Nova Scotia in the early summer offered sunny days and sparkling water but not too many crowds. We’d already spent a couple of days exploring the provincial capital of Halifax, with historic attractions, harbour front walks and city buzz. Now we drove out of the city for a 3 day Nova Scotia road trip to see some other attractions.
Nova Scotia is one of the three provinces that make up Canada’s Maritime region. The ocean is never far away, with lighthouses set on the wild south shore and lobster on almost every menu. But we drove onward to Nova Scotia’s north shore we discovered a softer side to this Maritime province.
A rocky coastline gave way to the rolling vineyards of the Annapolis valley. The coast here is more sheltered in the Bay of Fundy, known for having the highest tidal range in the world, with gentle mud flats and shallow mirrors of water at low tide. Read on to discover all the fun things we enjoyed during our 3 days in Nova Scotia.
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Nova Scotia road trip – Day 1
Peggy’s Cove
Peggy’s Cove was the first stop after Halifax, one of Nova Scotia’s prettiest attractions and a magnet for the photographers. If you get one picture that epitomises Nova Scotia it has to be Peggy’s Cove lighthouse! This picture postcard fishing village is set at the entrance to St Margaret’s Bay which provides sheltered harbours and inlets for sailing boats.
The village still has working fishermen, with their lobster pots and nets piled on the shore. But many of the old fishing shacks and painted wooden houses are now charming gift shops and artists studios. Entering the village we found a visitor centre and car park, then walked down the hill towards the cove.
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Peggy’s Cove sits on a bed of grey white granite, which becomes obvious when you reach the lighthouse. On this windswept shore, the houses stand alone and compact, with steeply pitched roofs to prevent snow building up in winter. If you need accommodation near Peggy’s Cove you are probably best to stay as we did in one of the hotels in Halifax.
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Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
On our way to the lighthouse, we stopped at U-Cook Lobster. The mobile lobster van is parked to teach visitors how to cook and eat lobster (which can be tricky if you don’t know how!) We got a chance to handle the lobsters with the claws safely secured, although we didn’t cook or eat any since we were too early for lunch. So our lucky lobster lived for another day.
Continuing down the road, we reached the lighthouse, only 10 minutes walk away. We spent a while walking over the rocks and around the iconic lighthouse which is the most photographed in Canada.
If you don’t have a car, this day tour around Halifax also includes an excursion to Peggy’s Cove, with time to look around.
It’s a pretty spot to sit with a picnic. But be sure to stay clear of any wet rocks by the seashore as rogue waves can wash up suddenly. There are several art galleries and shops as well as The Sou’Wester restaurant set just above the lighthouse, where naturally lobster and seafood is a specialty.
More info: Peggy’s Cove Region | Allow 1-2 hours for your visit | Driving time from Halifax to Peggy’s Cove is 45 min on Route 333
Mahone Bay – a great coffee stop
Continuing from Peggy’s cove towards Lunenburg along the South Shore, we passed through the pretty town of Mahone Bay. It’s a good place to stop for coffee or lunch on your Nova Scotia 3 day itinerary. For a postcard photo, take a shot of Mahone Bay from across the water as you drive into town, where you can see the three churches all in a row, their spires reflected in the water of the bay.
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This historic settlement has plenty of pretty old houses from the 1800s when fishing and shipbuilding flourished in the sheltered bay. The Mi’kmaq people lived here, but from the 1750s the British colonised the area, encouraging settlers from Germany and Switzerland to come and make a new life here.
Old buildings have been converted to cafes and gift shops and we took a break here for a quick bite to eat at Jo-Ann’s Deli and Bakery. There’s plenty of parking along the waterfront and behind some of the businesses, so it makes an easy stop on your Nova Scotia road trip. If you’d like to stay in Mahone Bay, take a look at these charming guest houses available.
Stay at the Kitch’inn Boutique Inn and Wine Bar in Mahone Bay
More info: Visit Mahone Bay website | Allow around 1 hour for a quick visit | Driving time from Peggy’s Cove to Mahone Bay 1 hr 5 mins
Lunenburg – historic fishing port
From Mahone bay, it didn’t take long to arrive in Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its well preserved old houses and ship-building heritage. This is certainly a place you could stay for a few days, with lots of interesting small shops, waterfront cafes, foodie experiences and the Fisheries Museum on the waterfront.
