A weekend guide to Le Havre: delicious food and culture in Normandy

Most people in Britain think of Le Havre as a place to get off the ferry and drive straight on to their holiday in France. For the French however, it’s a sailor’s haven, a seaside resort for families and a gateway to the Alabaster Coast, with the translucent light so loved by the Impressionist painters. On my weekend in Le Havre I discovered there’s a lot more to this UNESCO World Heritage site than meets the eye and with daily ferries on the Portsmouth Le Havre crossing with Brittany Ferries, it’s ideal for a weekend break. Here’s my weekend guide to what you can see in Le Havre, France.

A weekend guide to le Havre Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Arriving on Brittany Ferries to Le Havre

We arrived in Le Havre port on an overnight sailing with Brittany Ferries, having slept well in our cabin bunks, risen to a good breakfast and gone up on deck just as dawn was breaking. With flat-fronted post-war buildings lining the port, you won’t find much of the picturesque, since most of the town was destroyed by Allied bombing in the Second World War. The man awarded with the monumental and unenviable task of rebuilding Le Havre and rehousing the 80,000 people who had been made homeless, was architect Auguste Perret.

Arriving at Le Havre by ferry Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Arriving at Le Havre on Brittany Ferries

The post-war architecture of Le Havre

Rather than try to reconstruct the town in the old style, the acres of rubble were replaced with a unified town plan, with the inhabitants being rehoused in new apartments, allocated based on the size of the houses they had lost. The approach was not universally popular since the people of Le Havre just wanted their old town back, even though the scale of the devastation made this impossible.

Hotel de Ville at Le Havre, France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Hotel de Ville at Le Havre

Since there was no source of stone nearby, little petrol to transport materials and a minimal post-war budget, the options were limited. Perret’s solution earned him the name The Poet of Concrete. This flexible material could be easily transported and mixed on site, to create low rise apartment blocks that were harmonious, yet each subtly different in their colours, textures, classical columns and balcony design.

From the top of the Hôtel de Ville Le Havre, we were able to look out over the town and see how it had been rebuilt with ordered boulevards and everywhere rectangular apartment blocks. Perret’s modernist vision has now been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status, as an example of post-war town planning and the innovative use of concrete.

If you go: Enquire in the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) or Maison du Patrimoine (the Le Havre tourist information centre) at 181, rue de Paris, to check whether there are guided tours up the tower of the Hôtel de Ville, which are recommended for the 360 degree views over the town.

View from the town hall of Le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

View from the town hall of Le Havre

The Church of St Joseph in Le Havre

As you come into Le Havre by ferry, the spire of St Joseph’s church rises 350 feet above the town, serving as a lighthouse for sailors to navigate into safe harbour. The church is one of main tourist attractions in Le Havre, a landmark building that Auguste Perret designed after the war, built on the site of earlier churches that had been destroyed.

Like the rest of Perret’s designs, St Joseph’s is a monument in concrete, the solid, square base not giving much away of what is inside. The exterior has an industrial feel, like a giant warehouse, but once inside, the interior is softened by the glow of the stained glass in geometric patterns.

St Joseph's Church in Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

St Joseph’s Church in Le Havre

Unusually the church is built on the square Greek cross, with the spire rising like a chimney above the central altar. Perret left the concrete structure unadorned, just as it came out of the moulds, but he commissioned the design of the stained glass from another artist, Marguerite Huré.

The 6500 pieces of stained glass rise in grades of colour getting paler until they end with white at the top of the spire. The impression is a harmonious whole but there are subtle variations of colour which change with the direction of the sun. To the east the lilac, green and gold represent the nativity, to the north the blue represents the Virgin Mary and to the south the orange and gold represent the victory of Christ triumphant.

Spire of St Joseph's Church in le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Spire of St Joseph’s Church in le Havre

Other than the stained glass there is little decoration, only the two statues of the Virgin and Saint Joseph that were brought from an earlier church. St Joseph’s church is austerely beautiful and unique. The stained glass colours reminded me, as I looked up the spire towards the sky, of a child’s kalaidascope with dots of colour forming ever changing patterns.

I remember my grandfather made one for my mother during the war with balls of coloured foil sweet wrappers. Perhaps Marguerite Huré had one too?  The church was completed after Perret’s death in 1957 and is dedicated to the victims of the bombings in Le Havre.

