Heavenly seafood at the Feskekörka – Restaurant Gabriel in Gothenburg

As we approach the Feskekörka or Fish Church, overlooking the Rosenlund Canal, we can see how it got its name. The brick building that houses Gothenburg’s Fish Market was built in 1874 with Gothic arched windows under steeply pitched eves giving it a somewhat ecclesiastical air. The building was considered quite futuristic in its day with an open interior and no supporting columns and it originally housed the fish auction for the city which was later moved to a new location in 1910. Since then the Feskekörka has been home to the Fish Market with a number of stalls selling fresh fish, ready-prepared fish dishes and two restaurants, including Restaurant Gabriel that we’ve come to visit.

As we arrive only just in time for our 1 o’clock lunch booking at Restaurant Gabriel, we by-pass all the glass cabinets with interesting looking fish on ice and hurry up the stairs to the mezzanine restaurant level at one end of the building. At the top of the steps we are greeted by the tall owner John Malm, wearing drainpipe jeans and DMs under his chef’s jacket with a close cropped beard making him look like a rather trendy fisherman. (Of course my husband spotted the Breitling watch well before I did). We squeeze in among the closely packed tables to be seated with a balcony view over the fish market below, from where we observe the ebb and flow of business in the fish market and a steady stream of people coming up the steps hopeful of a table.

We study the menu card until Johan assures us that it’s only a guide to what’s on offer and that he can cook anything that’s fresh and tasty in the market today. We start with a shot of frothy fish soup to chase down a lightly cooked mussel and then get on to the oysters that Johan recommends since they are at their peak in December, before the waters off West Sweden become too cold. I feel I can trust his judgement as he’s won countless oyster opening competitions in Gothenburg and Stockholm and was the winner of the oyster opening championships in Galway, Ireland in 2010. “How many oysters would you like?” asks Johan. “Just a few to try” we say, not sure if we are true oyster lovers, so he brings us 3 each and opens them at the table, demonstrating the oyster opening techniques that made him a prize winner.

Apparently it’s not just about speed in these competitions but about making sure that the shell doesn’t get broken and that you can separate the oyster cleanly from the shell without nicking the delicate flesh with your knife. I’m mesmerised by Johan’s deft hands opening our oysters and even happier after I’d eaten my 3 oysters washed down with a glass of champagne. The best way to eat oysters according to Johan is as natural as possible – with just a squeeze of lemon. These were hand caught yesterday and with something so ultra-fresh it would be a shame to mask the flavour. The trick, he assures us, is to make sure that you chew the oyster properly to get the slightly metallic flavour of the sea and perhaps an aftertaste of water-melon! It seems rather a shame that the oyster that took between 5 and 7 years to grow to full size is swallowed down in a nano-second. Take a look at the video of me eating oysters at Restaurant Gabriel

In between courses Johan tells us how he grew up helping his father in the restaurant; ‘’I got my first chef’s jacket when I was only four years old” he tells us, proudly showing us the framed photo of himself as a child dressed in the chef’s whites. He left Sweden to live for a while in South America and in Spain, before returning to run the restaurant together with his father, Gunnar Malm. I asked Johan what makes the seafood so special in Gothenburg and why there are so many fish restaurants in the city. “It’s a long tradition”, he explained, “We have the water all around us and so fish has always been a major food for us. The water is highly salted and at this time of year the fish grow in deep, cold water and that makes them very fresh and very tasty”. You can hear my interview with Johan Malm in my Gothenburg Podcast.

Our next course is a fish smörgåsbord;  a selection of small fish bites served on a large slate platter to share between us. Of course the herring plays a leading role here, as it’s a staple food in Sweden and one that is typically served at Christmas, washed down with snaps to cut through the rich, oily flavour. Every family has their own special way of preparing the herring, Johan tells us, and we taste the classic style with onion, a sweet and sour sauce with cucumber and a herring with tomato and horseradish salsa – just like Grandma might make. There’s also the fried herring on crispy bread that’s another Swedish speciality – we’d tried something similar at the Strömmingsluckan Herring Cart at Magasinsgaten. There are waxy potatoes and some flavoursome Swedish Västerbottenost cheese that’s a bit like a creamy cheddar, to add a salty element to the meal. It’s all washed down with locally brewed Ocean beer and a shot of snaps.

Johan breaks off to discuss some wedding arrangements with a couple who will be having their reception in the  Feskekörka – after the doors have closed to the public, there are often catered evening events in the central hall down below and later when we are leaving the tables are being set out for that evening. “What else would you like?” asks Johan, and as we eye the cold water from the canal outside, ready to overflow the banks and the grey rain-soaked skies, we shiver a little and ask for something warming. We get just what we need, a bowl of saffron-yellow thick fish soup arrives, with mussels and chunks of fish at the bottom. Just the thing to sustain you on a winter’s day in Gothenburg.

