Eat the Neighbourhood in Nørrebro, Copenhagen

If there’s a fine line between a neighbourhood that’s trendy and up and coming or slightly dodgy and worth keeping your wits about you, then Nørrebro in Copenhagen must be treading that line. But if you’re a gourmet at heart then this area of the Danish capital is worth exploring, with a number of great food destinations that I discovered when I was there last spring.

In Copenhagen, Coffee Collective is synonymous with a passion for coffee. Although their coffee beans are sold all around Copenhagen, there’s only one small shop with a few ouside tables where they brew the coffee and that shop is in Nørrebro. Apparently, the queues sometimes stretch right down the street as Copenhageners who care about great coffee come to get their coffee fix. The owners use a Direct Trade model, working with farmers in Brazil, Guatamala, Kenya and Panama to pay the best prices for the best quality coffee. Coffee Collective has won numerous awards for their coffee – it’s fair to say that they live and breathe coffee!  However long the line, their baristas will always take care to make you a great cup of coffee.

Coffee Collective, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

To enjoy with your coffee you might want to pop across the road to the Claus Meyer Bakery where you can buy one of  their fruit slices as well as the rustic Danish bread – these guys are passionate about their sourdough.  I visited the Claus Meyer factory on a previous visit to Copenhagen for TBEX – where we saw the sourdough breads being made and then followed on with a tour of the Meyer Vinegar Brewery for a tasting of everything from blackcurrent flavour to a syrupy aged balsamic. The bakery is owned by top Danish chef Claus Meyer who’s  a gastronomic entrepreneur and leading light in the Nordic cuisine movement to bring back seasonal Scandinavian produce, as well as co-founder of Noma, known as ‘The Best restaurant in the world” Phew with such a culinary pedigree one would hope that the bread would be a cut above.

Claus Meyer Bakery, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

For top food at affordable (for Copenhagen) prices try Relae restaurant – a brasserie where the style is simple and stylish, with no frills in the decor and service but it’s all about the food. The head chef and co-owner Christian F. Puglisi has worked at Michelin star restaurants such as El Bulli and Noma, but the atmosphere here is much more laid back. Although I didn’t eat here, I did pop in to take a look and I hear the food is something special, with an inventive set menu that offers good vegetarian options.

Relae, Jægersborggade 41, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

Complete your food tour of Nørrebro with a special evening at Michelin star Thai restaurant Kiin Kiin. When I met the owner Henrik Yde-Andersen he told me that when they first opened, the area had a rather dodgy reputation so they took something of a risk in opening such a classy restaurant. Henrik worked for several years as a chef in Thailand and brought his passion for the cuisine back to his homeland – his signature dish is frozen red curry with lobster salad and unusually for Asian food he uses his training as a sommelier to marry great wines with the Thai dishes. If your budget can’t stretch to Michelin star prices, don’t worry as right next door there’s his neighbourhood Thai curry cafe, Aroidee,  which is always packed with locals. The cafe started because Henrik hated any food going to waste and used to sell inexpensive take away curries from the kitchen door, but when the queues started stetching down the road, it was time to open Aroidee. You can read my interview with Henrik Yde Andersen and hear the interview as part of my Copenhagen podcast

Kiin Kiin and Aroidee, Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

More things to enjoy in Copenhagen

Bike + Train = Adventure in Copenhagen 
17 Podcast – Our long weekend in Copenhagen
In search of the perfect Smørrebrød – in Copenhagen

Resources for visiting Copenhagen

• You’ll find plenty of information about places to eat and things to see on the Visit Copenhagen website
• There is a free Visit Copenhagen Mobile phone app available for iPhone, Android and other smartphones
• If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing then check out the Copenhagen Card for free entry to 65 museums and attractions as well as free public transport around the city
• We stayed at the modern, stylish Ibsens Hotel, set in the arty and up and coming Nansensgarde neighbourhood near the Copenhagen lakes.