Read more about St Joseph’s Church, The symbol of Le Havre’s rebirth

If you go: St Joseph’s church, Bd François 1er, 76600 LE HAVRE. Free entry. Open daily 10:00-6:00pm except during services.

The Auguste Perret Show Flat in le Havre

To get a feel for the accommodation that was built to rehouse families after so much of the town had been destroyed in the war, visit Appartement Témoin Perret, the ‘Show Flat’ which is an example of one of the apartments that has been furnished as it would have been in the 1950s.

In order to maximise the limited space, at a time when the priority was to rehouse the largest number of people, Perret created an open plan layout with a living area off which all the other rooms flow. It was revolutionary that the bathroom was not outside in the yard and the kitchen was now in the heart of the home, boasting labour saving appliances such as a refrigerator, pressure cooker and vacuum cleaner.

The Auguste Peret Show Flat in Le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

The Auguste Peret Show Flat in Le Havre

If I was a modern woman of the 1950s, having lived through the war and the town laid to rubble, I think one of these flats might have looked like heaven to me! I’d be happy to move in myself, with the wooden floors, colourful rugs and warm oak furniture, reminiscent of the classic Scandinavian designs of the same era. I loved the way that even the wardrobes were filled with clothing from the period and the shelves stacked with crockery, as if the family had just popped out to do some shopping.

If you go: Auguste Perret Show Flat, Maison du patrimoine, 181 rue de Paris. Entry: 5 €, free for under 26 yrs and on 1st Saturday of every month. Open Weds, Sat, Sun for tours at 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm and additional times in July/August.

Auguste Perret Show Flat in Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Auguste Perret Show Flat in Le Havre

Le Volcan in Le Havre

What Le Havre lost in its picturesque pre-war town, it has more than made up for in stunning modern architecture like Le Volcan, the Volcano shaped cultural centre by Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. We walked down the steps from the road to an open piazza below the level of the main town and through the library which was packed with families, teenagers and locals of all ages.

Le Volcan in Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Le Volcan in Le Havre

It’s not really a place you would think to go as a tourist, but walking through into the space below one of the two ‘volcanos’ we could see what an effective and clearly much loved venue this is. Orange and yellow chairs are grouped around casually, with book-cases for browsing, rooms to watch a DVD or listen to music and spaces to just hang out with your friends or people-watch from the upper level balconies. I think there are probably a few quiet corners if you just want a snooze too!

If you go: Le Volcan, 1 quai George V.  Free entry for the library, also musical and artistic events are held here.

Inside Le Volcan in Le Havre, Normady Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Inside Le Volcan in Le Havre

MUMA Modern art museum

One of my favourite things to do in Le Havre was the Musée Malraux of Modern Art or MUMA, a light and airy glass sided box that contains the largest collection of Impressionist paintings outside Paris. Start your visit on the quayside opposite the museum where you’ll find an information board telling you about the view that Monet painted from this very spot which he named “Impression, Sunrise” giving name to a whole movement of painting – Impressionism.

The MUMA Modern art museum in Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

The MUMA Modern art museum in Le Havre

The art museum is a restful setting for the Impressionist paintings, many of them donations and legacies from major private art collections. Who needs Musee d’Orsay, when you can see the Monet lilies painted at Giverny, Renoir’s pretty Excursioniste with walking pole in hand, the elegant Degas ballerinas and artworks by Pissaro, Sisley and many others. I loved the colourful, flowing art of Raoul Dufy, who was born in Le Havre and the whole wall upstairs of Normandy cows and pastel sailing boats by Eugène Boudin who painted all along this coast.

Raoul Duffy paining at MUMA in Le Havre in Normandy Photo:heatheronhertravels.com

Raoul Duffy paining at MUMA in Le Havre

When MUMA was built in the 1960s it was quite unusual to have a café in a museum and it looked the perfect place to sit with a coffee to contemplate the boats passing by on the Seine estuary. If you love the Impressionists, there’s a whole trail along the coast of information signs at the places where key paintings were made. Pick up a leaflet at the Maison du Patrimoine visitor centre (181 rue de Paris) or download the iphone app here

If you go: MuMa André Malraux Museum of Modern Art,  Cost: 5€ , free for under 26 years and on 1st Saturday of month. Open daily except Tuesday 11am – 6pm. Arrive by bus Line 3 from the train station.