Restaurant Gabriel in Feskekôrka in Gothenburg

Restaurant Gabriel in Feskekôrka in Gothenburg

I ask Johan to tell us the story of how he came to be competing at the Galway oyster-opening championships which he won in 2010. In Gothenburg they had a contest between all the different restaurants that serve oysters, to promote the fish restaurants in the city. As Johan was the winner, he qualified for the Swedish championships where he came second enabling him to go to Ireland to attend the Galway contest. He enjoyed himself so much that he decided to keep going back until he could become the world champion which happened in 2010. He admitted that after opening so many oysters his hands were pretty sore by the end of the competition.

It’s nearly four in the afternoon and I can see the stalls below are starting to pack up so we decide it’s time to leave our heavenly meal at Restaurant Gabriel to have a last look around the Fish Church. There are big bowls of crayfish and lobsters, slabs of fresh fish and plenty of tasty samples to try at the stalls that sell fish dishes to take away. Even if you’re not eating at either of the two restaurants (the other is Kajutan) I reckon you could taste your way round the fish market and in summer buy your picnic to eat by the canal or in one of the nearby parks. The seafood is one of the great specialities of Gothenburg – everyone from the man on the street to the Michelin star chef will tell you so – from the crayfish parties of August to the winter oysters to the endless varieties of Christmas herring – and where better to try the Gothenburg seafood than in the Fish Church itself.

Restaurant Gabriel, Feskekörka, Gothenburg – Facebook Page

Feskekörka Website

More good things to eat in Gothenburg

Eight Swedish Foods to try in Gothenburg – Video
Chocolate with Sea Salt – A taste of West Sweden at Flickorna Kanold in Gothenburg
Gourmet Gothenburg – Our Michelin star meal at Basement – Video

Visitor Information for Gothenburg or Göteborg

• The local tourism site Göteborg.com is full of information on the best things to see and do
• For information on West Sweden visit the West Sweden Tourism site or follow them on Twitter @WestSwedenTB or on their Facebook page and you will find their blog at ExploreWestSweden.com
• Another useful site for all things Gothenburg is I Love Göteborg
• If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing it’s worth getting the Gothenburg City Card which will allow you entrance to all the major attractions as well as public transport. Look out for the deals that some hotels offer that include a Gothenburg Card with the hotel booking.
• We stayed at the classic 5 star hotel, Elite Plaza Hotel which is in the Inom Vallgraven district and walking distance from most of the sights of Gothenburg.
• We took flights to Gothenburg from London Heathrow with Scandinavian Airlines who have 2 flights a day to Gothenburg’s Landvetter airport, a 30 minute taxi or bus ride from the city.
• If you’d like to use a guidebook during your visit to Gothenburg I’d recommend the conveniently sized Thomas Cook Gothenburg Pocket Guide which we used.

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Sweden – Gothenburg photoset

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Eat the Neighbourhood in Nørrebro, Copenhagen

If there’s a fine line between a neighbourhood that’s trendy and up and coming or slightly dodgy and worth keeping your wits about you, then Nørrebro in Copenhagen must be treading that line. But if you’re a gourmet at heart then this area of the Danish capital is worth exploring, with a number of great food destinations that I discovered when I was there last spring.

In Copenhagen, Coffee Collective is synonymous with a passion for coffee. Although their coffee beans are sold all around Copenhagen, there’s only one small shop with a few ouside tables where they brew the coffee and that shop is in Nørrebro. Apparently, the queues sometimes stretch right down the street as Copenhageners who care about great coffee come to get their coffee fix. The owners use a Direct Trade model, working with farmers in Brazil, Guatamala, Kenya and Panama to pay the best prices for the best quality coffee. Coffee Collective has won numerous awards for their coffee – it’s fair to say that they live and breathe coffee!  However long the line, their baristas will always take care to make you a great cup of coffee.

Coffee Collective, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

To enjoy with your coffee you might want to pop across the road to the Claus Meyer Bakery where you can buy one of  their fruit slices as well as the rustic Danish bread – these guys are passionate about their sourdough.  I visited the Claus Meyer factory on a previous visit to Copenhagen for TBEX – where we saw the sourdough breads being made and then followed on with a tour of the Meyer Vinegar Brewery for a tasting of everything from blackcurrent flavour to a syrupy aged balsamic. The bakery is owned by top Danish chef Claus Meyer who’s  a gastronomic entrepreneur and leading light in the Nordic cuisine movement to bring back seasonal Scandinavian produce, as well as co-founder of Noma, known as ‘The Best restaurant in the world” Phew with such a culinary pedigree one would hope that the bread would be a cut above.