Thanks to Wonderful Copenhagen for sponsoring our weekend in Copenhagen.

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Copenhagen – Food & Drink photoset

 

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

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A day and night out in Cardiff – Wales

When you start a holiday, you’re always eager to see as many sights as you can, but if you get too excited, you end up seeing them all, and if you’re holidaying over the course of a week or fortnight, you find yourself bored with a few days still to go. Fortunately, when visiting Cardiff, you won’t have that problem.

Many people don’t have the time to go on a week-long break, but day and night breaks can be just as relaxing. You can take in plenty of sights, with time left to have a meal at one of the Welsh capital’s outstanding restaurants before retreating to one of those comfortable, welcoming Cardiff hotels for a great night’s sleep.

As you would expect from a capital city, Cardiff is jam packed with attractions. It has numerous parks, sporting and cultural venues, historical sites, top-class shops and eateries, all of which make the city a fantastic place to spend a weekend in.

The Millenium Stadium, the home of the Welsh national rugby union team, is one of Europe’s largest purpose-built sporting venues. As well as hosting top-class sporting events, the stadium also hosts concerts for rock and pop groups, plus the amazing Welsh National Opera.

Cardiff plays host to Wales’ National Museum and Art Gallery, which puts on various exhibitions with relevance to both the local area and the wider world. Admission is free, so if you’re holidaying with children, this is an ideal place for the whole family to visit.

Parks are plentiful in Cardiff, and if you’re looking for a peaceful weekend, then a stroll through Bute Park on the edge of the city centre, or Roath Park, which lies within its leafy suburbs could be the answer. Cardiff has more parkland per capita than any other major city in the UK, so you’re spoilt for choice.

Other attractions of note include St. David’s Hall, which is one of the country’s best concert halls, the magnificent Cardiff Castle and the inspiring St. David’s Cathedral. Shopping in Cardiff is a joy, particularly around precincts such as St. David’s, Royal Arcade and the Capitol Centre.

Once you’ve taken in all the sights, then why not cap off your day by having a meal at one of the many top-class restaurants in the breathtakingly modern Cardiff Bay area. Eateries such as Signor Valentino’s, Bosphorus Turkish Restaurant and Miller and Carter Restaurant and Bar offer flavours from South Wales and beyond, and are guaranteed to re-energise you after taking in all the sights of this wonderful, underrated city.

When you’ve finished your meal, then you’re able to retreat to a quality hotel such as the Ibis Hotel Cardiff Gate and sleep soundly in a freshly-made bed knowing that you’ve had the best day break imaginable, and if there’s anywhere you didn’t see, you can always come back for another trip.

Photo Credits: All photos by cardiffandco

More Things to see in Wales

Walking In Wales – 10 Easy And Inspirational Day Walks
Camping in sunshine and showers – on the Gower in Wales
A snowy break at Laswern Fawr holiday in the Brecon Beacons, Wales – video

My thanks for this sponsored post to Eurobookings.com, the European booking specialist

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Getting to and from the airport in Gothenburg (and what to do while you’re there)

If you’re flying into Gothenburg you’ll probably land at Landvetter airport if you’re flying with Scandinavian Airlines or British Airways and at the City Airport if you’re flying with Ryanair. Neither airport is very far from the city centre and although you can easily get a taxi, the cheap and efficient way to get into the centre is with the Flygbussarna coach service.

