic mountain huts, with amazing views of Mont Blanc on the opposite side of the valley, visiting the glacial Lac Blanc and the ice cave in the Mer de glace at Montenvers. We enjoyed the experience so much that we’re already planning to go back in 2011 to walk another section of the Tour de Mont Blanc trail.

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Inside the glacier – at the Mer de Glace above Chamonix
Video diary – walking the Tour de Mont Blanc path above Chamonix
Day 3 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flégère to Lac Blanc

At the start of our walk in Les Houches on the Tour de Mont Blanc

October – family fun in northern France, near Paris

At October half term we took a family break in Northern France with Eurocamp, staying at La Croix du Vieux Pont parc at Berny Riviere. We stayed in a mobile home on this parc that has plenty to keep families busy with an indoor swimming pool, boating and fishing on the lake, cycling and a bar and restaurant on site. We used the parc as a base from which to explore northern France, with a day trip to Paris for the obligitory climb up the Eiffel Tower, a visit to Disneyland Paris and time to explore some of the First World War battlefields such as the Canadian Memorial at Vimy Ridge that mark this region of France.

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Our supercalifragilistic day at the Magical kingdom of Disneyland Paris
The Eiffel Tower – Icon of Paris or tourist trap?
Visiting the Canadian War memorial at Vimy Ridge, France

Halloween in Frontierland at Disneyland, Paris

November and I link up with other travel bloggers at TBEX in Copenhagen

In November I was off to Copenhagen to attend the Travel Blog Exchange or TBEX conference in Copenhagen staying in the cosy Avenue Hotel. The conference was held in the amazing Wallmans Cirkus, an old circus building that now hosts a dinner and caberet show in the evening but was used for the conference activities in the day. I was a speaker at the event on Using images effectively for your blog, and enjoyed other highlights such as the SEO skit, listening to other speakers, special events such as the tour of the Georg Jensen Silver Workshops and eating in some great restaurants. I didn’t spend as much time as I’d like seeing Copenhagen itself, so I’m hoping to get back again some time in 2011 to explore the city more thoroughly.

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Burning the midnight oil – my TBEX Copenhagen diary
TBEX Copenhagen – what were the highlights for you?
Cosy up in Copenhagen at Avenue Hotel

Heather presenting at TBEX

December – it’s Christmas!

I took a breather from travelling in December and spent the time getting into the Christmas spirit, buying presents, hanging the Christmas decorations from around the world, and generally preparing for our typically British festivities with turkey and all the trimmings. I hope you also had a very happy Christmas and here’s looking forward to more exciting travels for us all in 2011.

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Join me for a traditional English Christmas dinner
A terribly British Christmas
A very Happy Christmas from Heather on her travels

Trifle and Christmas pudding

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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Visiting St Denis Monastery on Zakynthos – in Greece

HeatherCowper — Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:37:45 +0000

Although I’ve been coming to the Greek island of Zakynthos for years, I’d only once visited the monasteries at the rocky northern end of the island, near the village of Volimes, known for its lace making and honey. This year we decided to take a day trip in our hire car and headed up the spine of the island, with the salt flats of Alykes on our right, then turning into the rocky interior where the landscape becomes barren and covered with gorse and wild thyme.

St Denis Monastery or Theotokos Anafonitria, Zakynthos, Greece

We followed the signs to the well known St Denis monastery or Monastery of Theotokos Anafonitria that I had visited on a coach trip some years ago and knew we must have arrived when we found 2 coaches parked beside the snack bars and souvenir shops in the middle of nowhere. There was a heavy downpour as we arrived, so we sat in our hire car for a bit, then ventured inside when the rain had stopped. We managed to time our visit just right, in between a groups of Greek ladies all dressed in black, who were obviously making a devotional visit and a coach load of scantily dressed tourists, all short shorts and strappy tops. Just so you don’t make the same mistake it is considered extremely disrespectful to enter a church in Greece dressed as if for the beach – ladies, cover your shoulders and gentlemen, put on your long trousers!

