Eat the Neighbourhood in Nørrebro, Copenhagen

If there’s a fine line between a neighbourhood that’s trendy and up and coming or slightly dodgy and worth keeping your wits about you, then Nørrebro in Copenhagen must be treading that line. But if you’re a gourmet at heart then this area of the Danish capital is worth exploring, with a number of great food destinations that I discovered when I was there last spring.

Coffee Collective in Copenhagen Photo: Heatheronhertravel.com

Coffee Collective in Copenhagen

In Copenhagen, Coffee Collective is synonymous with a passion for coffee. Although their coffee beans are sold all around Copenhagen, there’s only one small shop with a few ouside tables where they brew the coffee and that shop is in Nørrebro. Apparently, the queues sometimes stretch right down the street as Copenhageners who care about great coffee come to get their coffee fix. The owners use a Direct Trade model, working with farmers in Brazil, Guatamala, Kenya and Panama to pay the best prices for the best quality coffee. Coffee Collective has won numerous awards for their coffee – it’s fair to say that they live and breathe coffee!  However long the line, their baristas will always take care to make you a great cup of coffee.

Coffee Collective, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

Claus Meyers Bakery in Copenhagen Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Claus Meyers Bakery in Copenhagen

To enjoy with your coffee you might want to pop across the road to the Claus Meyer Bakery where you can buy one of  their fruit slices as well as the rustic Danish bread – these guys are passionate about their sourdough.  I visited the Claus Meyer factory on a previous visit to Copenhagen for TBEX – where we saw the sourdough breads being made and then followed on with a tour of the Meyer Vinegar Brewery for a tasting of everything from blackcurrent flavour to a syrupy aged balsamic. The bakery is owned by top Danish chef Claus Meyer who’s  a gastronomic entrepreneur and leading light in the Nordic cuisine movement to bring back seasonal Scandinavian produce, as well as co-founder of Noma, known as ‘The Best restaurant in the world” Phew with such a culinary pedigree one would hope that the bread would be a cut above.

Claus Meyer Bakery, Jægersborggade 10, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

Relae restaurant in Copenhagen Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Relae restaurant in Copenhagen

For top food at affordable (for Copenhagen) prices try Relae restaurant – a brasserie where the style is simple and stylish, with no frills in the decor and service but it’s all about the food. The head chef and co-owner Christian F. Puglisi has worked at Michelin star restaurants such as El Bulli and Noma, but the atmosphere here is much more laid back. Although I didn’t eat here, I did pop in to take a look and I hear the food is something special, with an inventive set menu that offers good vegetarian options.

Relae, Jægersborggade 41, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen Photo: Heatheronhertravels.com

Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen

Complete your food tour of Nørrebro with a special evening at Michelin star Thai restaurant Kiin Kiin. When I met the owner Henrik Yde-Andersen he told me that when they first opened, the area had a rather dodgy reputation so they took something of a risk in opening such a classy restaurant. Henrik worked for several years as a chef in Thailand and brought his passion for the cuisine back to his homeland – his signature dish is frozen red curry with lobster salad and unusually for Asian food he uses his training as a sommelier to marry great wines with the Thai dishes. If your budget can’t stretch to Michelin star prices, don’t worry as right next door there’s his neighbourhood Thai curry cafe, Aroidee,  which is always packed with locals. The cafe started because Henrik hated any food going to waste and used to sell inexpensive take away curries from the kitchen door, but when the queues started stetching down the road, it was time to open Aroidee. You can read my interview with Henrik Yde Andersen and hear the interview as part of my Copenhagen podcast

Kiin Kiin and Aroidee, Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark

More things to enjoy in Copenhagen

Bike + Train = Adventure in Copenhagen 
17 Podcast – Our long weekend in Copenhagen
In search of the perfect Smørrebrød – in Copenhagen

Resources for visiting Copenhagen

  • You’ll find plenty of information about places to eat and things to see on the Visit Copenhagen website
  • There is a free Visit Copenhagen Mobile phone app available for iPhone, Android and other smartphones
  • If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing then check out the Copenhagen Card for free entry to 65 museums and attractions as well as free public transport around the city
  • We stayed at the modern, stylish Ibsens Hotel, set in the arty and up and coming Nansensgarde neighbourhood near the Copenhagen lakes.