Maison de L’Armateur – the Shipowner’s mansion

In contrast to all all the modern architecture is the Maison de L’armateur or Ship Owner’s Mansion, an elegant 18th century house that faces the harbour. Built in 1790 by a leading Le Havre architect, it was later bought by a wealthy merchant, Martin Pierre Foache, to use as his offices as well as the winter residence of his family.

Maison L'Armateur, the Shipowner's mansion in Le Havre Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Maison L’Armateur, the Shipowner’s mansion in Le Havre

What makes the house unusual is the central glazed atrium illuminated by a glass skylight, off which the rooms of the house radiate on four floors. The mansion is elegantly furnished with wooden parquet flooring, marble fireplaces, pictures, furniture and objects of the period that show the lifestyle lived by a wealthy 18th century merchant.

The ground floor was used for storage, with the ship-owner’s office on the first floor, while upper floors were the living space of the shipowner’s family. From the upper floor rooms I could look out and imagine the merchant spending time with his family, while keeping one eye on his ships passing through the port from his window.

Maison l'Armateur, the Shipowner's mansion at Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Maison l’Armateur, the Shipowner’s mansion at Le Havre

If you go: Maison de l’Armateur, 3 Quai de l’Ile. Cost: €5, free under 26 yrs and 1st Saturday of month. Open: 11:00 a.m. – 12:30 and 1:30 p.m. – 6:00 p.m., except Weds from 2:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m. Guided tours Sat 11:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Sun 11:00 a.m. Closed on Tuesdays, Wednesday mornings.

By the water in Le Havre

If you love the sea, there are plenty of places to walk close to the water in and around the port of Le Havre. Stroll along the Bassin de Commerce, the harbour front, cruise port, the marinas and the beach promenade which comes alive in summer with pop-up bars and restaurants. My sister also enjoyed a visit to Les Bains des Docks, a modern public baths and spa, with pools, sauna, jets and leisure facilities that sounded amazing.

View of Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

View of Le Havre and Bassin de Commerce

On the cliffs at Etretat

A 40 minute drive north along the coast from Le Havre is the small seaside town of Etretat with a pebble beach. The white cliffs of the Alabaster coast extend at the edge of town, where you can get the famous views of the sea arch la falaise d’aval and the seascapes loved by the impressionist painters.

Cliffs arch at Etretat in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cliffs arch at Etretat

On the cliff tops where there’s a car park you can walk around the pretty chapel of Notre Dame de la Garde, with cow head gargoyles along one side that match the Normandy cows munching contentedly in the fields. The original chapel was destroyed in WW2 so what you see is a reconstruction built in the 1950s, and unfortunately wasn’t opened when we visited so I couldn’t look inside.

Chapel de Notre Dame at Etretat in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Chapel de Notre Dame at Etretat

From the chapel, paths lead along the cliff top and down to some of the hidden beaches under the cliffs that earn this the name of Alabaster coast. It was quite windy on the cliff top and I didn’t dare go much closer to the edge for fear of being blown over!

Cliffs at Etretat in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cliffs at Etretat

Behind the chapel is another monument known as L’Oiseau blanc that commemorates the transatlantic flight from Paris to New York in 1930 of Costes and Belmonte. They had been preceded in 1927 by Charles Linderberg who being the first (and American) is of course the one to be remembered. However there were six unsuccessful attempts before his and four of these disappeared into the Atlantic, never to be seen again.

On the cliffs at Etretat in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

On the cliffs at Etretat

After our wander along the cliff top we drove down to the small town of Etretat which was full of charming houses, bars and restaurants. There were just a few people strolling around and walking on the pebble beach but I imagine that it is packed in summer.

If you visit Etretat by car, you may like to also stop at Manoir de Cateuil at Valaine close by, a farm where they make cider, keep goats and sell cheese and goats milk ice cream as well as delicious chocolates which we tried – check the website for more information.

Beach at Etretat in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Beach at Etretat

If you go: Etretat is a 40 minute drive north from Le Havre on the D940 and there is a car park on top of the cliff. You can also take the No 24 bus from Le Havre which runs a few times a day.

Try the Normandy cuisine at Le Havre

If you’d like to try some of the traditional dishes of Normandy – often based on cheese, cream, cider and calvados, I can highly recommend Le Bouchon Normande in Le Havre where we had dinner one evening (77 Rue Louis Brindeau). The restaurant has a cheerful bistro atmosphere with a menu of homely dishes that use the best of the local ingredients from the nearby market and the surrounding region. There are a wide range of choices from soupe de poisson and terrine de campagne to escargot (snails), tête de veau (brains) and tripe if you really insist. And of course there will be at least one desert that includes the famous Normandy apples in one form or another.