Flygbussarna service from Gothenburg Landvetter Airport

• 3 departures per hour every 20 minutes
• The journey takes 25-30 minutes
• The bus stops at Korsvagen (near Liseburg Amusement Park), Park Avenue (On the Avenue near the Museum of Art), Kungsportsplaten (by the canal and main tram stop), Nils Ericson terminalen (near the main train station)
• You can pick up a handy leaflet at the airport with a map of all the stops or check the Google maps on the Flybussarna website
• The costs is 80SEK (€9, $12, £7.50)  one way, 150SEK return (€17, $22, £14)
• You can book in advance or pay on the bus. I probably wouldn’t book the journey from the airport but I might book the return journey just in case the bus was full.
• The bus does not take cash but takes major credit cards
• More information on the Flybussarna website

For the Flygbussarna service from Gothenburg City Airport

We flew to Gothenburg with SAS who have a couple of flights a day to Gothenburg from London Heathrow which is ideal if you’re planning a short break as we were. Of course getting to and from the airport is only a means to an end and if you want some ideas on what to enjoy in Gothenburg why not;

• Explore the Gothenburg Christmas markets and shop for unusual food and design gifts – we especially enjoyed the Haga market, but Liseburg is the biggest and most sparkling.
• Watch the Christmas Julfilm projected on the facade of the Gothenburg Museum of Art and if you’re lucky you might get to hear the singing Christmas tree choir in Bältesspännarparken (sadly we missed it due to the windy weather)
• Visit the Feskekörka (Fish Church ) where you can admire all the fresh fish and buy tasty deli dishes as well as trying the seafood in one of the two restaurants – we loved Restaurant Gabriel where the owner Johan Malm introduced us to the delights of West Swedish oysters.
• Try the fried herringwith mashed potato and lingonberry sauce – the classic Swedish combination at the Strömmingsluckan herring cart in Magasinskarten
• Enjoy a Fika break with a steaming mug of coffee and enormous cinnamon bun in one of the cosy coffee shops around town.
• Treat yourself to a gourmet blow-out at one of the five Michelin star restaurants in Gothenburg – we loved our meal at Basement where I interviewed the head chef Camilla Parkner.
• If you’re there at Christmas, enjoy an extended Christmas buffet or Julbord at one of the many restaurants and hotels, such as Elite Plaza where we stayed, that serve all the traditional Christmas dishes throughout December
• Warm yourself with a hot chocolate with chili at Cafe Kanold and stock up on Gothenburg truffles topped with sea salt at their shop nearby on Viktoriapassagen
• In summer visit the Maritiman Maritime Museum in the port area and wander around the courtyard of the Kronhuset nearby – an old artillery store that’s one of the oldest buildings in Gothenburg
• Pop into the Gothenburg City Museum or Stadsmuseum to learn all about Viking history and see the remains of an old Viking longboat – the museum shop has some pretty gifts too.

More Visitor Information for Gothenburg or Göteborg

• The local tourism site Göteborg.com is full of information on the best things to see and do
• For information on West Sweden visit the West Sweden Tourism site or follow them on Twitter @WestSwedenTB or on their Facebook page and you will find their blog at ExploreWestSweden.com
• Another useful site for all things Gothenburg is I Love Göteborg
• If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing it’s worth getting the Gothenburg City Card which will allow you entrance to all the major attractions as well as public transport. Look out for the deals that some hotels offer that include a Gothenburg Card with the hotel booking.
• We stayed at the classic 5 star hotel, Elite Plaza Hotel which is in the Inom Vallgraven district and walking distance from most of the sightes of Gothenburg.
• We took flights to Gothenburg from London Heathrow with Scandinavian Airlines who have 2 flights a day to Gothenburg’s Landvetter airport, a 30 minute taxi or bus ride from the city.
• If you’d like to use a guidebook during your visit to Gothenburg I’d recommend the conveniently sized Thomas Cook Gothenburg Pocket Guide which we used.
• Visit the Flybussarna website for more information on getting to and from the airport

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Sweden – Gothenburg photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Brighton – a very British Seaside Town

Brighton has long been the haunt of Londoners who are in need of respite from the Big Smoke. Graham Greene wrote about it in his famous novel Brighton Rock– an interesting insight into what it was like in a time when people went down in their Sunday best clothes and strolled along the promenade in a quintessentially English way.