St Denis Monastery or Theotokos Anafonitria, Zakynthos, Greece

We entered the walled compound through a stone archway, into a pretty courtyard with a defensive bell tower and the small church opposite the arched entrance. The monastery was built in the 15th century and is quite sparse, inside apart from some lovely painted frescoes on the altar screen and a painting of St Denis. There is also an impressive icon of the Madonna and child, that apparently was brought here from Constantinople and after which the church is named. The front of the icon is decked with row upon row of gold rings and earings that must have been donated by faithful pilgrims. St Denis or Aghios Dionysios, was born on the island in 1546 to a wealthy family on the island with connections to the Venetian government of the time, becoming Archbishop of Zakynthos and after his death, was made the patron saint of the island. It’s typical for the Greeks to name their children with saints names, and half the boys on the island must be named Denis, including my Greek brother-in-law.

St Denis Monastery or Theotokos Anafonitria, Zakynthos, Greece

After our wander around, we drove a little further along the road to stop at a second monastery of St Georgios Krimnon, built in a similar style with a courtyard, defensive tower and church inside the enclosure, although this time there were cloisters along one side of the courtyard. The church was closed at the time, so we couldn’t look inside but we were intrigued by the large bells hanging from the olive trees outside. We couldn’t get away without buying some nougat from the old man and his wife manning the roadside stall who was calling everyone to come and buy his fruit, honey and oil with all the persistance and patter of a trader in the bazaar.

Monastery of St Georgios Krimnon near Volimes

Our monastery visits made an interesting stop on a tour of the north of the island, taking in the small town of Volimes that’s famous for it’s lace making, rugs and honey and a photo stop on the cliffs overlooking the picturesque bay of Navagio or Smuggler’s Bay that features on all the guidebooks and postcards.

This article is posted as part of Photo Friday over at Delicious Baby – head over to see all the other Friday Photos here.

More things to see on Zakynthos

The Venetian Fort at Bohali on Zakynthos – Greece
A tour of Romas Mansion – on Zakynthos
Is this the best beach in the world? – Navagio on Zakynthos

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – around the island photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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13 Zante – my Greek island holiday – podcast

HeatherCowper — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 21:17:14 +0000

Podcast 13 in my travel podcast series - I’m taking you on holiday with me to the Greek island of Zakynthos or Zante as it’s popularly known. You’ll hear about how we explored the island, enjoying Greek mezze in Zante town, watched some traditional Greek dancing, visiting ancient monasteries, wine tasting with our friends at Oenolpi winery and a boat trip around Laganas bay that’s known as a protected nesting site of the Caretta Caretta turtles. As my sister lives on Zakynthos, where she runs the Windmill Studios and Windmill Bay Hotel with her Greek husband, we visit her every year and this year we were there in May, which is an ideal time to visit.

Link to audio file

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Turtle boat trip from Porto Roma, Zante, Greece

Shownotes

You’ll hear the sounds of the birds chirping in the background as I describe the view from our room above Windmill Hotel owned by my sister and her husband, with the olive groves and fruit trees and view over the teracotta roofs and across the bay to Zante town.

In Zante town I describe our lunch of typical Greek mezze, in a restaurant by the harbourside. We tried miniature sardines in batter, creamy tsatziki with herbs and spring onions, giant broad beans in fresh tomato sauce, courgettes baked in the oven with oil, stuffed vine leaf dolmades with rice and mint stuffing . After a walk to the end of the harbour to watch the boats coming and going we sat in a trendy cafe, sitting on rattan sofas for our frappé chilled coffee.

You’ll hear the evening of Greek dancing at my sister’s Windmill Hotel, where the traditional Greek dancers do their floor show and then get all the audience dancing around the swimming pool and my nephews and the barman did a show of their own.

Monastery near Volimes, Zante, Greece

Mezze lunch in Zante town

I walked around the vegetable garden that my sister’s Greek mother-in-law maintains with fruit trees, especially oranges and lemons, a poly tunnel with tomatoes, as well as courgettes, onions, beans and garlic as well as keeping chickens and rabbits for eating and eggs. She makes delicious traditional dishes from the produce such as these Greek stuffed tomatoes.

We visited Oenolpi winery to meet up with Christina-Maria and Timothy who we met last year and made a video of our wine tasting – Christina tells us why, although she grew up in Athens, she finds she’s even busier running a business on Zante, but why she feels she has a better quality of life surrounded by nature in the vineyards.