We started our visit with an excellent Essential Lunenburg tour from Lunenburg Walking Tours, starting at the Lunenburg Academy, originally the town’s high school but now under renovation to become a community and arts centre.
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The colourful houses of Lunenburg
Walking through the oldest part of town, we passed the modest cabins built by German settlers on an ordered grid system. These original cottages, now renovated and painted are very much sought after.
Our guide Ashlee from Lunenburg Walking Tours, an eighth generation Lunenburger, told us that the fashion for the more vibrant coloured houses is quite recent. The traditional colour was black and white, since these paint colours were easily available in the shipyards.
St John’s Anglican church was one of the stops, a Lunenburg landmark that had been virtually destroyed in a fire in 2001. Despite the devastation, the church was faithfully restored in a 4 year rebuilding project that cost over $6 million CAD. It now stands in its full glory, surrounded by a village green.
We really enjoyed the walking tour of Lunenburg which gave us so many stories and insights into the town’s history – you can book the same tour with Lunenburg walking tours here.
Blue Nose II in Lunenburg
Further down the hill on the waterfront, we admired Blue Nose II, a replica of the famous schooner built in Lunenburg. After winning the prestigious Fisherman’s Race in 1921 she became a Canadian icon, even featuring on the Canadian 10 cents coin. The schooners were fishing boats built for speed, since the first ship to return to port from the Grand Banks fishing grounds would achieve the best price for their catch.
In 1946 the original Blue Nose foundered on a reef, but the people of Lunenburg felt such affection, that a replica Blue Nose II was built in 1963. The ship is now a Nova Scotia sailing ambassador, offering the chance for young Canadians to join the crew for 6 months at a time and learn about sailing.
Just along the waterfront is the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Its red painted warehouses now exhibit collections from the early Mi’kmaq fishermen to the present day. We especially enjoyed going on board some of the old fishing boats on the wharf that are part of the museum.
On the Cape Sable we chatted to one of the retired fisherman who volunteer at the museum. Looking around the rather spartan living quarters on board the trawler we concluded there’s not much luxury to be found on a fishing boat!
Stay at the Sail Inn near the waterfront in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
More info: Explore Lunenburg | Driving time from Peggy’s Cove to Lunenburg 1hr 20 mins
Stay at The Brigantine Inn in Lunenburg
Our one night stay was spent at the Brigantine Inn, a charming guest house overlooking the Lunenburg waterfront. The guest rooms are on the two upper floors with the Grand Banker Bar and Grill at waterfront level. HMS Rose was the name of our comfortable room, after the replica in our room of the 18th century Royal Navy Frigate built in Lunenburg.
From our bedroom at the Brigantine Inn, we could relax in the easy chair in the bay window offering a perfect view of the waterfront. Such windows on old houses looking out to sea are known as the widow’s watch, where wives might wait anxiously for the return of their husband’s fishing boats.
Stay on the waterfront at the Brigantine Inn located in Old Town Lunenburg
Dinner at The Grand Banker Bar and Grill
The Grand Banker Bar and Grill, where we ate in the evening, specialises in seafood. Choose from chowder, seafood stew, fish cakes, scallops and of course lobster on the menu.
The bar is also known for its wide selection of craft beers with live beers on tap. Owner Adam is a professional sommelier who told us that he hopes to start his own brewery. The Grand Banker is closed in the mornings, so we took our breakfast next door at the pretty Savvy Sailor Cafe.
Nova Scotia Road Trip – Day 2
Hall’s Lobster pound
Our 3 day itinerary in Nova Scotia took us next to Hall’s Harbour, a small fishing hamlet located in the Bay of Fundy. This protected bay is known for the highest tidal range in the world, with a 40 feet or more variation between low and high tide.
The tide was high when we visited, but it flows in and out of the basin twice daily. At low tide the fishing boats rest on the muddy bottom at low tide.
We planned to stop for lunch at Hall’s Harbour Lobster pound since seafood and lobsters are a BIG thing in Nova Scotia. A lobster pound is where lobsters are brought in from the fishing boats to be sorted and then sent out to the seafood restaurants of Canada.
In the UK we think of lobster as an expensive delicacy. But we discovered that in the past the lobsters were so plentiful here that they could be gathered on the shore. A generation or two ago lobsters were considered a poor man’s food, and children would rather be sent to school with a spam sandwich than a lobster roll!