The Sunday market at Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

The Sunday market at Le Havre

For food shopping in Le Havre, the covered market is open daily from 10am and well worth a visit to drool at the selection of ripe fromage, charcuterie and chocolat. On Sunday morning there’s also a street-market surrounding the market hall where we found even more delicious specialities like these Coeur de Neufchâtel heart shaped cheeses which the local ladies used to award to the soldiers and a sign of their favour. Since we were travelling home on Brittany Ferries there was no issue with space and we stocked up with a few delicacies of cheese, saucisson and Normandy cider to take back and enjoy.

Food in the Market at Le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Food in the Market at Le Havre

Normandy Cooking

For a real taste of Normandy, France we spent a morning at the country house outside Le Havre of Chef Régine who runs cookery classes as well as a “Chef Chez Vous” service where she will come and cook for your group or party.

Cookery class Chez Regine near Le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cookery class Chez Regine near Le Havre

Donning our chef’s hats we were able to try out some of the traditional dishes that Régine had recreated from the recipe books of Claud Monet who lived nearby at Giverny. Most delicious was the cheese soufflé made with gruyere, cream and nutmeg followed by the Chicken Honfleur with chicken poached in a creamy sauce of butter, wine and calvados with a scattering of piquant capers.

Cookery class and lunch near Le Havre in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cookery class and lunch near Le Havre

Lunch was served at a long table in Régine’s elegant conservatory clothed in vines and lemon trees, while we imagined ourselves to be living the rural French lifestyle that Monet might have enjoyed amidst his gardens at Giverny.

Apple tart with salt caramel sauce in Normandy Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Apple tart with salt caramel sauce

The piece de resistance was the Apple Giverny tart, a round of buttery shortbread topped with apple pieces cooked in butter and a most delicious salted butter caramel sauce. As you can tell those Normandy cows have a lot to answer for! We all came away vowing to recreate that desert and luckily Régine provided us with the recipe so I can share it with you.

Apple Giverny Tart
To make the caramel sauce mix in a saucepan 100g caster sugar and 3 soupspoons of water, add 100 salted butter cut in pieces and heat gently, adding 40cl cream slowly. Bring to the boil then turn down the heat and cook gently until thickened. Serve with the apple tart made with a shortcrust base topped with small cubes of apple that have been gently cooked in butter with a sprinkling of vanilla sugar.

Chef Régine can be contacted through Chef Chez Vous

Heather and her sister at Le Havre in France Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Heather and her sister at Le Havre

Our weekend in Le Havre ended as we boarded the Portsmouth ferry late on Sunday afternoon for the sailing home, just as the sun was setting over the harbour. After a five hour crossing with a few drinks and a nice supper, we arrived back in Portsmouth later that evening. Our weekend with Brittany Ferries had proved that the channel ports like Le Havre are far more than a gateway to your holiday in France. They are weekend destinations in their own right, offering delicious food, fascinating history, impressionist art, refreshing walks by the sea and all in an easy hop across the channel. Who needs to fly?

Have you ever visited Le Havre and if so were you just passing through? Perhaps you’ll be tempted to go back and explore? Do let me know in the comments!

Read more about Le Havre and Brittany

Lines of Escape: A winter sun weekend in Le Havre
Mrs Ayla’s Adventure: A weekend discovering Le Havre
Heather on her travels: A Road trip through Brittany and Normandy
Heather on her travels: Gone fishing for crabs in Brittany

For more information

To plan your weekend break in Le Havre visit the Le Havre Tourisme website and follow them on social media: Twitter | Facebook| Instagram | Youtube

You can find more about the wider region on the Normandy Tourism website: Twitter| Facebook| Google+|YouTube | Pinterest

Plan your ferry to Le Havre with Brittany Ferries who sail from Portsmouth to Le Havre, Caen, St Malo, and from Poole to Cherbourg and from Plymouth to Roscoff and St Malo. Connect on Social Media | Twitter | FacebookPinterest | Youtube | Blog

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Read my weekend guide to le Havre: delicious food, impressionist art and walks by the sea