It has always had an eccentric air about it. Just a look at the Brighton Pavilion attests to this. The Pavilion was built for Prince Regent between 1787 and 1823 so that he could entertain his mistress there. It was designed in a skewed Indian architectural style, the British having liked the architecture in India and attempted to copy it themselves. The result is almost comic, particularly in a classic British seaside resort.

For sometime Brighton has been known as Britain’s gay capital too. There’s a good gay bar scene. Near to the station, behind (perhaps appropriately) a PVC cover, there’s Banksy’s portrait of two male policemen kissing, quite a nice nod to the community.

Brighton has what you want from a British seaside resort mixed with good pubs, restaurants and shopping. Along the seafront, there are a few fish and chip places including one that serves crab soup, which you will smell long before you see it.  However, the places along the seafront are more expensive than great well-known locations such as Bardsley’s on Baker Street.

The old Brighton pier – West Pier – stands, a charcoal husk just out to sea. It was opened in 1866. Maintenance costs led to degradation, which in turn resulted in the pier being cut off from the shore for safety. Storms after that led to parts of it falling into the sea and a couple of fires after that left it as what you see it today.

There are a couple of decorative iron pieces from the old pier in the Brighton Fishing Museum on the seafront. The pier visitors go to today is to the left of the old one. It has amusement arcades with slot machines and toy grabbing games, a helter skelter, ghost train and a couple of other rides as well as a tarot reader who works from a gypsy caravan on the pier.

The city of Brighton and Hove is known for its cultural and arts scene and there are some cute galleries on the seafront as well as inland. There are also a few market stalls dotted about when the weather suits.

There is (contrary to popular belief) a great train service between London and Brighton. So while cheap car hire would be one way to get there if coming from London, you don’t really need it unless you’re sticking around for a while. Buses here are expensive enough that you might as well.

If travelling in from another part of the UK, trains are still recommended – as long as you book far enough in advance. The UK has the cheapest advance train fares in Europe but the last minute fares are among the most expensive.

This post was brought to you by CarHireMarket.com  and written by Liz Vega who writes mostly about Britain and loves the seaside.

More things to do around England

Ships and Shopping at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
A walk around the harbourside in Bristol – Video
Hunting the Ash-black slug on Dartmoor – in Devon

Photo Credits: Brighton Pavilion by Fenners1984, Banksy’s kissing policemen by simonbooth, Seaside resort food by drchrispinnock,  and Brighton pier by EEPaul.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

Eight Swedish foods to try in Gothenburg – video

Gothenburg has a well earned reputation as a gourmet destination offering everything from wonderful seafood to traditional Swedish dishes to cosy cafes to sip a hot chocolate or have a fika break with a strong coffee and cinnamon bun. Here are some of the Swedish tastes that you might enjoy in Gothenburg and West Sweden;

I hope you enjoy my video below about the best food to try in Gothenburg

If you can’t see the video above about the best Swedish food, view it on my blog here

1. Inlagt sill (pickled herring)

Herring was staple fare for the fishing communities in the islands, inlets and archipelagos off the West Coast of Sweden. A watch would be kept for the plentiful shoals off the coast and the boats sent out to bring in the herring, which would be smoked, pickled or salted to sustain families through the long, hard winters. Many of the coastal towns also had factories and canneries that packed and preserved the herring and provided much of the local employment. In Gothenburg, especially in the winter you’ll find herring served in endless varieties with spices and sauces – everyone’s granny has their own family recipe that’s been handed down from their mother to daughter. At hotel breakfasts and buffets you may notice large bowls with different styles of herring and you can look out them at the counters in the Feskekörka fish market in Gothenburg. We enjoyed this fish and herring platter with four different types of herring at Restaurant Gabriel in the Feskekörka.

