Our Kerala itinerary – amazing 10 day trip in southern India

Head to the south west tip of India to enjoy the lush green state of Kerala, with golden beaches, tropical palms and sleepy lagoons, living up to its name of God’s own country. We offer ideas for a Kerala itinerary, based on our 10 day trip, with additional suggestions for those who want to stay longer.

From the atmospheric trading port of Old Kochi, we headed inland to the cooler tea plantations of Munnar, then floated around on the backwaters near Alappuzha, ending with a laid back beach stay at Varkala.

The slower pace and natural beauty of Kerala makes a relaxing change from the overwhelming experience in other parts of India. It’s one of the most prosperous regions of India, historically wealthy from trade, and more recently from a well educated population who go to work overseas, especially in the Gulf States.

If you are an independent traveller, this article will help with your planning. For those taking an organised tour we hope you’ll get a flavour of what to expect on the journey.

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Our Kerala 10 day itinerary – overview

Here’s a quick summary of our Kerala itinerary. The accommodation suggested below is our top pick for a mid-range budget, but there are lots more options later in the article.

Day 1 – arrive in Kochi by train or plane – explore or relax in your hotel (book 2 nights here – boutique waterfront hotel)

Day 2 – explore Kochi

Day 3 – Drive to Munnar (book 2 nights here – heritage tea planter’s bungalow)

Day 4 – Explore Munnar

Day 5 – Drive to Alappuzha and join your houseboat (book 1 night here – luxury eco-houseboat)

Day 6 – check out of your houseboat and into a lakeside hotel (book 1 night here – luxury lakeside eco-resort)

Day 7 – check out of hotel and drive to Varkala (book 3 nights here – stylish guest house)

Day 8 – Explore and relax in Varkala

Day 9 – Explore and relax in Varkala

Day 10 – Drive to Thiriruvananthapuram airport to fly home or to another part of India

A 14 day Kerala itinerary – if you have more time

If you have more time and wish to make a 14 day Kerala itinerary, we suggest adding a couple of days in either the Periyar Wildlife sanctuary near Thekkady, or the Parambikulam Reserve near Palakkad, as well as an extra day in Kochi. You could also add an extra day in any of the locations mentioned, as there’s so much to see.

Where is Kerala?

Kerala is the state within India, that’s located in the south west tip of the country. The principle cities in Kerala are Kochi (Cochin) located in the centre of the state, and the state capital of Thiruvananthapurum (Trivandrum) to the south.

Much of the state runs along the coast, with lush green vegetation and golden beaches, backed by inland lakes and waterways known as the Backwaters.

Moving inland towards the border with Tamil Nadu, are the Western Ghats, a mountain range offering tea estates and cooler temperatures. Heading north you’ll pass through the state of Karnataka, whose principle city is Bengaluru (Bangalore), and beyond to the reach the beaches of Goa.

Arriving in Kochi

Arriving by air

Many travellers arrive at Kochi Airport, on an internal flight from one of the larger airport hubs in India or via the Gulf States. Cochin international airport is located outside the city, around 45 minutes drive from Fort Kochi.

If you want to take a taxi to your hotel, go to the pre-paid taxi stand outside the airport. Here you will be informed of the price and be given a ticket with this rate to give to the driver. You then pay the driver directly at the end of your journey. Buses are also available from the airport to both Fort Kochi and Ernakulum.

Arriving by train

Another common way to arrive in Kochi is by long distance train, from other major cities in India. We travelled on the overnight train from Bangalore, which arrived in Kochi early in the morning.

Be aware that seats and sleeper compartments in 1st and 2nd class for long distance trains tend to book up well ahead. It’s best to either use your travel agent to book a seat / sleeper compartment in advance, or to make a reservation at any major station, as soon as you arrive in India.

About Kochi

The second city of Kerala, Kochi (formerly Cochin) is a collection of islands and peninsulas on the coast, surrounded by lakes and inland waterways. Most of the tourist attractions are in the peninsula of Old Kochi, while across the water is the bustling modern city and port of Ernakulam.

As a tourist you’ll spend most of your time in the Old Kochi neighbourhood, with layers of Dutch, Portuguese, British and Jewish influence. In Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, old mansions and waterfront warehouses have been converted into hotels and restaurants, with charming views over the open sea and harbour on either side of the peninsula.

Things to do in Kochi

In Fort Kochi:

If you are short of time, we recommend this 3 hour walking tour covering the highlights of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry that we mention below.

Chinese fishing nets

See the fishermen at the Chinese nets, and help to operate them if you are happy to offer a tip. These fishing nets are lowered from jetties along the shore, but the most photographed ones in Fort Kochi operate mainly for the benefit of the tourists. There are stalls selling fresh fish, which you can buy and take to a nearby food stall to be cooked.