Our tour of the lobster pound demonstrated how the lobsters are brought in from all over Nova Scotia. They are held in sea water pools, before being sized, sorted and sent to fish markets all over the world. Holding the giant lobster was a little unnerving, even though its claws were safely taped up, to avoid any risk of losing a finger!
Our Lobster Lunch
Next we tried the “Lobster in the rough” dining experience. This involves choosing your lobster, which is then sent to the cookhouse and served up to you in the restaurant. Although my paper table mat gave me full instructions on how to eat a lobster, I felt a bit apprehensive about all the claw breaking and meat picking involved, so I ordered a lobster roll instead.
Lobster roll is a typical lunchtime dish, with lobster meat mixed with mayo in a fresh bread roll, served with coleslaw and creamy potato salad on the side. The Canadian portions make it a hearty lunch where we knew the lobster was super fresh!
More info: Hall’s Harbour Lobster Pound | Allow 1 hour for a visit or a bit more if you like to linger over lunch | Driving time from Lunenburg to Hall’s Harbour 1 hr 30 mins on Route 12
The Blomidon Look off
We took a local’s tip on our way back to Wolfville. driving the road towards Blomidon. Along the edge of the ridge is a point known as the Look off or viewpoint. Parking by the road we had an amazing view over the fertile farmland of the Annapolis Valley and the sheltered Minas basin beyond.
Sandwiched between two high ridges (we were standing on one of them) the Annapolis Valley enjoys a warm microclimate, making it ideal for apple and wine growing. Fertile soil of the river valley creates great produce that is sold in the local farmer’s markets. The Annapolis Valley is a favourite foodie destination, as we were about to find out.
More info: From Hall’s Harbour we headed south on Route 359, then took the side road towards Glenmont and Blomidon. The Lookoff is around 15 minutes drive from Hall’s Harbour.
Starr’s Point Agrotourism Loop
Before arriving at Wolfville we took a short detour around the Starrs Point Loop. This is where a group of artisan food producers have created an agritourism trail, on the north shore of the meandering Cornwallis River.
The “Loop” is circular route that you can drive, walk or cycle. Stopping at wineries, farms and cafes along the way, it’s a perfect way for foodies like us to spend an afternoon!
If you want to visit the Annapolis Valley without having to drive yourself (so you can indulge in a glass or two!) we recommend this Nova Scotia day tour. The tour includes visits to Peggy’s Cove, Lunenburg and the vineyards of the Annapolis Valley.
Planter’s Ridge Winery
Planter’s Ridge Winery was our first stop, since I’d seen their wines in the farmer’s market in Halifax. The 150 year old timber framed barn had been renovated to make a modern tasting room with a patio overlooking the vineyards. We were welcomed to an impromptu tasting, with wine and cider to purchase by the glass or the bottle.
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Fox Hill Farm dairy
Only a little further down the road, we were tempted up the drive by the hand-painted cow on the sign for Fox Hill Farm. The sixth generation family farm produces several different styles of cheese and gelato using the milk of their Holstein and Jersey cows. Safe to say, we couldn’t leave without trying a scoop of their creamy gelato flavours. They are also available at the farm deli in take home containers!
Prescott House Museum
From the road we spotted the charming Acacia Grove, an elegant Georgian house that was once the home to apple grower and horticulturist Charles Prescott in the first half of the 19th century. The house was purchased and restored in the 1930s by Prescott’s great grand daughter.
She and her sisters lived there in a gracious home filled with antiques, oriental rugs and samplers. The Prescott House Museum is open June to October but sadly were a little too early in the season and the museum was closed.
More foodie stops
We continued past the Willowbank U-pick Farm, an apple and fruit growing farm that is open in September and October. You can play at being a homesteader and pick your own apples, pumpkins and other autumn fruit. Also along this route you can find Wood ‘n’ Hive honey which produces local honey and honey products.
At Barrelling Tide Distillery they make gin and fruit liqueurs and at Wayfarer’s Ale Society we were tempted for a glass of their craft beer on the upstairs patio, overlooking the Cornwallis River.
More info: From Hall’s Harbour is 20 minutes drive to the Planter’s Ridge Winery or 10 minutes drive from Wolfville | If driving be sure to drink responsibly, appoint a designated driver or take any alcohol back to enjoy in your accommodation.