With Christina-Maria and Timothy at Oenolpi winery, Zante

With Yannis from Nature World Travel, Zante

We spent a day on a catmaran trip faround Laganas bay, from Porto Roma booked with Nature World Travel who organise turtle-friendly trips to see the marine park in Laganas Bay. I talk to Yannis Vardakastanis about his work to conserve the turtles and other wildlife in Laganas bay and to Cathal, who works at the Earth Sea, Sky centre that Yannis runs at Gerakas, who tells us about the survey trips that he and the other the volunteers do every day to check on the turtle nests, and monitor their numbers which are sadly in decline.

We drove to the rocky northern end of the island to see the old monastery of St Denis, the patron saint of the island and drove on to the outlook over the much photographed Navagio bay or Smuggler’s cove which features on many a postcard before finishing with a late lunch in a local taverna at Alykes

I hope you enjoy the slide show below that is designed to accompany the podcast

If you enjoyed this travel podcast please check out my other podcasts in my Travel Podcast Archive

Things that you might enjoy on Zante or Zakynthos

Stay at one of my sister’s hotels at Windmill Studios or Windmill Bay Hotel – don’t miss the BBQ and Greek night that’s held once a week, open to non-residents too.

Learn what to look for in a traditional Greek taverna

Take coffee and glika (sweet cakes) in the backstreets of Zante town, or on the main square.

Visit a beautifully furnished 18th century Greek mansion at Romas Mansion in Zante town

Admire the fishing boats, yachts of all sizes and cargo ships in Zante harbour and walk right along to the end of the sea wall

Visit the Venetian fort or castle overlooking Zante town

See the sun set with a drink on the terrace at Bohali by the Venetian fort, with a view over Zante town

Visit the winery and do some wine tasting at Oenolpi winery at Machairado

See pottery being made and hand painted at the Sigouros workshop at Machairado or browse in the shop in Zante town

Take a boat trip around Laganas bay with Nature World Travel and spot some turtles if you’re lucky

Visit the Earth, Sea, Sky wildlife conservation centre at Gerakas beach, have lunch in the taverna next door and relax for the afternoon on the unspoilt Gerakas beach

Spend a few hours at the waterpark at Sarakinado – great for older children and teenagers

Sun yourself on one of the many beautiful beaches on Zakynthos

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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A turtle spotting boat trip on Zante – in Greece

HeatherCowper — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:08:09 +0000

On our recent trip to the Greek island of Zakynthos or Zante we took a boat trip through Laganas bay, famed as a nesting area for the Loggerhead or Caretta Caretta turtles. Sadly we didn’t spot any turtles on this trip but we did have a great day out sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling around the little coves and sea caves along the coast.

Porto Roma on Zakynthos

We started at Porto Roma where there is a hotel and terrace overlooking the small harbour and beach. The catamaran was waiting for us moored off-shore and we were ferried from the jetty by a tiny rubber boat that you could just squeeze four people into. “Don’t worry – it’s very safe” quipped the skipper as I clung on to my rucksack with all my camera equipment inside – “we call it the Titanic!”. It didn’t bode well when the rung of the ladder on the side of the boat collapsed as my husband climbed aboard. With 20 people I wondered how we would all fit on to the catamaran, but soon everyone had arranged themselves around the front of the boat, on benches along the side and under cover at the back. I liked the fact that the boat had a cabin and a shady area where you could get out of the sun, unlike some of the completely open boats we saw going out into the bay with no room to move around or any shade.

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On the way out Yannis Vardakastanis, whose company Nature World Travel had organised the trip, talked to everyone about his work with the sea turtles and the Earth Sea and Sky volunteer and information programme he runs to conserve their habitat. Unfortunately the numbers are dropping every year due increasing tourism and development on the turtle nesting sites. Laganas bay has a wide sandy beach that was perfect for turtle nesting with warm, shallow water for turtles to soak up the sun and develop their eggs. Now the large beach is less used by the nesting turtles as half of it is built up with apartments and hotels and the other half has a busy airport runway behind it. The turtles have been forced to move their nesting sites to other smaller beaches like Dafni and Gerkas, but even these beaches are under threat from development due to tourism.

We powered along past the cliffs and rounded the Gerakas headland with the protected turtle nesting beach, where no development is allowed and into the wide sweep of Laganas bay. We crossed the mouth of the bay, past two islands that even looked like turtles – the second one called Pelouzo has a small beach that is a protected nesting site for the loggerhead turtles. We passed around the furthest end of the bay and round Keri point where there’s a lighthouse. I’d been here before to see the view from the cliff over the sea, but this time we were looking up at the tall limestone cliffs and into a semicircle of cave with a small beach inside. The water is intensely turquoise and we jumped off the boat and snorkelled around to see the small shoals of fish darting through the water. As we swam into the cave over large round white stones, another small boat, rented from Laganas or the harbour at Keri bobbed up and down, keeping us company.

