A lacklustre lunch at Pepe’s Byblos Fishing Club – in Lebanon
January 13, 2010 by admin
On my road trip around Lebanon with a friend in June, we stopped at Byblos for a tour of the Crusader Castle and lunch at the famous Byblos Fishing Club. The Byblos Fishing Club, otherwise known as Pepe’s is the restaurant and bar that attracted the beautiful people such as David Niven and Bridget Bardot in the 60s and has been dining out on it’s reputation ever since.
Lunch at Byblos Fishing Club in Lebanon
As we knew it was where everyone who was anyone stopped for lunch, and it was even raved about in our Lonely Planet (must write to them about that) we made a beeline for it without further thought but found it rather a lacklustre experience. The restaurant is pretty enough in that Greek Taverna meets Italian-neighbourhood-joint kind of way, with the blue painted chairs, fishing paraphanalia and the countless photos of the stars on the walls. It does have a great location overlooking the pretty harbour that could have been in any Spanish or Italian seaside town, with the fishing boats and yachts bobbing up and dpwn and the blue sea and sky beyond.
Byblos Fishing Club Restaurant in Byblos, Lebanon
But somehow the sparkle was lacking, the service seemed a bit sleepy and the whole place lacked the joie de vivre and personality that made it famous. Pepe Abed, who was the owner in it’s heyday and made every day at the restaurant a party for the rich and famous, has now departed to the great fishing boat in the sky and the place is run by his son and grandson, who trade heavily on Pepe’s name. We had the typical selection of mezze to start with and some grilled fish which was all fine, but we found it a little overpriced and over-hyped.
 View of the harbour from Byblos Fishing Club |
 Byblos Fishing club in Lebanon |
When we mentioned Pepe’s to local winemaker we met, he immediately recommended a string of much better places in Byblos including the Bab el Mina restaurant next door, which has equally fine views over the harbour and where the fish is more moderately priced. Next time I go to Byblos, I’ll take the advice of a local and take a bit more time to explore the other restaurant options.
Have you ever been to somewhere with a big reputation that didn’t meet up to expectations?
This is posted as part of Wanderfood Wednesday over at Wanderlust and lipstick – head over for some glazed croissants and other foodie delights
Read other articles about Lebanon
Meet the winemakers at Chateau Musar in Lebanon
The Cedars of Lebanon – Tannourine Cedars Reserve – video
Mezze Memories in Lebanon
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Anil on Wed, 13th Jan 2010 11:57 am
Seems like a downer. I’m trying to think of some travel disappointments but none come immediately to mind. Maybe I just filter those out in my memory since the pleasant surprises are so much easier to recall.
Myscha Theriault on Wed, 13th Jan 2010 4:16 pm
Sorry lunch was so hum drum, as I’ve always remembered excellent service everywhere I went in Lebanon. I do remember Byblos fondly, although we didn’t eat there that day but in the mountains instead as I recall. Phenomenal country though, yes?
Liv on Wed, 13th Jan 2010 7:18 pm
I hate it when places don’t live up to the expectation! Maybe that’s the curse of being written up in a famous travel guide; an overload of customers inevitably leads to a decline in service.
Another such downer? Grimaldi’s pizza in Brooklyn. The pizza is still delicious, but the lunch line is about an hour long and the clientele seems to be almost entirely made up of tourists. Not quite a typical Brooklyn experience anymore – more like Disneyworld. Sigh.
jessiev on Wed, 13th Jan 2010 8:37 pm
what a drag – but the photos are lovely!! that reminds me to always ask a local before setting out, eh?!
Wanderluster on Thu, 14th Jan 2010 4:47 am
Great reminder to ask the locals first (though sometimes they DO direct you to the popular place they think you want to go to).
I always think of these experiences as a reason to return to a place.
Jess on Thu, 14th Jan 2010 8:03 pm
Wow, one didn’t realise just how gorgeous this location was.
Food looks fantastic to, & I’m all in for trying great new locations. Just wanted to thank your good self for blogging & bringing such wonders to light – keep up the great work… :O)
Regards,
Jess
Mark H on Thu, 14th Jan 2010 9:19 pm
Maybe it is my suspicious nature but my guard is always up against places that trade on who has eaten there, sometimes many years ago. I feel that I am likely to be paying for the privelege that some president or film star or footballer has eaten there in the past. That may have cost some good meals but has probably also saved some disappointments. Saying all that, your photos capture what looks to be a beautiful area so suited to a casual seafood lunch.
arlene on Tue, 19th Jan 2010 12:20 am
When I saw the pictures I was getting ready to hear about something yummy coming. Being a food experimenter, local food in a place is always of great importance to me when I go anywhere. I’d have figured family continuing the business would have gone all out to keep up the good reputation.
admin on Tue, 19th Jan 2010 8:29 am
@Arlene There wasn’t anything especially bad about Pepe’s, it just didn’t have any sparkle at the time we visited, perhaps it would have been more lively in the evening. We felt it was living on its reputation, & charging us a premium for that.
