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My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 1 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme

We started this year’s walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc at the spot where we had come down from the mountain last year – the top of the Flégère chair lift above Chamonix. Last year we had descended in brilliant sunshine but now there was a light drizzle that we hoped would soon pass. We’d already persuaded an elderly man at the bus stop in Les Houches to take our ‘before’ photo looking fresh and keen. Now we posed again for photos to mark the start of our three days in the mountains, although I could tell that my friend Julia was anxious to get off for the long day’s walk ahead.

At the top of the Flegere Lift above Chamonix
At the top of the Flegere Lift above Chamonix

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A damp beginning

We skirted the hillside, the weather getting increasingly misty as we climbed until we met an impressive cascade of waterfalls with a few wooden bridges to cross. Julia was ahead of me, making good time as I stopped to take photos and a bit of video, so I had to run a bit to catch up with her. By the time we reached a cairn and small hut which marked a crossing of ways, Julia had sensibly put on her waterproof trousers, although I was still resisting, hoping that the rain might pass over.

Need a guide book for the Tour de Mont Blanc? We recommend the Cicerone Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds

At this point a decision was to be made over the route – either to take a more direct path which would take us down sheer rock faces down a series of ladders or to take a longer route that skirted further up the mountain to bring us down again at the bottom of the ladders. With the rain showing no sign of abating we decided that wet and slippery ladders were too much of a risk and continued onwards and upwards.

The trail from La Flegere
The trail from La Flegere
Views above Tre-le-Champ near Argentiere
Views above Tre-le-Champ near Argentiere

Our choice of route was still challenging, taking us up to 2000 metres then steeply down through rocky terrain that was hard on the knees, clambering over rocks, then a steep descent on easier paths where we could look down on a busy road below with toy cars passing along the valley. We wished we did not have to descend again, only to lose the height that we had punished our legs to gain and knowing that what comes down must go up again.

On reaching the road we passed the information centre for the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve and walked a little further down the path into the pretty hamlet of Tré le Champ. Here was a charming Alpine scene, with brightly coloured geraniums at every window and neatly stacked wood piles waiting for winter fires.

Lunch at the Auberge

We stopped for lunch at the Auberge la Boerne with accommodation for walkers and rather wished that we could be staying the night here, as it felt so civilised. I ate a warm slice of quiche with salad while Julia tried the Tarte aux Mytilles washed down by a cup of strong black coffee, although not being used to the French style she had to go back to ask for a “grande café aux lait’ to get something more suited to English tastes.

Tre-le-champ on the Tour de Mont Blanc
Tre-le-champ on the Tour de Mont Blanc
Lunch at Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne
Lunch at Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne

After lunch we walked out of the gate of the Auberge, past some small tents pitched on grassy terraces beside the stream and continued on the path that took us up through the forest, past a couple of old houses and a small chapel. By now the rain had cleared and we were enjoying some sunshine in between the clouds.

Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne
Tre-le-champ Auberge la Boerne

We climbed up again, regaining hight until after 45 minutes the trees started to thin out and we could see something of the view. Julia had not been feeling great as we climbed up throughout the morning although she was fine over lunch, but now climbing up again she was finding the going tough and we concluded that the altitude might be affecting her. We continued however, reaching a sign which pointed us a further 1.5 hrs up to the highest point of our walk that day, at the Aiguillette du Possette at 2200 metres.

View above Tre-le-champ on theTour de Mont Blanc
View above Tre-le-champ on theTour de Mont Blanc

A steady steep climb

The climb was steady and then the Aiguillette came in sight, with the path climbing higher and higher in front of us. Just as I reached what seemed like the top, another crest would come in sight with a small cairn where rocks were piled alongside the path. Then as that crest was reached another and yet another appeared.

Finally I reached the top and waited for Julia who was having to walk  at a painfully slow pace but was still managing to keep going. At the top we celebrated the long and difficult climb with some photos and took some time to drink in the views in all directions with a look down to villages in the valleys on both sides of the crest.

At the top of L'Aguillette des Posettes on the Tour de Mont Blanc
At the top of L’Aguillette des Posettes on the Tour de Mont Blanc

Ahead of us and to the left we could see the blue water of the reservoir, Lac d’Emosson hanging above the valley with an enormous dam keeping the water from spilling down the mountain and cascading into the valley. I reflected that I probably would be scared to live in one of those houses immediately below the reservoir in case one day the dam burst and washed me away.