Heather with Yannis from Nature world travel

Catamaran trip around Laganas bay

After everyone had swum around the catamaran and jumped in as many times as they like, we moved back the way we had come past sea arches and small caves that are perfect for a small boat to explore. We stopped again by the sea caves on the Pelouzo island, but Yannis explained that we would not stop on the beach there as it was protected for turtle nests, even though we saw other boats ignoring the ban and landing. It seems that the Government funded National Marine Park is overstretched and does not have the resources to stop local businessmen pushing the boundaries to make a living.

Last year Yannis and his volunteers counted 800 turtle nests, a decline from the 1000 they counted the previous year and the 1300 of a few years before. As each female turtle may make 2 or 3 nests in different locations, Yannis estimates that there may only be 250-300 female turtles coming to nest in the area now. The statistics didn’t bode well for the turtles – only one in 1000 hatchlings will survive and then will take 25 years to reach maturity before returning to lay eggs on Zante. With estimated numbers dropping so low, it’s no wonder that Yannis feels that every turtles is precious and is angry when he finds turtles that have been injured or even killed in fishermen’s nets or by boat propellers.

Catamaran trip from Porto Roma

Fishing boats at Porto Roma

I jumped off the boat with my family and enjoyed swimming into the sea caves, although the caves on Pelouzo island were wild and less inviting. Then once again we returned to the boat and the catamaran turned into the bay, moving slowly through the waters, hoping to spot some turtles. There were several other boats around and as on other safaris and whale watching trips I’ve been on, they are in radio contact with each other if they spot any turtles. Although we kept a sharp look-out, we didn’t see any, although on most trips they do spot one or two. Yannis doesn’t guarantee a turtle spotting on his trips, preferring to make the whole day an enjoyable experience with the emphasis on the scenery and the swimming. However, many boats offering shorter trips from Laganas do offer a money back guarantee to see a turtle, which encourages the boats to harass the turtles and pen them in so that people can get a good view.

I would have loved to see some turtles, but was a great day out regardless and I prefer to support the sustainable approach to tourism that Yannis advocates. We returned back to Porto Roma by 4pm feeling relaxed and sun soaked but thankfully not burned. Although these trips are an expensive treat for a family at €50 per adult and €25 for children, I think it’s worth doing something like this once on your holiday, especially if you can be sure that the organisers are taking a responsible approach to conservation. You can book the catamaran tour we took through Nature World Travel in advance – contact details on their website, but be prepared to be flexible on the day, as sometimes trips are postponed when the weather is windy and the seas rough. Shorter trips also run from Laganas, but you should try to book with a responsible operator that respects the rules of the National Marine Park, and doesn’t harass the turtles or venture into prohibited areas of the bay.

Disclosure: Yannis kindly gave me a free place on the boat trip although I paid for my family.

Is this the best beach in the world? – Navagio on Zakynthos

HeatherCowper — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 07:19:45 +0000

When I was idly scanning through one of those ubiquitous ‘best beaches in the world’ articles, I came across Navagio on the Greek island of Zakynthos or Zante as one of the list. Huh! I thought – clearly written by some journalist who’s done a quick bit of Google research and has never been there.

Smuggler's cove or Navagio on Zante in Greece

But then as in all my years of visiting Zakynthos, I had never been there either, I thought that on this trip I might go and take a peek for myself. Only trouble is that Navagio or Smuggler’s Cove is only accessible by boat and is a stopping off point for every boat trip around the north of the island. The beach is notable for the rusty old wreck half buried in the sand of a ship that went aground in the 1980s, while supposedly smuggling cigarettes. There are probably many picturesque, remote beaches like this around the Greek coastline, but the presence of the wreck there seems to add to the photogenic appeal and make this one of the most photographed beaches in Greece.

As we weren’t planning an all day boat trip just to check it out, we took a drive up to the north end of the island where there’s a viewing point for the beach. You might imagine from this shot that I was standing on a windswept cliff among wildflowers and thyme, but the reality is that I was perched on a little fenced metal viewing platform that has been created just to help you get the postcard shot. We parked on the cliff top car park, walked down the road past the bar, past the ice cream van with the noisy generator and past the stalls selling local produce, oil and honey. Then we took our turn with the other visitors on the tiny platform to take this photo.