Thanks to Wonderful Copenhagen for sponsoring our weekend in Copenhagen.


heatheronhertravels' Copenhagen - Food & Drink photoset heatheronhertravels’ Copenhagen – Food & Drink photoset


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  • Reply
    Heather Stearns
    February 4, 2012 at 12:58 am

    You had me at the Coffee Collective, but Copenhagen really sounds divine! I don’t know much about it other than Denmark has been dubbed ‘The Happiest Place on earth’ (and I grew up near Disney). Now after learning about the food, I’m excited! Thank you for helping add another destination to my list.

    • Reply
      February 4, 2012 at 7:51 pm

      @Heather Yes if you love Coffee you will enjoy Coffee Collective and Copenhagen has plenty of great places to eat – the only downside is that it’s not a cheap city to eat out.

  • Reply
    Barbara Weibel
    February 4, 2012 at 2:10 am

    Darn good thing I wasn’t hungry when I read this 🙂 I love the image of a neighborhood that is either “up and coming or slightly dodgy.”
    Barbara Weibel´s last blog post ..PHOTO: Classic lines of the Getty Museum in Los Angeles

    • Reply
      February 4, 2012 at 7:50 pm

      @ Barbara Yes, there are dodgy elements around Norrebro – you might not notice it if you’re not attuned to these things but there are drug dealers on the streets nearby and they take exception if you point a camera in their direction. However, I walk evey day through a similar area of Bristol called Stokes Croft where there are more than usual number of homeless, with a can of Special Brew in hand and yet I enjoy all the cafes, live music and street art there too.

  • Reply
    Sherry Ott
    February 4, 2012 at 6:10 pm

    The Coffee Collective sounds great! I’d much rather go to a ‘local’ place rather than starbucks when traveling!
    Sherry Ott´s last blog post ..Terelj Park Mongolia – Photo of the Week

    • Reply
      February 4, 2012 at 7:45 pm

      @Sherry I guess that Starbucks once started out as a single coffee shop like Coffee Collective that grew a big reputation

  • Reply
    February 6, 2012 at 1:06 pm

    Excellent report on a vibrant foodie ‘hood! 🙂

  • Reply
    March 31, 2012 at 9:21 pm

    I’m randomly working my way through the catalogue of the Amateur Traveler podcast and heard the interview about Valencia today. I visited your Blogspot which then led me to this website – and I lovelovelove to come across this one. My Copenhagener apartment is located in Humlebækgade, less than a handful of streets away from Jægersborggade. Did you get to visit Karamelleriet in Jægersborggade?

    If anyone are around Nørrebro and – in spite of this post – are lacking things to do, I suggest that you 1) visit Assistens Cemetery where Hans Christian Andersen, the Bohr family, Søren Kierkegaard, Natasja Saad, and others (incl. my old man) are buried, 2) check out Blågårds Gade and Blågårds Plads, a street and a square which are lively and fab for food, cafes, and chillin’, 3) check out Stefansgade for cafes and ice cream, 4) check out the park (well, as soon as they’re done building the metro), 5) if you like pizza, go to Ninos Delikatesse in Jagtvej (my fave spot), 6) check out Folkets Hus (meaning: the People’s House) in Stengade. If you get a sense of political left wing there, I’m not the one to say that you’re mistaking. I do remember their cafe because of the sustainability for one; the beer is organic and on one occasion I remember a freegan cake. I can’t remember how it is with their coffee, but I’m guessing organic and fairtrade – and I wouldn’t be surprised if all of their products are certified as such (if not both, then at least organic).

    If you need a church in the area and don’t mind it being in Danish, check out Brorsons Kirke (www.brorsons.dk) and The Gospel Fellowship’s gospel services in Hellig Kors Kirke, the gospel music being in English (www.gospelfellowship.dk). Both are Lutheran, Brorsons and Hellig Kors being Church of Denmark (I’m not certain how the arrangement is with the Fellowship – but faith/scripturewise they have the same base as the Church of Denmark).

    … I should really be doing a Google Map of my Nørrebro, shouldn’t I? 😀
    Unna´s last blog post ..On Politics

    • Reply
      March 31, 2012 at 11:14 pm

      @Unna Thanks so much for your Norrebro tips – I didn’t get to see Karamelleriat I’m afraid but I did have a quick walk past the grave of Hans Christian Andersen, sounds like I should have spent the weekend there checking out all these interesting things.