2. Snaps

On high days and holiday, at Easter, Christmas and during the summer crayfish parties and practically any time there’s an excuse, the Swedes will bring out the Snaps. It’s an aquavit with attitude that can be flavoured with fruits or drunk just as it comes.  O.P Anderson is a favourite brand and the snaps goes particularly well with the herring, cutting through the rich, oily flavour. You can hear a traditional Snaps drinking song on my podcast about Gothenburg. If you’re not a great drinker like me then a sip will be enough to warm you through, but a true Swede will knock back the Snaps with a hearty Viking toast, Skol!

3. Oysters

We were in Gothenburg in December which is the perfect time to try the ultra-fresh oysters caught off the West Coast of Sweden. There are many fantastic seafood restaurants in the city but we tried our oysters at Restaurant Gabriel in the Feskekörka Fish Market (literally the Fish Church). The owner Johan Malm was the World Champion Oyster Opener in the 2010 Championships held in Galway, Ireland so I reckon that he should know a thing about oysters. Johan told us that although there are many ways to serve oysters, he always prefers them as natural as possible with just a squeeze of lemon to bring out the metallic taste of the sea. The trick is to make sure that you don’t just swallow them down but chew properly to get the full flavour. You can hear my interview with Johan Malm with all his oyster stories in my podcast about Gothenburg.

4. The Christmas Table or Julbord

In December and the run up to Christmas, many hotels and restaurants serve the Julbord or Christmas table – a buffet where you can try all the traditional foods that would be served at Christmas. There’s an emphasis on the pickled and the preserved that would keep you going through the winter, with plenty of herring, smoked salmon, cured meats and stuffed eggs. The old Swedish tradition was always to keep a pig and then kill it near Christmas. The Julbord can be eaten over an extended lunchtime or in the evening and is especially popular at weekends for families and groups of friends, to get you in the festive mood. We enjoyed the spread at our hotel, Elite Plaza served in the Swea Hof restaurant and I’ve also had a local Gothenburg recommendation for the Julbord at Sjömagasinet, situated at the mouth of Gothenburg harbour as well as  Salt & Sill which is 40km north of Gothenburg, and would be one to try if you have a car or are touring West Sweden.

Christmas Julbord at Elite Plaza Hotel, Gothenburg, Sweden

Christmas Julbord at Elite Plaza Hotel, Gothenburg, Sweden

5. Herring from a cart

If you’re on a budget and want to try a classic Swedish fish dish then make sure that you are in Magasinsgatan around lunchtime on a weekday to find the Strömmingsluckan herring cart open (it’s in the courtyard right by Cafe Da Matteo). The owner Thomas told us that these street food carts are very common in East Sweden but there are not so many in West Sweden so they decided to open one to serve traditional fried herring with creamy mashed potato and lingonberry sauce – it was yummy – if you don’t believe me watch the video!

6. Take a Fika break – coffee and cinnamon buns

If you didn’t realise the Swedes are great drinkers of coffee, you’ll work it out as soon as you get to Gothenburg. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafts from coffee bars in alleyways and courtyards – in winter a cosy place to get out of the chilly winds and in summer a place to relax in a courtyard or park. Fika is what they call it in Sweden – to have a Fika is to have a coffee break, a chat with friends and pass the time of day, perhaps sustained with a cake or traditional cinnamon bun. The cinnamon buns are ENORMOUS swirls of sugary-spicy sweetness, reputedly invented at Cafe Husaren in the heart of Haga – you can’t miss them piled up the window on the main street of Haga Nyata.

In the neighbourhood of Nordstaden, not far from the port there’s Cafe Kronhuset in the courtyard next to the oldest building in Gothenburg, an old artillery store with copper shutters and some craft shops around the courtyard. Then there’s the local’s choice, Cafe Da Matteo with a small branch in the courtyard at Magasinsgatan and across the courtyard a larger branch where they make the bread and grind the coffee as well as a small branch in Viktoriapassagen. In the old working neighborhood of Haga you’ll be spoiled for Fika choice. We tried Cafe Kringlan, marked out by the golden bagel outside and the stunning selections of cakes, pastries and buns inside and then right at the far end of Haga Nyata we came across Le Petit Cafe with sea green chinoiserie wallpaper and vintage knick knacks – so very olde worlde Swedish.