Sunset walk on the beach promenade

Walk along the beachfront promenade between Vasco da Gama Square where the Chinese fishing nets are located and Old Lighthouse Beach. This is one of the top things to do in Kochi at sunset, with street food stalls and cafes open near the beach.

Unfortunately the beaches are not suitable for swimming, due to the large amount of weed that is washed up, and the water pollution in the busy lake channel.

A fun way to explore Fort Kochi is on this half day cycle tour that covers all the sightseeing highlights, with a chance to explore local neighbourhoods.

Historic churches in Fort Kochi

Visit the imposing Santa Cruz Basilica, built in 1887 on the site of a much older church, with pretty interiors and stained glass.

Nearby is the smaller and plainer Church of St Francis, dating back to the 16th century. Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama was originally buried here, before his body was moved back to Portugal.

Art and street art in Kochi

Relax in an art cafe such as David Hall Gallery or Kashi Art Cafe, both of which have art exhibitions and sculptures on display as well as selling great coffee, brunch and lunch dishes.

As you wander around Fort Kochi, look out for street art and murals, especially around the area of Pepper House which has a great gift shop selling artisan souvenirs. This is the base for the Kochi – Muziris Biennale exhibition of contemporary art, which is held every 2 years.

Kathakali Show

Take in a Kathakali Show to experience this dance form which is traditionally performed in Hindu temples, telling the stories of the gods. One of the best and most accessible for tourists is at Kerala Kathakali Center opposite Santa Cruz Basilica, which offers nightly performances. Ask your hotel to prebook your ticket and request a seat near the front so that you get a good view during the performance.

If you are short of time, we recommend this 3 hour walking tour that covers the highlights of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.

In Mattancherry:

Mattancherry Palace

Mattancherry Palace is also known as the Dutch Palace and was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century as a gift for the Raja of Cochin. The palace is known for the gorgeous original wall murals illustrating stories from the Hindu Ramayana, as well as old maps, robes, weapons and furniture belonging to the royal family.

Jew Town and the Pardesi Synagogue

Walk along the pretty streets of Jew town, where there are numerous antique and souvenir shops. There was a large Jewish population in Kochi from the 1500s, increased by the Pardesi (literally foreign) Jews fleeing persecution in the 16th century from Spain and Portugal.

Most of the Pardesi community emigrated to Israel after Indian independence, a reason why many antique shops grew up in this neighbourhood to sell off their possessions. Visit the Pardesi Synagogue, erected in the 17th century, with its beautiful chandeliers and painted Dutch tiles.

If you are short of time, we recommend this 2 hour walking tour of Jew Town, which covers all the highlights of the vibrant neighbourhoods of Mattancherry and Jew Town.

Soak up the atmosphere of Bazaar Road

Wander from Mattancherry palace, north along Bazaar Road, with its atmospheric but crumbling riverfront warehouses and wholesalers of pepper, chillis and other spices.

A great way to see Old Kochi is on this private half day tuk tuk tour, where you’ll visit all the main sights and get the insights of a knowledgeable driver / guide.

Ferry from Old Kochi to Ernakulam

Take the ferry across the lake to Ernakulum, the modern part of Kochi. Unless you are into modern shopping malls, we don’t recommend spending much time here, but the inexpensive crossing is great fun to get views from the water. You can also stop off halfway at Willingdon Island, to wander around the lakeside park.

Where to stay in Kochi

As most visitors to Kochi will only spend a couple of days there, we recommend staying close to the main sites of Old Kochi, around Fort Kochi or Mattancherry. There are numerous hotels and homestays in Fort Kochi, with a good range also in Mattancherry and on the northern tip of the peninsula between them.

Staying in Fort Kochi will give you access to most of the tourist attractions within an easy walk, as well as a wide range of restaurants. Fort Kochi is where I would recommend you stay as a solo traveller, since you can safely walk around on well lit streets at night to find places to eat.

This 10 day itinerary for Kerala allows 2 nights in Kochi and we recommend Bloom Boutique Waterfront (boutique heritage hotel where we stayed) or Old Harbour Hotel (luxury heritage hotel).

We stayed at Bloom Boutique Waterfront Hotel in Mattancherry, which was full of atmosphere with lakeside views, a 15 minute tuk tuk ride away from Fort Kochi.

There are a few hotels on Willingdon Island, but for a short visit this is a less convenient location, since you will need to take a ferry and tuk tuk to reach the tourist sites of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.

Another possibility is to stay in the modern city of Ernakulam just across the water from Old Kochi. While this is conveniently close for the airport and train stations, it’s a noisy and bustling area that cannot match the heritage charm of Fort Kochi.