Heather, near Smuggler's cove in Zante, Greece

After I’d taken my postcard shot we spotted a path winding down the cliff side around the other side of the cove, that looked as though it might lead down to the beach. We decided to explore but after a few twists and turns the path got narrower and steeper until we gave up. Clearly someone had the idea of creating an alternative viewing point but we didn’t dare cllimb too far down the cliff and couldn’t see where the path ended. A number of people had also missed the tiny viewing point at the top and walked down thinking they would get a view of the Smuggler’s cove, and weren’t very pleased when they realised it led to nowhere. But I think that on that twisty path with the scent of pine resin, thyme and chamomile we were closer to what I love about Greece than the ice cream van and the viewing point. So - best beach in the world or just another pretty picture? I’ll let you decide.

This pretty picture is offered as part of Photo Friday hosted at Delicious Baby – head on over to find more Friday photos to inspire your weekend.

Postcard from Zante – ships in the harbour

HeatherCowper — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 18:20:46 +0000

Zante town harbour isn’t one of those sleepy, picturesque island harbours where the fishing boats bob up and down and not much else happens. It’s a big busy harbour with ships of all size. On any given day you might find a number of cargo ships in harbour – an island of this size has to be kept well-supplied especially when its numbers swell in summer with holidaymakers both Greek and other nationalities.

Sailing boat in Zante harbour

Yacht in Zante harbour

You’ll find the odd cruise liner as well, channelling people towards the expensive cafes in the main square with the waiters urging you in, even though you’ll only need to take a few steps down the side streets to find the old fashioned places that my husband loves.

If it’s a photo opportunity you’re after, you can find the fishing boats with their mustard yellow nets moored up along the main quay, together with the odd floating palace that celebrities love to rent for the summer. Walk further and up the main pier and you’ll fnd all the smaller yachts from all over the world – perhaps you’ll get chatting to a copper-tanned couple on board one of them and find they’ve sailed half around the world or that they’re spending the summer sailing around the Greek islands. This is what we dream of – of lazy days bobbing in some little cove, of exploring each new island you visit.

Heather in Zante town harbour

Fishing boats in Zante town harbour

Walk on further and you’ll find a small deserted cafe where you can sit with a coffee and then further still the tip of the harbour wall with perhaps a lone fisherman where you can watch the yachts motor out before setting sail around the island or even further. If you’re a sailor, Zante harbour is a place you could come to dream.

Don’t throw paper in the toilet – in Greece

HeatherCowper — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 19:41:51 +0000

If you’ve been to Greece you may know about the practice of throwing toilet paper in the bin rather than flushing it away. It’s something that I’ve never come across anywhere else in Europe but wherever you go in Greece you’ll see signs in the bathroom warning you, just in case you’re one of those ignorant people who’s never heard of this unusual practice.

Don't throw paper down the toilet in Greece

Apparently the plumbing in Greece just isn’t up to it and if I was a restaurant owner that was going to deal with a blockage I guess I’d be putting signs up just to make this clear.

Don't throw paper down the toilet in Greece

I do sometimes wonder whether the Greeks couldn’t just start using more accommodating pipes like the rest of Europe but perhaps their sewage processing works just wouldn’t take it either. But then it can’t be great to be putting all this paper in the landfill instead. It’s one of those mysteries that get’s more confusing the more you think about it. Best not to give it too much thought as you knock back the ouzo.

All I can say is that it’s sometimes a relief to get home and know that you can flush without fear of the consequences. If you’ve been to Greece I hope I didn’t spoil your moussaka and chips!

Perhaps you have a few bathroom stories from your travels you’d like to share. But then again…..

Photo credit: Photos are mine but I should credit Rob and Ritsa Wallace who run Freddie’s Beach Bar at Tsilivi, Zante where I saw them.

This post is part of Photo Friday hosted by Debbie at Delicious Baby – head over for more delicious posts and let’s not dwell on toilet talk any more.

Postcard from Zante – windy day at Windmill Bay

HeatherCowper — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 19:16:46 +0000

This is the second of my postcards from the Greek island of Zante where I’m staying with my sister this week. We were looking forward to a boat ride yesterday but on ringing to confirm were told that the weather was forecast to be windy and the boat trip was postponed until later in the week. Windy weather = choppy seas = holidaymakers feeling sick and not enjoying themselves, not to mention any safety issues on small boats.

