For lovers of history and heritage, The Hermitage Nevis offers an authentic taste of Caribbean island life. The old plantation inn is spread over 5 acres, with pretty gingerbread cottages scattered through lush gardens filled with palms and mango trees.
At the hotel’s heart is the historic 17th century Great House, thought to be one of the oldest houses in the Caribbean. This family run boutique hotel in Nevis offers traditional hospitality and a place to unwind at the edge of the rainforest on the slopes of Nevis peak.
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A history of The Hermitage
A plantation at The Hermitage is thought to have been established as early as the 1670s. The Great House was built some time between 1670 and 1740 and is one of the oldest wooden houses still standing in the Caribbean. That it has survived so long is down to the strength of construction with a frame made of Lignum Vitae. This extraordinarily hard wood was native to Nevis but no longer grows on the island.
In the mid 17th century the larger sugar plantations that Nevis later became known for had yet to be established. At this time the Pemberton family from England who owned The Hermitage ran a mixed plantation, growing indigo, tobacco, cotton and spices.
Land was terraced for cultivation and the original stone walling still exists in parts of the gardens. Later the Pembertons established plantations on other parts of Nevis but kept the original house due to its cooler location at 800 feet above sea level on the slopes of Nevis Peak.
Family hospitality at The Hermitage Nevis
In the 1970s, Richard Lupinacci, who was working in the Caribbean at the time, purchased the house from the descendants of the Pembertons. Vegetation had by that time completely overgrown the Great House. Richard told us how he could barely see anything of the house as he was shown the way in by a local man. Banging on the beams of the Great House, they realised that they were hard as rock, and that the structure was sound.
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What began as an impulse purchase and a restoration project, became a family home for the Lupinacci family. Gradually other traditional wooden buildings were added in the gardens to accommodate guests and Richard’s wife Maureen took charge of the decoration in Caribbean country house style. Before long it made sense to extend the home to take paying guests and create a small, family run plantation inn.
The Hermitage is one of the Nevis Hotels that offers a truly authentic plantation experience. It’s still very much a family enterprise, run jointly by Richard Lupinacci, his son Richie Lupinacci and wife Annie Lupinacci. Sadly Maureen passed away a couple of years ago, but her spirit lives on in the warm hospitality, country house style and in framed family photos on display in the Great House.
If you are interested in the history of Nevis, you can take this half day island tour from St Kitts, that includes a stop at the nearby Botanical Garden.
The Great House at The Hermitage Nevis
The Great House stands at the heart of The Hermitage with a ground floor that encompasses an elegant drawing room, reading room, dining room and bar for the use of guests. The original cross shaped structure remains, supported by the Lignum Vitae beams, although of course other parts of the wooden building have been much restored over the years.
A covered restaurant verandah garlanded with fairy lights to one side is a more recent addition. It was built when The Hermitage became a hotel, to provide more space for guests to dine, overlooking the orchards and gardens.
Caribbean antiques that the Lupinacci family have collected over the years are used to furnish the Great House. The hotel is practically a living museum, with Caribbean made cane backed wooden sofas designed to let the air flow through.
You may also enjoy my review of the nearby Montpelier Plantation & Beach – Caribbean boutique hotel in Nevis
Antique wooden chairs, tables and cabinets fill the spacious rooms, with oriental rugs and old prints of Caribbean life on the walls. Of all the hotels in Nevis, The Hermitage offers a sensation of stepping back in time. The effect is of a drawing room where Horatio Nelson, who was stationed on Nevis as a young Captain in the 1780s, might have felt at home.
Bar at The Hermitage
At one end of The Great House, a welcoming bar offers shelves laden with more different types of rum than you could count. The horse racing theme, with old pictures and racing photos, is in honour of owner Richard Lupinacci’s role as President of the Nevis Turf and Jockey Club.
In the past, regular race meetings were held at the small race track, down the hill at Indian Castle. The race course is located adjoining the windswept beach, where colourful fishing boats are now drawn up on the sand.