If staying in Fort Kochi or Mattancherry, we recommend staying in one of the many heritage hotels or homestays / guest houses that have been converted from old mansions or warehouses, sometimes overlooking the lake. Check out all the hotels in Kochi.

Hotels in Kochi

Check our top picks for hotels in Kochi below. If you are on a tight budget, we recommend booking one of the numerous guest houses or homestays within the Fort Kochi area.

Travelling on to Munnar

From Kochi we’ll head inland to the higher altitude and cooler climate of Munnar. There are no trains running from Kochi to Munnar and we do not recommend hiring a car to drive yourself in India. The best way to get from Kochi to Munnar is by private taxi (our recommendation) or by bus (budget alternative).

For our Kerala itinerary you’ll spend 2 nights in Munnar. We recommend you book at the Windermere Estate (heritage tea bungalow) or Green Valley Vista Guest House (budget guest house), although there are many more hotels in Munnar.

By taxi to Munnar

The fastest and most pleasant way to travel between Kochi and Munnar is to arrange a taxi transfer with driver. This can be easily arranged by whichever hotel you decide to stay with in Kochi or Munnar. Contact your hotel in advance (ideally at least 24 hours notice) to check prices and make arrangements.

We ended up using the taxi service arranged by our hotel in Munnar. The journey took around 4-5 hours and we stopped for lunch around half way, at a local restaurant recommended by our driver, as well as at some waterfalls close to Munnar.

Expect to pay £55-60 for this taxi service for 2 people plus luggage. If you are a bigger group and need a larger vehicle prices may be higher.

For long distance taxis in India, be sure to check that the price you are quoted includes government taxes, fuel and tolls. Also check that you will have an English speaking driver, who will be happy to stop at any viewpoints or photo stops along the way, in case there is an extra charge for such detours.

By bus to Munnar

If you are on a tight budget and are not pressed for time, there is the option of taking a bus from Kochi to Munnar. We heard that there is an air conditioned bus that leaves from Fort Kochi bus station (on the north tip of the Old Kochi peninsula) once a day, early in the morning.

Alternatively, take the ferry from Mattancherry to Ernakulam, then take a tuk tuk to the bus station. There are several local buses a day from Ernakulam bus station to Munnar run by the KSRTC (Kerala state road transport company). Either way the journey is likely to take 5-6 hours but will probably cost around £2.

About Munnar

If you’ve found the climate of Kochi hot and steamy, the cool air and misty tea estates of Munnar will provide a refreshing contrast. At an altitude of 2500m, Munnar sits in Kerala’s High Range on the edge of the Western Ghats that divide the states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.

The high rainfall creates a lush green landscape of forests, lakes and tea estates, with rolling mists and plenty of opportunities for hiking. Munnar town is set in a valley, with winding roads leading in all directions to viewpoints, tea estates and national parks.

Since the guest houses and main attractions are quite spread out, you will need to book a tour through your accommodation or with a tuk tuk driver to get around and see them.

Munnar is also very popular with Indian tourists, who come by the coach load to enjoy the cooler temperatures and natural landscapes.

Be aware that the roads are particularly busy at weekends and national holidays, when the main viewpoints are packed with mini buses and coaches. However, you can easily find some space by getting off road and going for hikes through the tea estates.

Things to do in Munnar

Drive up to Top Station

Take a tour by jeep or tuk tuk up to “Top Station”, the highest point on the road heading east out of Munnar. It will take around an hour on a snaking road from Munnar town to reach this popular viewpoint. It’s worth setting off early, as at most times of year the views are shrouded by mist that rolls in by mid-morning.

Reservoir Views

On the way up to Top Station, there are scenic viewpoints of the two reservoirs (Mattupetty and Kundala reservoir) that supply water to the surrounding region. You can also walk onto the two dams at the bottom of each reservoir, with the Kundala lake dam offering plenty of street food and other stalls aimed at the mainly Indian tourists.

Tea estate tours by vehicle

Take in the scenic views on a tour through the tea estates, on narrow tracks that service the estates. This one is difficult to do without a guide, since the tea estates are private property, and you need to know where to go.

Tours are offered by jeep or by tuk tuk, with photo stops at some of the most scenic points. If you go by tuk tuk bear in mind that the tracks are quite rough, so it will be a bumpy ride.

Hiking around Munnar

There are also plenty of opportunities for hiking through the tea estates, and again you need to go with a guide, to ensure that you are not trespassing. You may be dropped off by tuk tuk and then spend a couple of hours on a guided walk, taking in the most scenic views.

More demanding half day and full day hikes in the hills around Munnar are also available. Hiking is a good way to get off the roads, which are often crowded with Indian coach parties, since hiking seems to be less popular with local tourists.

