The bullfighting museum in Valencia

The bullfighting museum, next to the the bullring in the centre of Valencia is small, but gives an interesting insight into this sport which is deep-rooted in southern Spain. The museum is free and we were also presented with a pack of booklets in English with information on the museum, the bullring and some background about the bulls and bullfighters. After seeing the museum you can take a look inside the bull-ring itself, although it wasn’t possible for us as they were preparing for a bullfight the next day.

The stairs as you walk up to the museum were covered with photos of the great matadors of the past, posters and other bullfighting memorabilia. The main exhibits were the costumes of the bullfighting greats with information about the matadors who had worn them. The costumes known as Traje de Luces or ‘suit of lights’ are beautifully embroidered and skin tight and there was an interactive presentation where you could dress the matador, which explained the different items of clothing.

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We noticed one green and gold costume with a large gash in the leg – I bet that spoiled his day, commented my son, and on looking more closely we discovered that it had been worn by the torero Manolo Cortes on the day of his death.

Further on there was a large stuffed bull called Gitano who had been ‘sacrificed’ age 15. We read that the bulls could be ‘pardoned’ if they had shown exceptional bravery – although obviously not in Gitano’s case.

In a small room we watched a well produced short film, showing the bull’s life from the stud farm to the bull-fight and its death in the bull-ring. It had no commentary, so no problems with the language but the images spoke for themselves, and I might not take in younger children as they could find it upsetting. This is what happens:

The crowd fills the bull-ring in the late afternoon, fanning themselves to keep cool. The bull is stuck in the neck with a be-ribboned spike and thus enraged is let loose into the ring. The bull is first engaged by the junior bullfighters with their purple capes and by picadores on heavily armoured horses who spike the bull in the neck with lances. The bull charges the horse, it rears and falls, the crowd gasps and the bullfighters quickly move in to distract the bull.

The banderilleros run towards the bull making him charge and spike him in the neck with decorated wooden spiked banderillas. Finally the star bullfighter, or torero elegantly twirls his purple and yellow cape for the bull to charge, then taking the smaller red cape he plunges the sword into the bull for the final kill. Blood spurts out, the bull stumbles and falls to the ground, the crowd applauds wildly and wave white handkerchiefs to signal their approval. The torero receives the adulation of the crowd and two horses drag the bull’s body out of the ring.

Despite the beautiful costumes, the spectacle of the fight, the bravery and bravado and the deep cultural traditions, I think it’s a sad way to treat a bull. But I’d still recommend you visit the museum and make up your own mind.

Museo Taurino, Pasaje Doctor Serra 10, next to the bullring and the main train station. Free entry. Open 10am-8pm Tues-Sat and 10am-2pm Sun.

Thanks for the photos to spunfukster on flickr and meusli from www.helge.at

You can see my collection of Valencia photos on my Flickr site here.

Check for the best hotel prices in Valencia and book here.

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This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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