Where to stay in Le Havre

Novotel Le Havre Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Novotel Le Havre

We enjoyed a very comfortable stay at the 4 star Novotel which is a short distance from the ferry port and the train station. The 134 room hotel is modern in style and we had a spacious bedroom on the first floor with an extremely comfortable mattresses. There was a good breakfast buffet and a tram stop close by to reach the centre of town, although we could also have walked. Novtel Le Havre, 20 Cours La Fayette, Quai Colbert, 76600, Le Havre, France. Compare prices and book for hotels in Le Havre here

Leaving Le Havre on Brittany Ferries Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Leaving Le Havre on Brittany Ferries

Getting to le Havre on Brittany Ferries

Heather and Jillian travelled on Brittany Ferries who sail daily to Le Havre as well as a number of other ports in Brittany and Normandy. The ferries from Portsmouth sail daily in winter at 23.15 arriving at 8.00 the next morning and returns from Le Havre at 17.15 or 22.00 with more sailings in high season. Travelling as a foot passenger on the Le Havre Ferry with an en suite cabin both ways would cost around £100 per person or £140 per person if taking the car (based on 2 people sharing).

We sailed on board the Etretat, with a bar, lounge and small cinema as well as a self service restaurant with excellent food. Check the Brittany Ferries website for more information and to book your crossing.

Cabin on Brittany ferries Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cabin on Brittany ferries

Thanks to le Havre Tourism and Brittany Ferries who hosted Heather and her sister for a weekend break in Le Havre.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read the original article here

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Wine tasting in the Moselle region of Luxembourg – with St Willibrod’s blessing!

From the wall of the Moselle Valley winery in Luxembourg, the figure of St Willibrod looks down at me, his three fingers raised. In this corner of Europe, St Willibrod is seen as the protector of the grapes and his three raised fingers mean; “drink three glasses a day and you will be fine”!

Wine tasting Moselle Valley Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

The growers here know that saintly patronage plus nearly 2000 years of expertise will ensure the continued success of wines from Luxembourg. History, tradition and continuous dedication from family businesses are as constant as the Moselle River that runs between the vineyards.

You can also read about our gourmet walking tour of Luxembourg Old Town here

St Willibrod in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

St Willibrod in Luxembourg

If you have an interest in wine you’ll know of the Moselle river that forms the border between Luxembourg and Germany. You’ll probably also know the grapes; Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and for the specialist the intriguing Elbling, Rivaner and Auxerrois.

But almost nobody has heard of Luxembougois wine, since 66% of the annual production is sold within Northern France, Germany and Belgium, where fine food and wines are truly appreciated. The Luxembourgois I meet over our long weekend are, for good reason, very supportive of the wines produced in the Grand Duchy.

The Wine Museum in the Moselle Valley Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

The Wine Museum at Ehnen in the Moselle Valley

Our wine tasting tour of the Moselle valley begins at the wine museum in Ehnen where we look around the old stone buildings and barns, filled with agricultural implements that were once used in the cultivation of the vineyards. The figure of a lady is dressed in the costume of yesteryear, with her basket ready to hoist on her back and drop in the bunches of grapes as they are picked.

At the Wine Museum in the Moselle Valley Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Heather at the Wine Museum in the Moselle Valley of Luxembourg at Ehnen

At the back of the buildings, vines are planted to show us the different varieties and the shell of a tiny helicopter, once used for crop spraying, sits like a relic from a James Bond film.

Guy with the Helicopter at the Wine museum Ehnen in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Guy with the Helicopter at the Wine museum Ehnen in Luxembourg

At the Domaines Vinsmoselle we enjoy meeting Stephen De Roy, a gentleman of extraordinary knowledge who guides tours at the winery. Founded in 1921, Domaines Vinsmoselle encompasses more than 300 winemakers who sell their grapes to the business, producing rich and varied wines with distinct flavours. Spread over 42 kilometres along the Moselle, the Luxembourg vineyards produce mainly white wines, with a particularly mild microclimate and a rainfall that is spread evenly over the year.