Tea Factory visits

Visit a tea factory, to learn how the tea is made and get plenty of opportunity to taste or buy their tea in the factory gift shop. If you take the tour to “Top Station” the Madupatty Tea Factory is a very popular stop on the way back.

We found it very busy when we arrived, so decided instead to visit the Tea Museum on the edge of Munnar Town. The museum shows a video about the area’s history and has a demonstration of the tea process, so we found it an interesting visit.

Another tea estate that offers a “Make your own tea” experience is Lockhart Estate, on the road that runs south east from Munnar.

Wander around Munnar town

Munnar town, located at the confluence of three streams, is worth a wander around if you have time. You can soak up the bustling atmosphere and colourful bazaar, but otherwise it’s similar to many other Indian towns. If time is limited, you’re probably better enjoying the scenery outside the town.

Waterfalls around Munnar

If you drive up to Munnar from Kochi as we did, ask the driver to stop at the two waterfalls that are around 45 minutes before you arrive at Munnar. The first is the Cheeyappara waterfall, a truly impressive falls, that can be easily seen from the road, attracting numerous India coach parties, all jostling to take a selfie.

Just 5 minutes drive up the road is the smaller Valara Waterfalls, which seemed a lot less popular, although you can walk down to the falls and take a dip in the pool below the lowest cascade. There are numerous other waterfalls in the area, although these seemed most popular, being right by the road.

Wild Elephant Experiences

On the final section road from Kochi as we approached Munnar, we noticed many signs for elephant attractions, with promotional photos show people riding on the backs of elephants. We prefer not to support captive elephant experiences, especially elephant rides, since there are so many issues around the treatment of the animals.

Some tours include a visit to a river near Anakulam, where the mineral composition of the water attracts groups of wild elephants to drink in the afternoon and evening. As with any wild animal experience, there is no guarantee what you will see, and the elephants may appear in smaller or larger numbers, or not at all.

National Parks

If you have time and are prepared for a 1-2 hour drive, you can visit a couple of nearby national parks. The Eravikulam National Park is known as one of the last places to see the rare Nilgiri Tahr mountain goat, while the Chinnar wildlife sanctuary is known for numerous bird species, giant squirrels, monkeys and other animals.

Where to stay in Munnar

The spread out nature of Munnar means that accommodation tends to be in guest houses or small hotels that are located along the winding roads radiating from the town itself. A legacy of the colonial era, there are many tea bungalows around Munnar, that have been converted into small heritage hotels or guest houses.

While Munnar town is a convenient transport hub, staying here is not recommended, since you’ll miss out on the atmospheric views and natural scenery that are the areas’s main attraction.

I would have loved to stay in one of the heritage tea bungalows such as Windermere Estate, but as it was a holiday period everything seemed booked up.

We stayed instead at a budget guest house, the Green Valley Vista, which was well run and excellent value, with lovely views from all the rooms. As a bonus, the guest house has a busy tours and taxi business and we were able to arrange our tour of Munnar through them.

This 10 day itinerary for Kerala allows 2 nights in Munnar, with one of those days spent travelling and the second day for sightseeing.

Travelling to the Kerala Backwaters

From Munnar, we travelled by taxi transfer to the area of Allepuzzha / Alleppey in the Kerala backwaters. As before, the taxi transfer was arranged in advance through our hotel, and you should expect to pay £55-60 for a one way transfer. The journey takes around 4 hours and since most houseboats check in around 12-1pm, we set off early and arrived at lunchtime.

If you have more time, you could take a local bus from Munnar to Allepuzzha (Alleppey,) but the journey will take 5-6 hours. In that case you might need to stay an extra night or two around Alleppey, which is more than this itinerary allows.

For this Kerala itinerary you’ll stay 2 nights in the Kerala backwaters around Allepuzzha and we recommend booking 1 night on the Spice Coast Cruises houseboat and 1 night at Coconut Lagoon luxury eco-resort, both run by CGH Earth. You can also check out other houseboats and hotels near Allepuzzha in the Kerala Backwaters.

About the Kerala Backwaters

The network of lakes and inland waterways that run behind the coast of Kerala are one the most scenic and iconic parts of this region. Ferries and houseboats (Kettu Vellam) ply the waters of Vembanad Lake, while everyday life goes on along the narrower channels that offer the main way to get around by boat.

Due to the popularity of the backwaters, in particular the area around Alleppey, the number of houseboats has grown to more than 600 in recent years, contributing to issues of water pollution. We observed a lot of plastic bottles, caught in the weeds of the backwater channels, that get washed into the backwaters from the cities.

While wanting to experience this unique environment, we were mindful of minimising our impact on the delicate eco-system. For this reason, we decided to spend one night on a houseboat on Vembanad Lake, while the second night was spent in a lakeside hotel.