We now descended gently along a ridge past small pools reflecting the sky, some crystal clear and others filled with weed. Below us was an undulating meadow with numerous ski pylons, that would become a ski piste in the winter season. As we reached the bottom of the meadow it was around 6.30pm and the clouds were starting to close in, blown by the wind along the crests of the mountains.

Walking down from L'Aiguillette des Possettes
Walking down from L’Aiguillette des Possettes
Cows on the road to Col de Possette
Cows on the road to Col de Possette

Approaching Refuge Col de Balme

The sign now indicated a further hour’s climb along an easy path up to Refuge Col de Balme where we had booked to stay that night. Julia was by now really on her last reserves of energy, just about able to put one foot in front of the other. If only we could just reach the Refuge before the mist and cloud turned to darkness.

As we turned a corner we faced another delay – a herd of large cattle with sharp horns and alpine bells clanging barred our path. They were going one way and we the other and somehow we would have to pass each other. I was relaxed but Julia was terrified – she told me later that she had once been chased by a herd of cows as a young girl. We moved off the path and gradually the cattle moved past in pairs, bells clanging loudly. Finally  at nearly 8pm we rounded the mountain and Refuge Col de Balme loomed out of the mist. What a relief – it had been a long day!

Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc
Refuge Col de Balme on the Tour de Mont Blanc
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More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

A tale of two refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc (2011)
Day 2 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Refuge de Bellachat to Flégère (2010)
Day 3 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flégère to Lac Blanc (2010)

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

On the first night of our walk we stayed at Refuge Col de Balme (Tel 04 50 54 02 33) and the cost was around €40 per person with dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room. On our second night we stayed at Gite Bon Abri at Champex-de’en-Haut, which we highly recommend, with private rooms and dorm rooms. The cost was around CHFR 76 per person with dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room and the Gite may be booked in advance by e-mail.

For mountain clothing I used Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds – we found it to be an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route with detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

At the start and end of our walk, we stayed at the modern, stylish, budget boutique Hotel Slalom that is perfectly placed in Les Houches for summer walking opposite the start of the anti-clockwise TMB route. Double rooms in the summer season €86-99 plus €10 breakfast.

Need a guide book for the Tour de Mont Blanc? We recommend the Cicerone Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress and found them to run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service – cost was €28 + tax per person each way.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries – Champex Lac to Ferret and a walk in the woods_Go Time Travel Blog | Go Time Travel Blog

Saturday 27th of October 2012

[...] building below the path, but thankfully no cows blocking the way as we had experi.... As the forest cleared, we walked down to [...]

The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries - Champex Lac to Ferret and a walk in the woods | Heather on her travels

Friday 26th of October 2012

[...] cow bells warned us that there was a dairy farm in the building below the path, but thankfully no cows blocking the way as we had experienced last year. As the forest cleared, we walked down to the road at the village of Issert, which was full of [...]

Podcast about the Tour de Mont Blanc | Heather on her travels

Sunday 11th of March 2012

[...] Julia was suffering from altitude sickness and had to go slowly but finally we reached refuge Col de Balme in darkness. At first I could not spot any signs of life, but seeing a car parked there I know there must be someone inside. As I skirted around the refuge, I finally saw an old man through the window who asked what we wanted and finally let us in. Inside a warm stove was burning and we were served an Omlette Jambon with bread and local cheese. After we’d eaten a couple of other Italian men with a teenage boy arrived, but there were no other guests. We all had to sleep in one dorm despite the fact that other rooms were available but Madame told us that they were all shut up. She gave us three blankets between the two of us – giving Julia an extra one as she had not been feeling well. When I asked whether I too might have another blanket she told me it wouldn’t be necessary as with 5 people in a room it would be warm enough. I spent the first half of the night feeling cold and trying to put on extra clothes to keep warm without disturbing the others in the room. After our restless night, we were up at 7.30 and after a breakfast of bread and jam we were on our way again. Read my diary of Day 1 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flegere to Col de Balme. [...]

Video diary - Tour de Mont Blanc | Heather on her travels

Tuesday 11th of October 2011

[...] Read my account of Day 1 – Flegere to Col de Balme At the end of our walk in Les Houches [...]

My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 2 - Col de Balme to Champex | Heather on her travels

Sunday 11th of September 2011

[...] awoke to bright sunshine and blue skies at Refuge Col de Balme and the dramas of the day before, our exhausting walk and the encounter with a herd of sharp-horned mountain cattle, were all but [...]