  • Reply
    March 31, 2012 at 9:25 pm

    @Sherry Ott – well, we only have two Starbucks in Denmark, and they’re located in the Copenhagen Airport (one by arrivals, one after check-in). Easy as that! 😀

    If one is after a chain of coffee shops, one could look for Baresso or Riccos Kaffebar.
    Unna´s last blog post ..On Politics

  • Reply
    April 1, 2012 at 3:27 pm

    @Heather – I’m so glad you say that – some may see the area as being too far on the dodgy side to visit (which I strongly disagree with. Please do come check it out, everybody!).

    Karamelleriet is a place making their own caramels, fudge, etc. – the place in Jægersborggade is their flagship store and main site of production. They now also have shops in Svaneke on Bornholm and in Marielyst on Falster (last one with a fudge workshop) and usually have a stall at the Christmas market in Tivoli.
    Unna´s last blog post ..On Politics

  • Reply
    Food specialities of Toulouse - France | Heather on her travels
    April 8, 2012 at 3:02 pm

    […] Eat the Neighbourhood in Nørrebro, Copenhagen Where to find truly great tapas in Barcelona Bratwurst and Sacher Torte – or what we ate in Salzburg […]

  • Reply
    June 23, 2012 at 2:52 pm

    This sounds like one neighbourhood I would enjoy! I’m all about the baked goods. 🙂
    Audrey´s last blog post ..Introducing Backpacking Travel Blog

    • Reply
      June 24, 2012 at 9:47 am

      @Audrey You’d love the bread & cakes in the Claus Mayer bakery with a cup of coffee from Coffee Collective

  • Reply
    August 7, 2012 at 2:24 pm

    Hi, Heather!
    I am moving to Copenaghen and I am trying to find a studio at an affordable price. As far as I could verify, Nørrebro has the lowest rental prices but I am a little bit concerned about its safety conditions. I have heard that from time to time there are riots between rival bands…. What do you think? Should I avoid that area?

    Thank you!


    • Reply
      August 7, 2012 at 9:49 pm

      @Giovanni Bear in mind that I was only in the Norrebro neighbourhood for a couple of hours, so I can’t give you a local’s view. However, I’d say that it would depend on your personal perspective as to whether you view a neighbourhood like Norrebro as vibrant & bohemian or not slightly dodgy. On the one hand there are some great bars and restaurants including 2 Michelin star restaurants, on the other I saw drug dealers on the streets. Persoanally if I was single or a couple and not too worried about such things I’d give it a go but probably not if I had children.

  • Reply
    August 8, 2012 at 1:26 am

    @Giovanni and Heather – believe it or not, Nørrebro is also child-friendly; the best integrated institution (in this case: integrated day nursery and kindergarten with separated age groups, but common play ground) I know of is in the area, located right next to Brorson’s Church, probably one of the best known churches in Denmark for different reasons.

    I have lived there for a few years without getting into trouble of any kind. It’s not that I haven’t noticed the people dealing marijuana or been able to avoid the weekly demonstrations following the demolition of Ungdomshuset (the old one) completely – but the dealers don’t bother you if you’re merely passing by, and the demonstrations against the demolition aren’t happening anymore (probably because a new Ungdomshus has been taken into use in another area of town). I think that one can easily make a mountain of a molehill if one’s only source of learning about Nørrebro is the news instead of personal presence (for longer than a couple of hours, that is).

    Speaking as a local, I’m saying that Nørrebro is a wonderful area which I encourage you to move to. The only placees it seems to become depressing is if you follow the street Lundtoftegade or go further north-west of Nørrebro trainstation than Café AE, and perhaps only until you hit Frederiksberg.

    Besides what I mentioned in a previous comment, I love the local cinema (Empire Bio – if you like soup, you can eat in Soupanatural down the street before or after the movie) and adore the local theater (as in live on stage), Nørrebro Teater.
    The local brewery, Nørrebro Bryghus, has its own restaurant and is down the street from the theater.
    Unfortunately, the café at Folkets Hus seems to be closed – perhaps only temporarily for renovation. Fortunately one can find many good places around Blågårds Plads and Sankt Hans Torv.
    I have no idea why I didn’t mention those earlier.
    Unna´s last blog post ..♥ Priviledges

    • Reply
      August 8, 2012 at 9:33 pm

      @Unna Thanks so much for giving the local’s perspective, it’s good to get your recommendation for all that Norrebro has to offer.

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