This way we had the fun of staying on board the houseboat, but on our second day were able to take a tour from the hotel on a smaller boat. We explored some of the narrower channels, enabling us to enjoy the birdlife, spot some wild otters and see daily life on the riverbank.

Booking a Houseboat in the Kerala Backwaters

If you are haven’t booked anything in advance, you can just turn up at Alleppey where most of the houseboats are moored and see what is available. Because you’ll probably be subjected to a hard sell, it’s worth doing some research on companies and houseboat styles in advance. Due to the cost of fuel and staff, a houseboat will cost more than staying in a lakeside hotel or guest house.

If possible, you should go on board to check the standard and style of interiors before booking. Houseboats range in size from traditional style with one or two cabins, to much bigger ‘double decker’ styles that may have up to 5 cabins and modern luxury features.

Some also have viewing areas that are glassed in to allow for air conditioning. While we had air conditioned bedrooms, our houseboat had open sided seating area to allow uninterrupted views from the boat, which we preferred.

Personally I think it’s better to book a one or two cabin houseboat for a more private experience, as if you are a couple booking on a larger boat, you may be sharing the boat with strangers.

A day on the houseboat

The houseboats generally board at 12-1pm and you’ll spend the afternoon cruising around Vembanad lake, as well as some of the channels and waterways between man made islands used as rice paddies.

By 6pm the houseboat is obliged by law to moor up on the lakeside and stay there overnight. In our case the night was spent moored at the private landing station owned by Spice Coast Cruises.

In the early morning, the houseboat will set off again and after breakfast you will normally disembark around 10am. Typically lunch, dinner and breakfast is included in the daily cost of your houseboat although any wine or beer you request will be charged as an extra.

On some houseboats, you may pass by a fish market, allowing you to purchase fresh fish for your evening meal, although this was included on our boat. If you’ve had good service from your crew, a tip is customary at the end of the trip.

It’s worth having a look at the houseboats available through Booking.com as you can see the different types and book them in the same way as a hotel room. Search on accommodation in Alleppey and then filter for Boats. We can personally recommend Spice Coast Cruises who we booked with, operating traditionally built and eco-friendly houseboats.

How eco-friendly is my houseboat?

One consideration before you book is how eco-friendly your houseboat will be. There’s a classification scheme of silver, gold and diamond ratings run by the Kerala government, although we did not observe this being widely used. Instead you may need to ask questions like:

• Is the houseboat made of natural materials? The traditional rice barges that were converted into houseboats are made of wood and coir, covered with a roof of bamboo and woven palm leaves. Booking a traditionally made houseboat helps keep the local boatbuilding crafts alive.

• How is the houseboat powered? Most have a diesel engine but traditionally the rice barge would have been moved by punts and some of this type are still available.

• What power is used for lighting, fans and air conditioning? The most eco-friendly have solar panels or are powered from a battery that is charged onshore by solar power. Boats that use the cooling natural breezes in living areas are better for the environment than those that are fully enclosed and air conditioned.

• How is waste disposed of or recycled? Most houseboats now have a septic tank for shower and toilet waste that is emptied on shore. No waste should be discharged into the lake.

• Are the staff trained in sustainable practices and does the company owning the houseboat prioritise sustainable practices or mention this on their website?

Because we wanted to support best practice, we decided to book our houseboat through Spice Coast Cruises, owned by luxury operator CGH Earth, who are known for their sustainable practices.

Things to do in the Kerala Backwaters

On the Kerala Backwaters, it’s all about relaxation and soaking up the peaceful atmosphere of the lakes and water ways. You don’t need to rent a houseboat to do this, indeed the houseboats are limited by their size to Vembanad lake and larger channels.

To visit the smaller waterways, you’ll need to book other types of boat tours to get the best birdwatching and wildlife experiences. All tours can easily by arranged with your hotel or guest house.

Tour by motorised canoe

Take a tour in a canoe along the smaller canals of the backwaters. We took a 2 hour private tour by motorised canoe arranged by our hotel, which was a magical way to see the bird life on the water. Our boatman was also a trained naturalist, and we were also lucky enough to see otters playing by their set in the middle of the channel.

Some canoes are much smaller, suitable for 2-3 people and are paddled by a local boatman who will point out birds and wildlife.

Kayak and SUP on the backwaters

Explore the waterways by kayak, which is the most silent and eco-friendly way to get close to nature and see the bird and wildlife on the backwaters. You may also find stand up paddle board (SUP) is on offer at some hotels.

Cycling in the backwaters

Hire a bike or borrow one from your hotel or guesthouse and ride along the narrow lanes that run alongside the canals. Our hotel offered electric bikes, which were ideal for the hot and humid weather.

Sunset cruise or day trip on the lake

Take a sunset cruise on Vembanad lake in one of the traditional Kettu Vallam boats. If you decided not to book an overnight stay on a houseboat, this is a good way to get a short taste of the experience.