Moselle wine facts

  • Phylloxera disease was introduced to Europe when avid botanists in Victorian England collected specimens of American vines in the 1850s. When the disease struck the European vines, school boys were despatched to remove the aphids and galls on the affected vines.
  • Belgium used to grow its own vines but Napoleon had them all destroyed in 1804 to protect the French market.
  • In the expansion of the processing plant at Domaines Vinsmoselle, a Roman frieze depicting grape production was unearthed dating from AD 800 – the Romans loved good wines too!
Wine Tasting in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Heather tries the Cremant sparkling wine in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg

During our wine tasting we learn the differences between a Pinot Noir “élevé en barrique” (aged in an oak barrel ) and one aged in a stainless steel tank. Stephen comments “ If I want to taste oak I go to the forest. Why do I want oak in my wine?” 

Grapes in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Grapes in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg

A big speciality of the Moselle region is the sparkling Cremant, a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous Prosecco we often drink at home. We sample the secret distillation of spirit, which when added to the Reisling produces the delicious Cremant sparkling wine, that is also available in many different grape varieties.

For non-drinkers there’s a fresh grape juice called Tam Tam, which paradoxically is made from only the finest grapes, since there is no fermentation to remove the taste of bruised or bad grapes which you can get away with even in the grandest of the grand crus.

Cremant Sparkling Wine in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Cremant Sparkling Wine in the Moselle Region of Luxembourg

When we ask Stephen for his favourite wine he is quick with his choice, a 2009 Riesling from the Charte Schengen prestige brand. The only grapes used are from vines over 30 years old, with roots up to 40 metres deep, on the steep and ordered slopes that run down to the Moselle river.

These come from just twelve selected growers in close proximity to the winery, including four growers from France, four from Luxembourg and four from Germany. In this multi-national wine co-operation we are reminded that the Grand Duchy was a founder member of NATO, and the Schengen agreement covering free movement within Europe’s borders was signed in 1985 just down the road from here.

Boat Trip Along the Moselle River in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Boat Trip along the Moselle River in Luxembourg

Although we don’t have time to visit the European Museum in Schengen we do see a little of the town from the river, when we take a Moselle boat trip from Remich, to while away a rainy Sunday morning.

Barbecue at Winery Pundel in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Gourmet Barbecue at Winery Pundel in Luxembourg

There’s another opportunity to try the 2013 Riesling from Charte Schengen at dinner that evening when we enjoy a gastronomic barbeque at the winery Pundel. It’s known as the king of wines in Luxembourg and is sensational, with a balanced bouquet of citrus fruits, apricot, apple, peach, pear and lime with notes of eucalyptus and bizarrely, petrol.

The Pundel winery is a modern glass building and from the rooftop terrace where dinner is served we have a fabulous view of the vines running down to the river. Sadly it’s raining tonight so we collect our dinner of steak and seafood brochets from the gourmet barbeque and head inside to help ourselves to salads and side dishes.

Firework Display at the Grevenmacher Wine Festival Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Firework Display at Grevenmacher Wine Festival in Luxembourg

Our wine tasting tour of the Moselle Valley ends with an evening at the Grape and Wine festival at Grevenmacher further along the river. We wander from one end of the high street to the other, past the stages playing rock music to appreciative teenagers, past the stands selling every kind of local wine and stopping for a late night snack of sugary waffle piled high with cream. We follow the parade of marching bands, headed by the princess of the wine festival and her attendants, who are chosen from local families, before watching the grand finale firework display over the Moselle river.

As we leave the Moselle Valley of Luxembourg to head home, I’m quite prepared to adopt St Willibrod’s motto of three glasses a day in the interests of good health and wellbeing. With a glass of Luxembourg sparkling cremant or vintage Riesling in my hand I’ll happily raise a glass and drink to that!

More articles about Luxembourg

Read about our Gourmet walking tour of Luxembourg Old Town
From LuxeAdventureTraveler: Unexpected Luxembourg: Fine wines and fabulous food

Where to stay in the Moselle Valley of Luxembourg

Heather and Guy stayed in the Villa Welcome annex of the Mondorf Parc Hotel, a leading spa hotel in Mondorf-les-bains. We had a very comfortable modern suite with a large bedroom, separate seating area and en suite shower room. The Villa Welcome was a short walk from the main hotel building where we had breakfast and guests can make use of all the hotel facilities.

Bedroom at Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Bedroom at Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg

The main hotel building is quite modern but the angular design softened by plenty of large glass windows  looking out onto beautifully maintained gardens with seasonal floral displays.

Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg

The hotel is well known for its spa, with warm indoor and outdoor pools that are fed from the thermal springs that have a high mineral content for good health and wellbeing. The spa can also be visited for the day, if you are staying in the area and want an opportunity to relax and unwind. There is plenty of parking space at the hotel and the bus stop is situated on the road just outside the hotel, with connections to Luxembourg city.

Compare prices and book for Hotel Mondorf on my Hotels Booking Page (powered by Hotelscombined.com)

Hotel Mondorf Domaine Thermale, 52 Avenue des Bains, Mondorf-les-Bains, Luxembourg. Website: www.mondorf.lu | Twitter | Facebook |

Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Hotel Mondorf in Luxembourg

Looking for Airport Parking?

Heather used the Meet and Greet Parking Service at Heathrow, booked through Airport Parking and Hotels (APH) who offer airport parking at a range of airports across the UK as well as travel extras such as airport lounge booking and airport hotel stays.

Visitor Information for a wine tour of the Moselle Valley in Luxembourg

For more information to plan your visit to Luxembourg check out the Visit Luxembourg Website | Twitter | Facebook | Google+

For more information on the Moselle Region of Luxembourg check out www.visitmoselle.lu  | Facebook

The wine museum is at 115 route du Vin, Ehnen, Luxembourg. Website: www.museevin.lu Open daily April – October

Domaines Vinsmoselle – Caves de Wellenstein at 37, rue des Calves, Wellenstein, Luxembourg. Website: www.vinsmoselle.lu. Guided tours of the Caves are available by arrangement May-October €6 per person including a glass of wine.

We took a boat trip on the Moselle river from Remich with Navitours. Website:  www.navitours.lu. The tour took 1 hr 45 and took us down to Shengen and back to Remich. Most of those on board were having a buffet lunch for €45 per person although we opted for the cheaper €15 ticket without lunch and just had a snack in the bar area.

Our gastronomic barbeque was at winery Pundel at Wormeldange-Haut. Website: www.pundel-vinspurs.lu The winery is open for special events through the summer season which can be booked in advance. Check the website for more details.

We visited the Grevenmacher 66th Grape and Wine Festival on 11 September 2015. For more information check their website: www.grevenmacher.org

Read More: You can also read about our gourmet walking tour of Luxembourg Old Town

Thanks to Visit Luxembourg who hosted Heather and Guy’s weekend stay in Luxembourg

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Read about Wine tasting in the Mosell Valley Luxembourg

This article by Heather Cowper is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read the original article here

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How to choose the perfect waterproof jacket for your hiking holiday

We’d done the whole Tour de Mont Blanc together, sharing the views from the high mountain passes, sheltering from the odd summer shower. We’d walked the dry stone route in Mallorca although admittedly most of the time was spent at the bottom of my rucksack. But now, after years of hiking adventures together, my waterproof jacket was looking a bit tired.  All good things come to an end and as my old jacket headed off with my daughter on her travels, it was time to find a new lightweight rain jacket for my next hiking trip to Austria.

How to choose the perfect Waterproof Jacket Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

With all outdoor clothing, I like to have a good look around a specialist store like my local Ellis Brigham in Bristol, where I can try on plenty of different styles and pick the brains of the knowledgeable staff. Over the years I’ve learned there are a few things to consider when choosing the best waterproof jacket for your hiking holiday. When you’re caught up the mountain in a downpour, you’ll be glad you took the time to make the right choice so here are a few things to consider;

View from Seefelder spitz in Austria Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

View from Seefelder spitz in Austria

How does the jacket fit?

Call me vain but I do appreciate a jacket that fits well, for both comfort and good looks. It’s worth trying on a few different womens waterproof jackets in the store as different companies may fit you better than others and since I’m no longer a stick insect I’m always looking for a flattering fit. If you anticipate the extremes of heat and cold that you get when hiking at altitude, you’ll want to allow room to layer t-shirts and fleece under your jacket. On the other hand a jacket that is oversized or flaps around is not a great look. I also like a jacket that is not too short and falls around my hips, so I won’t be revealing any flesh when I bend over to lace up my boots. I’ve noticed that the better quality (and therefore more expensive) jackets may offer a more tapered fit that is more flattering.