The Hermitage is justly famous for its Rum Punch, the recipe having been perfected over the years. In fact pretty much any kind of rum can be found in the bar, from different islands and traditions in the Caribbean.
If you are after a rum tasting with the knowledgeable bartender, this could be the perfect place. Owner Richard Lupinacci is also partial to a cigar, and they are available for guests to sit on the porch and smoke as they sip their rum.
If you are interested in the history of Nevis, you can take this half day island tour from St Kitts, that includes a stop at the nearby Botanical Garden.
Our Cottage at The Hermitage Nevis
Our accommodation was in a pretty cottage, called The Pasture. As the name suggests, it is one of the traditionally built wooden houses that was moved from another part of The Hermitage grounds, where it stood in an area of pasture.
Wooden dwellings like this are known in the Caribbean as “Chattel Houses” as they formed part of an individual’s moveable property or chattels. They could be dismantled or moved by cart to another location, since the house might be built on employer’s land.
The traditional chattel house is built with a wooden frame and walls, raised on a stone base to allow air to circulate and protect from termite damage. Ours had wooden shingles, shady hurricane shutters and an enclosed verandah with a hammock, overlooking the lawns where the Vervet monkeys would come to play in the afternoon.
Inside, the style was traditional plantation chic, with dark wood antique furniture, botanical prints and Persian rugs on the floors. Over the years the Lupinacci family have accumulated a large collection of original Caribbean antiques, like the carved mahogany sofas and chairs.
The country house style was set by the late Maureen Lupinacci, mother of Richie and wife of Richard senior, who created the hospitable feel of The Hermitage, once it moved from being a holiday home to a hotel. Our pretty four poster bed, was decorated with lace and swathed in mosquito nets, giving a romantic feel to the room.
If you are not able to stay on Nevis, you can still take these tours from nearby St Kitts
Half day Island tour of Nevis from Basseterre
Our Bathroom at The Hermitage
The bathroom was also traditional in style, with an antique wash stand and eco-friendly toiletries. We found our cottage extremely comfortable and relaxing, especially appreciating the small kitchenette area, where we could make snacks and drinks whenever we wanted.
Vervet monkeys at The Hermitage Nevis
Situated on the slopes of Nevis Peak at the edge of the rainforest, The Hermitage attracts a large troupe of Vervet monkeys. We enjoyed the show from our verandah as the monkeys played and socialised in the late afternoon on the lawns of the hotel.
Every so often there was a clatter as the monkeys would climb the mango tree close to our cottage and run across the roof. The lattice of the verandah provides a barrier against the monkeys, but generally they do not come onto the balconies or steal things, other than the ripe mangoes from the tree when they are in season!
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Looking for some beach time on Nevis? This island excursion from St Kitts includes a tour of Nevis and time on Pinney’s beach to relax and order lunch.
Breakfast at The Hermitage
We enjoyed our lazy breakfasts on the restaurant verandah overlooking the orchard, with all dishes served from the menu or on request rather than buffet style. On offer was a choice of fresh local juices to start, our favourite being the milky and fragrant Soursop. Coffee or tea was served at the table, with other choices from the menu.
We would generally start with a plate of fresh fruit accompanied by home made yoghurt or milk soaked muesli. My favourite to follow was the oh-so-moreish coconut French toast, with a sweet syrup to pour indulgently on top. Guy always ordered the baked egg and cheese souffle, with tomatoes and herbs, which was truly tasty.
There were many other options, of eggs cooked any way you please, or a full cooked breakfast, but we enjoyed trying these house specialties.
Dining at The Hermitage Nevis
Dinner was served on the covered verandah, overlooking the gardens and orchard. Table settings were old school elegant, with white table cloths, sparkling glassware and a sprinkling of fairy lights. We dined in the restaurant on one of the evenings of our stay, and enjoyed a dinner of salad with dates and walnuts to start. This was followed by locally caught Mahi Mahi in a caper sauce and an accompaniment of fresh vegetables.