Birdwatching

Our hotel offered free birdwatching walks around the property with a trained naturalist. Most of the tours using smaller boats will allow you to spot a lot of birdlife.

Yoga and Ayurveda

Most hotels will offer wellness activities, such as yoga sessions or Ayurveda talks and treatments.

Cookery classes

Many homestays and guest houses offer cookery classes, where you can learn to cook local dishes using the fish, coconut and other produce of the region.

Kathakali shows and traditional music

Larger hotels often offer evening entertainment, such as Kathakali dance shows or live traditional music. If you didn’t get a chance to see a Kathakali performance in Kochi, now is your chance.

Where to stay in the Kerala Backwaters

This 10 day Kerala itinerary allows for 2 nights in the backwaters. You can split these as we did between 1 night on a houseboat and 1 night in a lakeside hotel. Or if you prefer you could spend both nights either on a houseboat or in a hotel / guest house.

There are a number of luxury hotel resorts like Coconut Lagoon, along the banks of Vembanad Lake, many of which have heritage style wooden cottages and buildings.

A more affordable option is to stay in a guest house or homestay on the banks of one of the smaller water channels. Check whether you will get lake or river views, as being close to the water is one of the highlights of staying in the Kerala backwaters.

Travelling to Varkala

From the Kerala Backwaters near Alleppey, we headed south for the final stop of our 10 day Kerala Itinerary. After a pretty active trip, that had seen us moving on every two days, we were looking forward to some relaxing beach time at Varkala.

As before, we chose to take a private taxi between Alleppey and Varkala, which was arranged through our hotel. Expect to pay around £50 for this option, which takes 2.5 – 3 hours. A good alternative, which is much cheaper, is to take the train between Alleppey and Varkala (around 2 hours), although you’ll have to rent a tuk tuk at either end to take you to / from the station.

We decided to book 3 nights at the beach resort of Varkala, since we wanted somewhere with beautiful scenery and a good choice of restaurants and places to stay. We recommend booking 3 nights at Villa Akasa in Varkala, where we stayed.

About Varkala

Along this stretch of coast, Varkala is perhaps one of the most scenic beach spots, with cliffs that rise behind a long stretch of sandy beach. It’s become something of a backpacker hot spot, but we quite liked the buzzing atmosphere, and you can find places to stay that are relaxed and quiet away from the main strip.

Varkala is a place of pilgrimage for Hindus, who travel here for ceremonies to commemorate their deceased loved ones and scatter their ashes in the sea. The rituals take place on Papanasam beach, which is the section between North Cliff and South Cliff Beaches, so you need to be respectful in this area.

Most swimming and sunbathing takes place on the beach immediately below North Cliff, where there is a lifeguard, as the surf can be quite high. On the cliff top above is a strip of tourist shops and restaurants, where you can chill out with a coffee, juice or smoothie in the day, surrounded by travellers with their laptops.

As night falls, the restaurants along North cliff are buzzing, with many offering live music. Fresh fish is a speciality and can be chosen from the displays on ice. Fishing boats offer a magical display from their lights bobbing on the horizon.

South Cliff is the quieter area to stay, with a more residential feel, although a growing number of guest houses and beach bars are springing up along the cliff. We enjoyed staying in South Cliff, with its easy access to the almost deserted beach, via steep paths that take you down from the top of the cliff.

Great care should be taken when swimming here, as there is a steep drop in level and undertow at certain times of the tide, so take local advice and stay close to shore.

Things to do in Varkala

Swim and sunbathe

Top of the things to do in Varkala must be enjoying the long stretch of beach under both North and South cliff. If you want to swim and sunbathe, it’s best to stick to North cliff beach, where there’s a lifeguard and sun beds to rent.

Be aware that the surf can be quite high and the current strong at certain times of the tide, so observe the no-swim zones and the warning whistles of the lifeguards. On South cliff beach there are no lifeguards and a strong undertow, so take great care if swimming here.

Beach walks

Even if you don’t want to swim, it’s a lovely walk right along the beach from South to North beach. From the end of North cliff you can also continue to Odayam and Edava, where the beach ends and the lagoon begins. Of course, due to the heat, you may need to set off early in the morning for this one.

Chill in a clifftop cafe

Watch the world go by from one of the numerous cafes set on both North and South cliff. They tend to cater for an international backpacker crowd, so you can easily find your favourite coffee, smoothie or brunch dishes. Our favourites on South cliff were Cafe is Life and Cafe Sarwaa and on North cliff there are numerous options including San Francisco run by Mad about Coco guesthouse.