Wojtek on Wed, 12th May 2010 8:41 am
I remember Pepe and his gorgous Fishing Club when I served at UNIFIL in Lebanon in 1997/98 as an Assistant Food Officer.
I was there several times. I remember that special, unique & cosy atmosphere, I have a beautiful snap with Pepe when we sit together by the table…
“Those were the days my friend….”
May Good God save Pepe’s soul and bless his son, the successor of Pepe the Great !!!!
Maybe some day I’ll visit Lebanon again and of course Pepe’s Fishing Club !
Wojtek
Płock, POLOGNE
admin on Sat, 15th May 2010 6:09 pm
@ Wojtek – I’m glad you have such good memories of Pepe’s – I’ve heard that it really did buzz when he was still running the show
The ruins of an ancient town at Byblos in Lebanon | Heather on her travels on Fri, 21st May 2010 10:01 pm
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Marie jose Abed on Sat, 26th Jun 2010 4:13 pm
hi
i Was just reading the review done on Byblos fishing club dated January 2010, and i would like to reply to the writter on few points which i found personaly a bit dissapointing coming from a journalist i assume or else it wouldnt have ben published on ur esteemed website:
Before going through the points, i would like to thank the writter for visiting our historical place and city!
now regarding the review, below my reply:
1- The comment on the service that is sleepy/slow is a bit too lame from ur end, specially that it seems you did not get the spirit of byblos nor the experience that ur suppose to enjoy which rather is a quiet, peaceful lunch on the harbor specially day time or else we could have served you and let you go in 20mns but whats the points behind that??.
2- if u felt that the place lacked the “joie de vivre” and i can only assume becoz u tried it before and it was different, its for the very simple reason that December / January is the memorial of my grand dad Pepe, thus we are not really in a party mood!
3- Regarding the price, of course if u wana eat frozen fish u can have them anywhere for cheaper cost, but at Byblos Fishing Club we only serve the best fresh food even if it cost you more, in both cases, you had the chance to check the price list before ordering didnt you?! anyway if u want shop for Gucci u dont go to GAP!Am sure u understand what i mean.If after more than 50 years the place is still up and running and fully booked througout the year it must be for a good reason am sure!
Finaly, i would suggest For next time, please try to meet the owner of the place wherever you go before writting ur reviews coz i kind of question ur credibility now.
Regards
MJ
Georges on Sat, 26th Jun 2010 5:10 pm
I been visiting pepe for sooo many years and its still great if not it improved as well with the new generation!
the museum is amazing as well in that place! love it as it is so as my family!
julian on Sat, 26th Jun 2010 5:13 pm
lovely place and veryyyyyyyy fair prices!
Jose abed on Sat, 26th Jun 2010 6:02 pm
i am verry happy that you liked the food,the decoration and location of the restaurant the 3 major things to make a restaurant succesfull!
Second as a reporter i think your readers deserves more concrete feedback:posting the bill you paid at Pepe’s compared to other sea food restaurant in that same area, as i dnt think and am sure all readers will agree with me, that 22 us dollars per person is not overpriced for a full seafood menu, which is our set menu since 1998!
Finally for the joie de vivre, byblos is and was always a calm, serene and romantic location and that is the same reason why all big and famous celebrities visited and loved byblos fishing club whether they were a couple or a family, everyone enjoys it there until today such as the very famous singer Garou and Saphina who were there recently 2010 and praised our property in our golden book!!
Thanks for taking time to read my comments.
admin on Sun, 27th Jun 2010 4:22 pm
@ Marie Jose Abed
Thanks so much for your comments and I quite appreciate that I might have caught Byblos fishing club on an off day. I’m not a professional journalist but I still owe it to my readers to give an honest opinion of the places I go and how I personally find them.
I think that the restaurant has such a reputation from the time when your grandfather was alive, that it’s difficult to match the high expectations that people may have.
I loved the setting of the restaurant, but the article I wrote reflected how I personally found it on the day I visited. Other visitors may have a different experience at a different time of year or day.
I visited in June 2009, so I’m not sure whether your comment about Dec/Jan being the memorial of your grandfather is relevant. Also I agree that it’s better to eat the freshest fish – I found that grilled fish is quite expensive in restaurants all over Lebanon compared to European prices, which is worth knowing if you’re travelling on a budget, as there are many other great things to eat that aren’t so expensive.
Finally, on your point about making yourself known to the owner, sometimes I do, sometimes I don’t, depending what’s appropriate at the time. If you choose to just be served as any other guest in the restaurant, you are likely to get a more realistic view of what the average diner will experience.
I hope that vistors to Byblos will visit Pepes fishing club and decide for themselves.
admin on Sun, 27th Jun 2010 4:24 pm
@ George @ Julian
Thanks for your comments and so pleased you enjoyed the restaurant and Byblos
admin on Sun, 27th Jun 2010 4:31 pm
@ Jose Abed
Thanks for your comments and I’m glad that customers are coming to Byblos and to Pepes and enjoying it as much as they always did.