The Micro Boutique Living Wolfville is a self-catering hotel located in Wolfville city center
The Tangled Garden at Wolfville
Just outside Wolfville is the Tangled Garden, a gem of a garden. We just had time to visit in the late afternoon sunshine.
The garden is set around owner Beverley McClare’s private home and lives up to its name. It’s a joyous riot of plants and trees where you can walk along meandering gravel paths and enjoy the metal sculptures set in the greenery. Tulips were flowering in the box hedged formal garden, with apple blossom, cow parsley and herbs mingling with flowers.
Beverley uses the herbs and fragrant plants of the garden to make flavoured jellies, jams and vinegars that glow like jewels when stacked in the window of the small shop at the garden entrance. Once you get tasting some of those jellies, you won’t be able to resist taking a jar or two home!
More info: The Tangled Garden | Address: #11827, Highway 1, Grand Pré, Nova Scotia | From Wolfville take Highway 1 through town and the garden is beside the highway 5 minutes from the centre of town.
Grand-Pré National Historic site Wolfville
In the early evening we drove through Grand-Pré historic site north of Wolfville. It’s an area of farmland surrounded on three sides by water that is one of three UNESCO Heritage sites in Nova Scotia.
An Acadian community of French settlers settled here in the 1680s. They established themselves as farmers and fishermen, draining the salt marsh with dykes that you can still see today.
Stay at the Old Orchard Inn Resort and Spa just outside Wolfville
At the visitor and interpretive centre you can find out more about the history of the Acadians. Many refused to take an oath of allegiance to the British government and suffered deportation between 1755 and 1762.
This site commemorates the terrible upheaval of the Grand Derangement, creating a focus for Acadians from all over the world to discover their roots.
The visitor centre was closed when we passed by, but we were able to see the pretty church of Saint-Charles-des-Mines. It was created in 1922 as a monument to the Acadians and is surrounded by apple orchards.
Read more about the Acadian people in my article: Discovering Acadian culture in Nova Scotia, Canada
The statue of Evangeline
Near the church is a statue of Evangeline, the heroine of the epic poem by Longfellow, Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie. Published in 1847, the poem tells of the young Acadian girl, separated from her betrothed who spent years searching for him.
We continued our drive to Evangeline beach where the low tide exposed the mud flats, creating a shimmering mirror of shallow water. At this peaceful spot we contemplated all that we’d seen that day as the sun set over the Minas Basin.
More info: Grand-Pre National Historic site | Experience Grand Pre
Stay: The Old Orchard Inn Resort and Spa in Wolfville
We stayed that night at The Old Orchard Inn Resort and Spa, just outside the town of Wolfville. It is set on the high ground with views over the farmland of the Annapolis valley and orchards that give the hotel its name.
The three story modern hotel has around 100 rooms, some with views over the valley. Others like ours on the ground floor which are drive-up, with car parking immediately outside. Sadly we didn’t have time to try out the indoor swimming pool or spa facilities as we were only there for one night.
We enjoyed our dinner in the high ceilinged dining room, which incorporates traditional stonework and old reclaimed oak beams, with views over the well maintained gardens and valley landscape.
On the patio, we relaxed on the wooden chairs with views over the old orchards and valley. Our aperitif made a great end to our day exploring the Bay of Fundy and northern shore of Nova Scotia.
Stay at the Old Orchard Inn Resort and Spa just outside Wolfville
Nova Scotia Road Trip – Day 3
Shubenacadie Tidal Bore rafting
For the last of our three days in Nova Scotia, we drove from Wolfville to the Shubenacadie Tidal Bore Rafting Resort. It’s located at the point where the Bay of Fundy narrows into the Shubenacadie river. The resort offers a unique adventure experience, on the rapids that form when the tide rushes into the river channel.
Times of the daily rafting tours vary according to the tides and on arrival we were welcomed by owner Steve Elder. We waited for our group to gather in the cosy cabin with plenty of seating around the central open fireplace.
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Preparing for the tidal bore rafting
Kitted out in warm waterproof jackets and life preservers, with old borrowed trainers we were ready for our adventure. Something told me we were likely to get both wet and muddy on this expedition!
Our group of 8 people walked down the muddy track to the river and clambered into the zodiacs which took us down the river, navigating the shallow channels between the sandbars.