Windy day at Windmill Bay Hotel, Argassi, Zante

The air was warm but the skies overcast and holidaymakers dressed for the beach shivered and looked hopefully towards the sky, waiting for the sun to shine. Overcast days are ideal for a walk through the olive groves or a trip to town which is what we did. Later we went down to Windmill Bay hotel and the children braved the cool air and went swimming in the sea.

In late May and early June the weather can be changeable, not always burning sunshine, so we were prepared. But today the sun shone again and we’re hoping the boat trip will be on for Friday.

Wish you were here ….

More things to see on Zante

Welcome to Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi on the Greek island of Zante
Friday photo – a hunter’s view in Zakynthos
Postcard from Zante – our lunch in the port

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heatheronhertravels’ Zakynthos – around the island photoset

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Postcard from Zante – our lunch in the port

HeatherCowper — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 08:39:28 +0000

This is the first of my postcards from the Greek island of Zante where I’m staying with my sister for the week, enjoying some sunshine and warmth.

We cadged a lift this morning into Zante town and wandered from one end of the town to the other past those everyday shops that fuel daily life here – fresh fish, fruit & veg, those old fashioned clothes shops that have everthing from old ladys’ underwear to baby clothes and plenty that sell glitzy sunglasses, gold jewellery and designer labels for the well-heeled Zakynthian.

Fishing boats in Zante town, Greece

We decided to have a bit of lunch the seafront which is pleasant but not as idyllic as you’d imagine with a busy road running between the shop fronts and the sea and a constant stream of tooting motor bikes. We chose a slightly scruffy place that looked reasonably authentic with an appetising aroma of grilled meat floating out. Of course most of the authentic Greeks were next door in the uber trendy coffee bar with rattan sofas and club music.

Mezze lunch in Zante town, Greece

We went for a selection of the Mezze – vine leaves stuffed with rice and mint, creamy tsatziki, some small sardines fried in batter, giant broad beans in a tomato sauce and courgettes oven baked with olive oil and lemon. The other folk eating there were all Brits in shorts & vests having burger and chips – so much for the authentic Greek style but the food was good.

Next for a stroll along the harbour, eyeing up all the boats from the huge floating gin palaces (perhaps there’s a film star in town) to the small yachts from all over the world from Europe to Australia. We continued right to the very end of the jetty where we found a lone fisherman with his rod, hoping to keep the spot to himself. The mid-day sun was tempered by a deceptively refreshing breeze, but I wasn’t worried as I had applied the Factor 50 before setting off.

Mezze lunch in Zante town

On the way back we stopped at that authentically Greek trendy coffee bar and lounged around on the rattan sofas, sipping frappes in tall glasses – we tried to blend in with the hip crowd and paid for the privilege. Our coffees were around €4 each – ouch! Next time it’ll be a budget cheese pie from the bakery sitting on a bench overlooking the marina.

Tonight’s the Greek night – more authentic Greek dancing and authentic Greek BBQ at the hotel.

Wish you were here…..

More things to see on Zante

Blue fishing boats on Zakynthos
Sunday morning Greek coffee and glika – in Zakynthos
A tour of Romas mansion on Zakynthos

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How (not) to start your holiday on the sun!

HeatherCowper — Sun, 30 May 2010 19:56:09 +0000

The alarm on the mobile goes at 2.30am. I’m slightly worse for wear after getting to bed at midnight after a day of non-stop clothes washing, shopping for sun cream and preparing blog posts. For the last few weeks my husband has been telling me how he can’t wait until we get to Greece, and now the big day’s here. The M4 to Gatwick’s free of traffic and we make it in record time only to go round in circles trying to find our holiday parking (which I thought from the website was practically beside the terminal but in fact is tucked with little signage down a leafy lane).

Easyjet at Zante

As we reach the terminal my heart sinks as I spot the queue for the Easyjet check-in snaking back and forth endlessly inside the building and right out the door. Periodically the staff shout out a destination that’s just about to leave and rush those customers to the front – it’s a roll-call of all the package holiday destinations – Tenerife, Faro, Mikanos, Malaga. After 45 minutes we reach the check-in desk and then join the queue to get through security, but luckily we’re well practiced, remove belts & bracelets, extract lap tops and so we’re through without even a beep of the scanner.