Claus Meyer Bakery, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

For top food at affordable (for Copenhagen) prices try Relae restaurant – a brasserie where the style is simple and stylish, with no frills in the decor and service but it’s all about the food. The head chef and co-owner Christian F. Puglisi has worked at Michelin star restaurants such as El Bulli and Noma, but the atmosphere here is much more laid back. Although I didn’t eat here, I did pop in to take a look and I hear the food is something special, with an inventive set menu that offers good vegetarian options.

Relae, Jægersborggade 41, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

Complete your food tour of Nørrebro with a special evening at Michelin star Thai restaurant Kiin Kiin. When I met the owner Henrik Yde-Andersen he told me that when they first opened, the area had a rather dodgy reputation so they took something of a risk in opening such a classy restaurant. Henrik worked for several years as a chef in Thailand and brought his passion for the cuisine back to his homeland – his signature dish is frozen red curry with lobster salad and unusually for Asian food he uses his training as a sommelier to marry great wines with the Thai dishes. If your budget can’t stretch to Michelin star prices, don’t worry as right next door there’s his neighbourhood Thai curry cafe, Aroidee,  which is always packed with locals. The cafe started because Henrik hated any food going to waste and used to sell inexpensive take away curries from the kitchen door, but when the queues started stetching down the road, it was time to open Aroidee. You can read my interview with Henrik Yde Andersen and hear the interview as part of my Copenhagen podcast

Kiin Kiin and Aroidee, Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

More things to enjoy in Copenhagen

Bike + Train = Adventure in Copenhagen 
17 Podcast – Our long weekend in Copenhagen
In search of the perfect Smørrebrød – in Copenhagen

Resources for visiting Copenhagen

• You’ll find plenty of information about places to eat and things to see on the Visit Copenhagen website
• There is a free Visit Copenhagen Mobile phone app available for iPhone, Android and other smartphones
• If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing then check out the Copenhagen Card for free entry to 65 museums and attractions as well as free public transport around the city
• We stayed at the modern, stylish Ibsens Hotel, set in the arty and up and coming Nansensgarde neighbourhood near the Copenhagen lakes.

Thanks to Wonderful Copenhagen for sponsoring our weekend in Copenhagen.

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Copenhagen – Food & Drink photoset

 

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A day and night out in Cardiff – Wales

When you start a holiday, you’re always eager to see as many sights as you can, but if you get too excited, you end up seeing them all, and if you’re holidaying over the course of a week or fortnight, you find yourself bored with a few days still to go. Fortunately, when visiting Cardiff, you won’t have that problem.

Many people don’t have the time to go on a week-long break, but day and night breaks can be just as relaxing. You can take in plenty of sights, with time left to have a meal at one of the Welsh capital’s outstanding restaurants before retreating to one of those comfortable, welcoming Cardiff hotels for a great night’s sleep.

As you would expect from a capital city, Cardiff is jam packed with attractions. It has numerous parks, sporting and cultural venues, historical sites, top-class shops and eateries, all of which make the city a fantastic place to spend a weekend in.

The Millenium Stadium, the home of the Welsh national rugby union team, is one of Europe’s largest purpose-built sporting venues. As well as hosting top-class sporting events, the stadium also hosts concerts for rock and pop groups, plus the amazing Welsh National Opera.

Cardiff plays host to Wales’ National Museum and Art Gallery, which puts on various exhibitions with relevance to both the local area and the wider world. Admission is free, so if you’re holidaying with children, this is an ideal place for the whole family to visit.

Parks are plentiful in Cardiff, and if you’re looking for a peaceful weekend, then a stroll through Bute Park on the edge of the city centre, or Roath Park, which lies within its leafy suburbs could be the answer. Cardiff has more parkland per capita than any other major city in the UK, so you’re spoilt for choice.

Other attractions of note include St. David’s Hall, which is one of the country’s best concert halls, the magnificent Cardiff Castle and the inspiring St. David’s Cathedral. Shopping in Cardiff is a joy, particularly around precincts such as St. David’s, Royal Arcade and the Capitol Centre.

Once you’ve taken in all the sights, then why not cap off your day by having a meal at one of the many top-class restaurants in the breathtakingly modern Cardiff Bay area. Eateries such as Signor Valentino’s, Bosphorus Turkish Restaurant and Miller and Carter Restaurant and Bar offer flavours from South Wales and beyond, and are guaranteed to re-energise you after taking in all the sights of this wonderful, underrated city.

When you’ve finished your meal, then you’re able to retreat to a quality hotel such as the Ibis Hotel Cardiff Gate and sleep soundly in a freshly-made bed knowing that you’ve had the best day break imaginable, and if there’s anywhere you didn’t see, you can always come back for another trip.

Photo Credits: All photos by cardiffandco

More Things to see in Wales

Walking In Wales – 10 Easy And Inspirational Day Walks
Camping in sunshine and showers – on the Gower in Wales
A snowy break at Laswern Fawr holiday in the Brecon Beacons, Wales – video

My thanks for this sponsored post to Eurobookings.com, the European booking specialist

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

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