The menu is a la carte with a choice of two or three dishes per course, and a menu that changes daily. The style of cuisine seems to be elevated home cooking, with the emphasis on local produce, fruit and vegetables. Spices and herbs are harvested directly from the gardens surrounding the hotel.
Chef Alex was on vacation when we visited, but he has introduced a traditional wood burning oven at The Hermitage. It is used on Fridays for the Italian themed night, to produce pizzas with creative local toppings. Wednesday nights are also a highlight with the West Indian buffet, so if you are visiting from outside the hotel we’d recommend Wednesday or Friday as the best days to dine at The Hermitage.
If you are not able to stay on Nevis, you can still take these tours from nearby St Kitts
Half day Island tour of Nevis from Basseterre
The West Indian buffet at The Hermitage
The Hermitage is one of the best hotels on Nevis to taste a traditional Caribbean feast, at their West Indian Buffet, with a pig roast that is held each Wednesday evening. The Caribbean buffet is well known on the island and often attended by visitors from other hotels and local residents who want a dinner featuring all the favourite traditional dishes. I was alerted the whole piglet roasting on a spit in the orchard, by the squeak, not of the pig itself but of the spit turning slowly over the brazier.
Our evening started with one of the famous Hermitage Rum punches in the elegant rooms of the Great House, as visitors gathered in anticipation of the meal ahead. We moved for dinner to the tables on the covered verandah, where a fish soup was served as a starter. Meanwhile, in the dining room of the Great House all the dishes of a veritable feast were laid out on the antique mahogany table.
Even by Caribbean standards where multiple dishes are often served, the table was groaning with all the different things to try. We moved around the table, serving ourself from the local dishes of fried plantains, fried fish, cooked vegetables, salads and sauces.
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After hours on the spit, the roast pig was meltingly tender and there were some house specialties too, like the Hermitage rabbit pie which was very tasty. I guess this is the closest we would get to the multiple dishes that would be served in a Nevis household on a feast day like Christmas or one of the other local festivals.
More accommodation at The Hermitage Nevis
The Hermitage Nevis is known for its Gingerbread cottages that are scattered around the gardens and grounds. All the hotel’s accommodation is in these pretty cottages or in larger buildings like the Carriage House, that have been converted with separate apartments on the ground floor and first floor.
The Lupinacci family have a keen interest in the vernacular architecture of the Caribbean and have made a business of constructing new wooden villas on Nevis, keeping the traditional carpentry techniques alive.
Many of the guest cottages were moved from other locations or constructed as exact replicas of older buildings. The hotel started with just 4 guest rooms but has now grown to 13 rooms for up to 35 guests, spread across the property and painted in tropical shades of pink, turquoise and yellow.
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Gingerbread cottages
Pretty wooden “Gingerbread” cottages are scattered around the grounds, offering spacious accommodation, since they have a separate sitting room and kitchenette. In days gone by each wooden Chattel house would be built just big enough to be moved on a cart if required, with a gabled roof and covered outdoor verandah added on the front.
As more space was needed, a second or third house could be added on at the side, each forming an extra room. All the rooms around The Hermitage are decorated in similar country house style, with antique furnishings, four poster beds and pretty vintage objects that have been collected by the family over the years.
Annie Lupinacci has recently opened a home decor boutique and art gallery at Indigo Blue in Charlestown. She told me how she is gradually refreshing the rooms and adding colourful prints of Caribbean scenes by local artist Kate Spencer. Her aim is to to update here and there, while maintaining the same comfortable Caribbean charm that was created by the late Maureen Lupinacci.
My favourite of the Gingerbread cottages was The Pink House, with spacious interiors, polished wooden floors and pretty antique furniture.
Hillside Rooms
The Carriage House is one of the original 18th century buildings of the estate that has been renovated to house a number of suites. The walls are of old stone, topped with wooden balconies that give a prime view of the gardens where the Vervet monkeys play in the afternoon. As there are several separate rooms within one building, The Carriage House would be ideal for families or groups of friends.