Cookery classes

We took a very enjoyable cookery class with chef Sajeer Khan, known as Khan the cook – find him on Tripadvisor or Instagram @Khanthecook. Khan’s classes are for groups of up to six in his own home (moved from the North cliff restaurant where they were previously held).

He tailors the menu depending on what you’d like to cook and shops each day for the fresh produce to make the lunch, which you then eat together at the end of the class.

Yoga and Ayurveda

If looking for wellness activities, there are numerous Yoga and Ayurveda centres in Varkala. In the entrance of Trip is Life cafe on South Cliff is the small Bhumiveda Ayurvedic centre, which we found to be excellent if you want to consult an Ayurvedic doctor or have a treatment.

Surfing in Varkala

On the beaches where the surf can be high, as you might expect there are surfing lessons on offer with several surf schools in Varkala. Surfing for beginners is best in the early morning and at low tide, when the current is not as strong.

You really do need to go with an instructor to start with, as they can advise on the safest places to surf. The surfing season is from November to March, with a break during the monsoon season.

Where to stay in Varkala

The main decision is whether to stay in the buzzing North Cliff or quieter South Cliff areas of Varkala. For backpackers and solo travellers, the decision is likely to be North Cliff, with easy access to cafes, shops and restaurants. This is where most of the accommodation is concentrated, in the network of lanes and roads behind the cliff and leading from the helipad, where the tuk tuks wait.

We preferred quieter South Cliff. While there is less choice of accommodation, a few hotels perch on the cliff edge as well as boutique guest houses like Villa Akasa where we stayed. We loved the location of Villa Akasa, with 5 spacious ensuite guest rooms, each with its own verandah facing the shady garden.

Just across the lane was a stylish clifftop cafe “Trip is Life” where we could sip a smoothie or coffee with a view of the ocean and descend via steps to the beach.

Much of the accommodation in Varkala is in guest houses or smaller hotels, and there are no larger international resorts. As an alternative to Villa Akasa, we heard good things about similar guest houses Mad about Coco (North cliff) and Villa Jacaranda (South cliff). You can also look at other hotels in Varkala

Other beach resorts in south Kerala

If you want an alternative to Varkala to relax at the end of your trip, here are some other beach resorts to consider.

Odayam and Edava

Heading north of Varkala, the beautiful beach continues, although this stretch of coastline is much less developed. You can actually walk directly from Varkala North cliff to explore this empty beach, backed by a lagoon.

In Odayam and Edava there are smaller guest houses close to the beach and this area could be a good alternative if you want peace and quiet, but with easy access to the restaurants and shops of Varkala. We like the look of Tamarind Villa in Odayam, which has its own pool.

Mararikulam

Many tour companies will arrange your final few nights at the beach resort of Maranikulam, which is between Kochi and Alleppey. This is the most convenient resort if you are flying back out of Cochin International Airport, which is 1.5 hours drive from Maranikulam, rather than Thiruvananthapuram airport which is closer to Varkala.

The white sand beaches make a relaxing end to your stay in Kerala. Most of the accommodation here is in larger resorts so there isn’t such a range of restaurants and things to do as at Varkala.

Maranikulam is a good choice if you just want to relax before your flight out from Kochi. We recommend treating yourself to an eco-friendly and luxurious stay at Marari Beach Hotel with CGH Earth.

Kovalam

South of Varkala and Thiruvanathapuram is the lively and popular resort of Kovalam. There are two sandy bays lined with hotels and restaurants, overlooked by a picturesque red striped lighthouse on the headland. Kovalam is popular with British sunseekers and European devotees of Ayurveda, but from what we read it has become too built up and busy for our tastes.

Best time to visit Kerala

The best time to visit Kerala is from December to February, when the days are generally dry, clear and sunny. Temperatures are likely to be around 30 degrees celsius but humidity is lower than other times of year.

We visited Kerala in mid November and experienced mostly sunny days, with a few that were overcast and the odd rain shower. The months of October and November are ‘shoulder’ season, when you will still get generally good weather but experience some showers and humidity.

For the rest of the year, temperatures are consistently around 30 degrees celsius, but the main consideration is the monsoon rains. From March – April, the heat and humidity starts to build up, broken by short showers, so this could still be a good time to visit. However from June to September is monsoon season, with heavy rains that will seriously curtail your sightseeing and beach time.

Getting around in Kerala

We used a combination of train, auto rickshaw and private taxi to get around Kerala. Buses are also available, but offer a more crowded, local experience, taking a lot longer on both short and long journeys.

In general, we found that train and private taxi were most efficient way to travel longer distances and auto-rickshaws ( or taxis for larger groups) are ideal for shorter distances in cities and towns.

Car hire is not widely available, and is not an ideal option in India, with the traffic congestion, horns and Indian driving style that is scarily different to that of Europe.