7. Chocolate with sea salt

For chocolate with an unusual salty sweetness, seek out one of the Kanold chocolate shops . The one at the end of Viktoriapassagen is a cross between old fashioned candy store and boutique chocolatier with striped candy canes, marzipan pigs and melt in the mouth chocolate truffles with sophisticated and unusual taste combinations. The house speciality is the “Gothenburg Truffle’” invented by the boss of Flickorna (The Girls) Kanold, Jeanna Kanold, a charming lady who I found serving in the shop on the Sunday before Christmas that I was there. She told me how she invented the Gothenburg truffle which has a soft truffle centre topped with flakes of sea salt because she wanted a flavour that epitomised the taste of West Sweden with the ocean and the seafood.

The Cafe Kanold just around the corner is elegantly styled with sparkling chandeliers and washed out Swedish blue woodwork. I can recommend the hot chocolate with chili flakes to keep out the cold and send you out with renewed energy for exploring Gothenburg. I’ll be amazed if you leave without buying a few of those tempting chocolates and cakes at the counter.

Cafe Kanold in Gothenburg, Sweden

Jeanna Kanold at the Kanold Chocolate shop

8. Michelin Star Restaurants in Gothenburg

I can’t go without mentioning that Gothenburg has a huge reputation as a gourmet destination and was recently crowned the Culinary Capital of Sweden with no less than 5 Michelin star restaurants to enjoy. We were lucky enough to eat at Basement, where I met the Head Chef, Camilla Parkner to find out what makes the food in Gothenburg so special. You can read my account of our meal at Basement and my video interview with Camilla in my article about Gourmet Gothenburg.

Of course, eating at a Michelin star restaurant can be expensive and something that most of us would reserve for a special treat or celebration meal but if you’re looking for the gourmet experience then do make a reservation at one of the top Michelin star restaurants in Gothenburg. They often offer a more reasonably priced lunchtime menu, or a cheaper pre-theatre or bar menu so you can still try them out if you’re on a limited budget. In addition to Basement, the other Michelin star restaurants in Gothenburg are;

28+ (Just next door to Basement) which started as a cheese shop; Kock & Vin for classic dining with Swedish ingredients and in the basement is a popular bistro and wine bar Bjorns Bar; Fond  in a glass building by the Gothenburg Museum of Art and Thörnströms Kök for modern Scandinavian and regional cooking

Restaurant at Basement in Gothenburg, Sweden

Death by chocolate at Basement in Gothenburg

Visitor Information for Gothenburg or Göteborg

• The local tourism site Göteborg.com is full of information on the best things to see and do
• For information on West Sweden visit the West Sweden Tourism site or follow them on Twitter @WestSwedenTB or on their Facebook page and you will find their blog at ExploreWestSweden.com
• Another useful site for all things Gothenburg is I Love Göteborg
• If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing it’s worth getting the Gothenburg City Card which will allow you entrance to all the major attractions as well as public transport. Look out for the deals that some hotels offer that include a Gothenburg Card with the hotel booking.
• We stayed at the classic 5 star hotel, Elite Plaza Hotel which is in the Inom Vallgraven district and walking distance from most of the sightes of Gothenburg.
• We took flights to Gothenburg from London Heathrow with Scandinavian Airlines who have 2 flights a day to Gothenburg’s Landvetter airport, a 30 minute taxi or bus ride from the city.
• If you’d like to use a guidebook during your visit to Gothenburg I’d recommend the conveniently sized Thomas Cook Gothenburg Pocket Guide which we used.

www.flickr.com heatheronhertravels’ Sweden – Gothenburg photoset

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com – Read more travel articles at Travel Blog Home

You’ll also find our sister blog with tips on how to build a successful travel blog at My Blogging Journey

Don’t miss out – subscribe to Heather on her travels

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