A quick panini, a purchase of some flip flops and before we know it the departure gate’s showing on the screen. But there’s still a long promised purchase of some make up for my daughter and so we nip into Boots. Before we know it they’re calling for us, threatening to boot our luggage off the plane and leave without us. We sprint to the gate, only to sit for another 20 minutes in the departure lounge before boarding the buses. At the plane steps we find the cleaners are still bringing out the rubbish – apparently they forgot to clean the plane earlier and are just getting round to it now. We all grit our teeth as we’re penned in the bus for a further 15 minute and I make a mental to not ever, no never, fly from Gatwick again (unless of course it’s mega-cheap)

View over Zante bay

At last we are let loose and it’s mayhem as everyone jostles to get to the unsecured seats, worried they might not be able sit together. Luckily, an unusually for an Easyjet flight, the plane’s not full, so there’s room for everyone. The Captain’s smooth and apologetic words wash over us, there are offers for children to look around the flight desk, and the cabin crew are sweetness itself. I almost don’t mind paying the extortionate £1.50 for a tiny bottle of water.

Windmill studios hotel at Argassi, Zante

3 hours later we touch down on the Greek island of Zante, where we’ll be spending the next week with my sister and her husband who run two hotels here, keeping us plied with ices cream and beer. The warm air hits us as the plane doors open and we’re nearly there. Will my husband follow his holiday tradition and drink a carafe of red wine before falling asleep in the sun and getting burned? Will the children get on their bathers and jump in the pool before we’ve even make it to the room? Will I calmly unpack my bag before going out to soak up the sunshine? We’ve been coming for 20 years, so we know the routine by now.

The stresses of the journey melt away – we’re on holiday!

Welcome to Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi on the Greek island of Zante – video

HeatherCowper — Mon, 24 May 2010 19:55:09 +0000

Welcome to Windmill Bay Hotel, the hotel that my sister Jenny and her Greek husband Denis built. Windmill Bay is in Argassi on the Greek island of Zakynthos (as the Greeks call it) or Zante (as the English holiday brochures call it) – it’s about 15 minutes from the island’s capital, Zante town and the same from the airport.

Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi, Zante, Greece

Windmill Bay is the second hotel that Jenny and Denis built – when Jennifer first started working as a Tour Rep on the island and met Denis he’d already made a start on some rooms to rent on the land he inherited below the family home up on the hill. Over the years, they’d work hard all summer catering for the English holiday makers and in the winter, work even harder building another section of their first hotel, down the road at Windmill studios. From the hard work, the rooms grew into a hotel with a pool and restaurant bar that’s busy all day and into the evening. As if they didn’t already have enough to do, a few years ago they decided to build Windmill Bay on another plot of land they owned by the sea.

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The semicircular design of Windmill Bay cleverly means that all rooms look out towards the sea with a view across the bay to Zante town. On this stretch of coast the beach is narrow and pebbly, but from the pool area you can walk directly down into the water or walk a little way along to where it becomes more sandy. Within a short drive along the coast there are many other sandy beaches to choose from if you have a hire car or take one of the beach buses that run that way in the summer.

Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi, Zante, Greece

All summer, Jenny and Denis run the hotels with not much time to sit still, let alone chat to me when I come to visit. You may sit at the bar thinking how nice it would be to share their lifestyle, without realising how much hard work goes into keeping it all going and keeping up the standards, with constant refurbishment projects through the winter. No, you’re there to relax and have a great holiday, and dream idly about living in the sunshine.

Windmill Bay Hotel in Argassi, Zante, Greece

Personally I’ve never stayed at Windmill Bay Hotel, as we prefer to stay at Windmill Studios to be closer to my sister’s house, but if I didn’t have the family considerations I’d be there like a shot. I love the location on the edge of the resort where the buildings start to give way to olive groves and I love to swim in the clear calm water and I love to watch the sun set over Zante town and then see the lights gradually come on across the bay. The hotel has 44 apartments that sleep 2-3 comfortably or 5 at a squash – do take a look at my video to get the feel for the hotel and the apartments.

Of course, as Jenny’s my sister you may think I’m biased but I think it’s a lovely place to stay, and I’m sure you can judge for yourself. Read the online reviews and if you fancy booking then you can either contact Jenny directly via the website (if you can get a cheap flight) or book through one of the holiday companies that offer holidays there. I’d recommend visiting the island in the early summer when the island is fresh and covered with wild flowers or in September when the weather’s still warm and the cyclamen are blooming in the olive groves.