The water and shoreline had a distinctive red colour, with bald eagles circling overhead above the cliffs rising up from the river. While awaiting the arrival of the tidal bore, we had time to get out of the zodiacs and walk around on one of the sandbanks. I was nervous that the water might rush up quickly, so kept a close eye on the river levels.
As the tide rose, we were back in the zodiac and powering along to meet the tidal bore. The rushing water creates rapids and whirlpools in the river that our boat handler expertly drove us through.
Unlike normal river rafting, we were not so much following the river in one direction, as steering into the whirlpools and out again for the sheer thrill of it. I was relieved to be sitting at the back in the boat, as Guy had sat at the front, where he took the full force of each wave that engulfed the boat.
The Briarwood Bed & Breakfast is located in Elmsdale Town among 7 acres of well-tended gardens
The tidal bore experience
We had the sensation of being in a washing machine, clinging on to the ropes of the boat. Waves buffeted and constantly washed over us, as the boat tossed us around. When things got too much we were steered out of the whirlpool and into calmer water for a rest before tackling the next patch of swirling water.
It was completely exhilarating, but I was relieved when after half an hour or so of running the rapids. We returned to base, handed back all our gear and took a hot shower to clean up.
Photography tips for the rafting
If you are a photographer you need to leave big cameras behind and use a well secured waterproof camera, as any equipment on the boat will be drenched with silty water. I left my mobile in one of the waterproof bags secured to the boat and took it out for a few pictures when we stopped at the sandbar. But it was too risky to take photos on the boat with a normal camera, even in calm water.
After our Tidal Bore rafting adventure, Steve kindly showed us around the spacious holiday cabins that are available for rental. They are popular with groups of friends or families that want to get away from it all among the natural surroundings by the river.
We loved this exciting river rafting tour, which makes a unique Nova Scotia experience and a must-do if you are in this area.
More info: Tidal Bore Rafting Resort | Driving time 1 hr 20 mins from Wolfville to Tidal Bore Rafting Resort
Map of Nova Scotia and PEI Canada
Use this map of Nova Scotiia and PEI to plan your road trip.
Read next
If you’ve enjoyed this article, discover more about Acadian Culture in Nova Scotia
Our road trip continues to PEI
After this final stop in Nova Scotia, we drove on to spend a few day in Prince Edward Island. We’d had a great taste of all that this maritime province of Canada can offer, from the wild south shore to the fertile farmlands and tidal waters around the Bay of Fundy.
This 3 day Nova Scotia road trip is easily combined with the historic sites, museums and foodie culture of Halifax where we started our journey and a few days in Prince Edward Island where we were heading next. I feel that we hardly scratched the surface of Nova Scotia, but we loved what we saw. Canada’s a big place and there’s lots more to explore!
Photos from this trip
Plan your road trip in Nova Scotia
For other things to see in Canada visit the Canada Tourism website.
Need a guide book for PEI? We recommend the Lonely Planet Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island guide
Be sure to also read my other articles from this trip;
10 fun things to do in Halifax, Nova Scotia
Discovering Acadian culture in Nova Scotia, Canada
10 fun things to do in Charlottetown and Prince Edward Island
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Thanks to Nova Scotia Tourism who hosted* my visit, providing the hotel stays, car hire, meals and experiences mentioned and Canada Tourism who provided my flights.
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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WesleyAnne
Tuesday 18th of May 2021
Omg same idea @usaboatreview! Currently contemplating NS for a summer honeymoon 😊 hoping provincial borders open up.
Heather Cowper
Sunday 23rd of May 2021
@WesleyAnn - hope so too!
UsaBoatReview
Monday 29th of July 2019
Going to be going to Nova Scotia for my honeymoon in July. I can't wait to get out there and explore!
Gail Meister
Saturday 23rd of February 2019
I'm so glad you enjoyed Nova Scotia! I love to see visitors photos and read their impressions. I love my province! I hope you get to return one day...
naeem
Sunday 1st of December 2019
Pray for me, i have applied for immigration in this area my favorite place NOVASCOTIA for my future. coming soon.
Renuka Walter
Thursday 31st of January 2019
Whoa! This is an amazing trip! I looked at each picture twice. :) So much fun you had. Beautiful sceneries, delicious food and a dash adventure!