Trains within Kerala

The trains from Kochi run from the station in Ernakulam (the modern part of Kochi) south to Alapphuza and Kottayam, then further via Kollam and on Thiruvanthapurum. The rail line also runs north from Kochi, roughly skirting the coast. Branch lines also run eastwards towards Tamil Nadu.

If you are on a budget and have time to spare, the train could be a viable and enjoyable option to get from Kochi to Alapphuza, Kottayam or Kollam or from Thiruvanthapurum to the same. Otherwise we recommend a pre-booked taxi as the most efficient way to move around.

The system of booking long distance and overnight trains can be quite complicated, with seats often booked up some time ahead. We recommend asking your travel agent to book these, or otherwise booking directly at any station as soon as you arrive in India.

For shorter legs of an hour or two, simply buy your ticket on the day at the station, requesting either 2nd class or 1st class to ensure you get a reserved seat.

Private taxi within Kerala

Most of the journeys between each stop on our itinerary took 3-4 hours, and we decided the best way to make these was by private taxi. This is easily arranged before you arrive by messaging your hotel or accommodation. Hotels will either have a preferred taxi provider or give you the name of a taxi service they recommend.

Once you provide details of start and finish points, date / time of journey and number of passengers / luggage, you will be quoted a price. We paid around £50-60 for most of the 4 hour journeys that we took for 2-3 people, allowing for a lunchtime stop and some photo stops at place of interest.

If you have not prearranged a taxi, just ask your hotel on arrival, and normally it can be arranged with 24 hours notice. Typically the driver would stop around half way for a lunchtime break at a cafe they recommend, normally somewhere that will serve local food but be acceptable to western tastes.

Auto Rickshaw in Kerala

We found auto rickshaws or tuk tuks were a fun way to get around in towns and cities. Fares for a 10-15 minute ride were around £1-2. Meters may be used, but probably not unless you insist.

We found it was easier to check and agree a price before entering the tuk tuk, since there is a ‘going rate’ for most journeys. Alternatively you can check with your hotel what is a typical rate for each journey. You need to keep small change to ideally pay the exact amount for each ride.

We found that auto rickshaws were easy to find in towns and they often toot you as they pass by to see if you want a ride. If you don’t easily find one, you can also use Uber and other online taxi services (check which apps are used locally) to summon an auto rickshaw or taxi. This is also a good way to check what the ‘going rate’ is for a ride.

In Kochi, tuk tuk drivers may offer you a ‘tour’ for a bargain price of 100 rupees (around £1). While you will pass by all the main tourist spots, there will also be 2 or 3 stops at tourist gift shops.

The driver will receive a commission or fuel voucher, hence offering the tour at such a low price, and you may find it difficult to get out of the shop without buying something. If you are genuinely interested in a tuk tuk tour, better to make it clear you don’t want any souvenir stops and negotiate a fair price to reflect this.

Drivers may also ask a ‘favour’ that they drop you (with no obligation) at the souvenir shop, so that they can get their fuel voucher, which we politely declined.

Map of our Kerala itinerary

Below is a detailed map of our Kerala itinerary with the route, hotels and things to do – click on this link to our Kerala itinerary or on the map image below to enlarge.

How to get to Kerala

The gateway cities for most visitors to Kerala are Kochi (Cochin) and Thiruvanthapuram (Trivandrum). If visiting the northern part of Kerala or heading north along the coast to Goa, you may also pass through the city of Kozhikode (Calicut). All three cities have international airports and busy train stations.

Most international travellers flying to India, will probably pass through one of the popular airport hubs, such as Delhi or Mumbai and connect on one of the many internal flights to Kochi or Thiruvanthapuram. We arrived in Kochin by train and flew out of Thiruvanthapuram airport.

Other popular connections are via Colombo in Sri Lanka, or through the Gulf states. From Thiruvanthapuram and Cochin airport, there are numerous flights via United Arab Emirates, since many Keralans go there for work.

If you are travelling around India and prefer not to take the plane to reach Kerala, long distance train travel could be another option. We took an enjoyable overnight train ride from Bangalore to Kochi, which a local friend had booked for us in advance.

The long distance and overnight trains tend to book up well in advance. So if you want to use this more sustainable way to travel, you may need to book tickets in person at any major station, as soon as you arrive in India, or enlist the services of a reputable travel agent or local friend.

It would take too long here to go into the complexities of booking long distance train tickets in India, but do read up on it before you arrive.

Where to stay in Kerala

Here’s a summary of the best places to stay in Kerala on our 10 day itinerary

Where to stay in Kochi (2 nights)

Where to stay in Munnar (2 nights)

Houseboats in the Kerala Backwaters (1 night)

Where to stay in the Kerala Backwaters (1 night)

Where to stay in Varkala (3 nights)

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This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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