Enjoy your holiday – we’ll be there very soon so look out for more articles from Zakynthos. This post is part of Mondays are for dreaming hosted at Mother of all trips – I’m dreaming of my holiday in Zakynthos next week, where are you dreaming of?

Windmill Studios and Windmill Bay Website in Argassi, Zakynthos, Greece

If you want to read more about things to do on Zakynthos, do check out my other articles here

The Venetian Fort at Bohali on Zakynthos – Greece

HeatherCowper — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 07:56:30 +0000

Although I visit the Greek island of Zakynthos each year, last summer was the first time that I managed to take a look inside the old Venetian Fort or Kastro on top of the hill at Bohali and overlooking Zante town. I’ve often sat in one of the terrace cafes up there and admired the view over the town looking out to sea and even looked inside the pretty little church that is so sought after for weddings and christenings, but somehow I never got there at a time when the Venetian fort was open.

At the Venetian Fort on Zakynthos

This time, I made a little more effort to arrive in the morning and was able to pass through the stone gateway with the Venetian lion carved on it and into the compound itself. The Venetian Fort dates back to the 15th century and is enclosed by a stone wall with steep drops on all sides and a near 360 degree view over the island, so it’s easy to understand why it would be situated on this hill. In 1460 the fort was destroyed by the Turks and later the islanders tried to repair it with the help of the Venetians at one point making it the capital of the island.

Bar outside the castle overlooking Zante town

Terrace above Zante town

Inside the walls, there is a surprisingly large area that would once have been a bustling encampment, almost a small village catering for the many soldiers stationed here, but is now an open space, overgrown with shady pine trees. There was little left to indicate what would have once gone on inside the fortress with only a few stone buildings remaining, such as the prison cells and the munitions building. There were some canons lying around and a paved stone area by the walls where you could get a great view over the bay and imagine yourself to be on look-out for invasion from the sea.

Venetian Fort on Zakynthos

At each of the different areas there were signs in English describing the buildings or activities that were once there. However, there was little else to bring the place to life and the whole fortress had something of an abandoned air. Thinking of the similar fortress of Castelo de Sao Jorge in Lisbon which is one of the premier tourist attractions of the city, has an excellent museum and even a top class restaurant inside the walls, I thought what a missed opportunity this was for the island. Perhaps the local authorities are not interested in directing resources at this part of the island’s history or perhaps the package holiday makers who visit Zakynthos are not so interested in visiting this kind of historical attraction.

The Venetian fort above the Zante town Zakynthos

If you visit the island of Zakynthos, it’s worth looking around if you’re interested in the history of the island, perhaps combining with a relaxing coffee on the terrace admiring the view and a look inside the church if it happens to be open. I believe the little tourist train that stops in the main square of Zante town will take you up to the top of the hill to save your weary legs on the steep climb. The opening times are given below, although you may need to get your hotel to check these by ringing ahead, if you’re making a special visit.

From the 1st of November to the 30th of June: Every day from :08.30-15.00 and closed on Mondays.
From the 1st of July to the 31st of October: Every day from 08.00-19.00 and closed on Mondays.

Heather on her travels » Greece

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Useful links

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I feel like (Greek) dancing at the Windmill Hotel – video

More Greek holiday moments

Where Heather travelled in 2010

January brings a stay at the Mandarin Oriental and tea at Kensington Palace

February – and we’re nearly snowed in at our Welsh country cottage in the Brecon Beacons

March – and we take a creative break in Manchester

April when we stay at a Cotswold Country Inn and take a dip in the Roman Baths

May – and we seek the sun on the Greek island of Zakynthos

June and we’re going underground into Churchill’s London war-rooms

July – we make a pilgrimage to Altötting and see the passion play at Oberammergau

July in Malaga – seafood on the beach on the Costa del Sol

August – and we head for Hungary for a family holiday in Budapest and Lake Balaton

September – far a walking break in the French Alps on the Tour de Mont Blanc

October – family fun in northern France, near Paris

November and I link up with other travel bloggers at TBEX in Copenhagen

December – it’s Christmas!

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13 Zante – my Greek island holiday – podcast

Shownotes

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Postcard from Zante – our lunch in the port

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