View from Seefelder spitz in Austria Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

View from Seefelder spitz in Austria

Those little design features

Look out for additional features in your jacket that might be worth paying a little more for. For example most quality hiking jackets will have zips under the arms that you can open for ventilation, if you get a hot and sweaty, without having to take off the jacket. You may also notice a breast or sleeve pocket which could be useful for storing small items such as your phone, tissues or lipsalve. The hoods on a more expensive jacket may have extra features like a visor or adjustable elastic drawstrings to keep the rain from dripping onto your face. Other useful features to look out for are a hood that zips away into the collar and 2 way zips that open from the bottom and the top.

Tete Nord de Fours on the Tour de Mont Blanc Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Tete Nord de Fours on the Tour de Mont Blanc

How light is your jacket?

Depending on the time of year that you plan to do most of your walking, you should consider the best weight for your waterproof jacket. My annual hiking trips with my friend Julia have mostly been in August and September when the weather is sunny and warm. This means that my jacket needs to pack up small, since most of the time it stays in my rucksack, only coming out on chilly mornings, at higher altitudes or during the occasional shower. I know I can always layer my lightweight waterproof jacket with a long sleeved t-shirt or fleece for extra warmth if the weather closes in.

If you are hiking in Europe in the spring and autumn however, you’ll probably be wearing your jacket most of the time, at least at the beginning and end of the day, until the sunshine and walking warms you up. In this case I might look for a jacket that has a bit more substance, or perhaps one that has a removable lining for extra versatility.

Climbing the Piccolo Cir Via Ferrata in Val Gardena South Tyrol Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Climbing the Piccolo Cir Via Ferrata in Val Gardena South Tyrol

The waterproof fabric

The fabric that’s used in your jacket is a big factor in the price you pay and depending on your hiking requirement you may need a higher technical performance. At the entry level you often find cheaper waterproof fabrics that are combined with a mesh lining. These jackets are perfectly waterproof but they may not be as breathable as the higher priced technical fabrics. The inside layer may feel clammy against the skin once you get walking and work up a sweat, so these are better for situations where you’ll be wearing another layer under the jacket.

As you move up the price scale you’ll see branded fabrics, the best known of which is GORE-TEX. These fabrics offer much greater breathability, so you don’t get that clammy, sweaty feeling as you heat up or cool down. The standard GORE-TEX jackets are durable, waterproof and windproof for everyday wear. They also offer an Active range designed for higher intensity sport offering a lighter fabric with greater breathability, and a Pro range which is more durable for skiers and mountaineers. Some manufacturers have their own proprietary breathable, waterproof fabrics that do a similar job to GORE-TEX – there’s a useful guide on the Ellis Brigham website. Because there are a wide range of different options in terms of weight and breathability, and the technical performance comes at a price, it’s worth calling on the expertise of the shop staff to explain these options to you.

My waterproof jacket is great for walks in the Wye Valley Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

My waterproof jacket is great for walks in the Wye Valley

My choice of waterproof jacket

So what did I choose? After trying on plenty of different jackets I settled on the Patagonia Torrentshell from Ellis Brigham which cost £109. Surprise Surprise it’s practically the same as my old jacket!

Although I tried on a lot of brightly coloured jackets I concluded that neutral white would work with more of my wardrobe and so I’d be able to wear the jacket around Bristol as well as on my hiking trips. I was also impressed by the Ellis Brigham Service, since they were able to order a few different jackets from their catalogue so that I could try them in my local store at no extra charge.

My new waterproof jacket is very light and packs up small. Although it’s not the most expensive of the range in terms of fabric, it was perfect for my walking holiday in Austria where I wore it occasionally on the cool mornings or when we got to a highpoint like Seefelder Spitz which was cooler and a little windy.

Have fun choosing your waterproof jacket and even more fun on your next hiking trip!

Thanks to Ellis Brigham who provided me with my Patagonia Torrentshell Jacket for the purposes of this article. Heather travelled to Austria with Headwater Holidays – you can read about her adventures here.

Day 1 – A high mountain walk (and a tumble) in the Gaistal Valley of Austria

Day 2 – Hiking in Austria – the views from the cross at Seefleder Spitze

Day 3 – Hiking in Austria – a Rifleman’s Parade and Mental Power Walk at Seefeld

More hiking gear info:

What equipment do you need for hiking in Europe?
How my Leki Micro Vario walking poles saved my legs on the Tour de Mont Blanc
How to choose the perfect hiking boots for the Tour de Mont Blanc (and other mountain trails)

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Waterproof Jacket

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read the original article here

Click to subscribe to our monthly newsletter, news and reader offers

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You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

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