Balcony Rooms
Balcony Rooms offer the best value, in a two story building with rooms on both floors. Despite the building’s modern construction, the effect is colourful and charming, with enclosed balconies, light and airy rooms filled with traditional furnishings, and pretty painted exteriors.
Villas at The Hermitage
Across the lane from the main hotel, The Hermitage owns two private villas, each set in its own gardens. The Yellow Manor House has three bedrooms and is a modern replica of a Nevis Great House. Rose Villa is the larger of the two with four bedrooms and has a private swimming pool. Either of the villas is ideal for family groups who can self cater or use the hotel’s restaurant and other facilities.
If you are not able to stay on Nevis, you can still take these tours from nearby St Kitts
Half day Island tour of Nevis from Basseterre
Activities at The Hermitage Nevis
Life at The Hermitage is pretty laid back, with ample opportunity for chilling in the hammock on your verandah. But if you fancy getting a bit more active, there is a tennis court just across the lane from the main property. Raquets are available to borrow and if you are really keen, a tennis pro can be arranged.
Just above The Hermitage, lanes and small roads encircle the slopes of the Nevis peak, enabling you to hike along the old cart roads used in the past by locals to get from one plantation to another. Numerous hiking trails run up the slopes of Nevis Peak. Some you can follow on your own, others are a little more difficult to follow, taking in waterfalls and rainforest trails, so a guide is recommended and easily arranged by the hotel.
Of course the swimming pool is there to cool off and swim a few lazy lengths, and it’s a 15 minute drive to some of the beautiful beaches on the west side of the island.
Looking for some beach time on Nevis? This island excursion from St Kitts includes a tour of Nevis and time on Pinney’s beach to relax and order lunch.
Art House Boutique at The Hermitage
Annie Lupinacci runs The Art House Boutique, in a traditional wooden house by the entrance to The Hermitage. The boutique is surprisingly spacious inside and packed with resort wear for your Caribbean holiday. Colourful floaty dresses crowd with beach bags, pretty jewellery, scarves and sun hats.
There are also some lovely souvenirs that you’ll want to take home. Kids t-shirts are printed to Annie’s own animal designs, and also stocked are gift cards by local artists and books that tell the stories of Nevis.
If you are in Charlestown, stop by at Annie’s newest boutique Indigo Blue, which houses a collection of stylish homeware, gifts and artwork by St Kitts based artist Kate Spencer. The shop is in another traditional old building called Riviere House, which is planned to be a gallery for Kate Spencer’s colourful paintings and prints evoking scenes from life on Nevis and St Kitts.
I’ve been an admirer of Kate’s work since I last visited St Kitts and bought one of her scarves in The Gallery boutique in Basseterre, which has now sadly closed. Annie also sells Kate Spencer prints and cards at The Art House and plans to add them to many of the rooms at The Hermitage.
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Sustainability at The Hermitage
The Hermitage offers a relaxing and low key experience that feels like staying as the personal guest of the Lupinacci family. Among the sustainability initiatives we observed were:
- The family have a keen interest in preserving the old buildings of Nevis and the skills used to maintain them. In addition to the hotel, they manage the construction of traditional style wooden villas on land that they own, in order to promote and preserve the traditional carpentry skills needed for wooden buildings.
- There is no air conditioning in the hotel which saves electricity. Instead the rooms are cooled in the traditional way, by careful positioning to catch sea breezes and shade from the gardens. Electric fans are available where needed.
- Single use plastic is avoided in the rooms and restaurant, with water and juice being served from glass jugs.
- The toiletries that we saw in the rooms were from more sustainable brands, although there is still some use of single use plastic.
- The focus in the restaurant is on supporting local farmers and fishermen, serving local and seasonal produce wherever possible. The weekly West Indian buffet is a wonderful showcase for local dishes and cuisine.
If you are not able to stay on Nevis, you can still take these tours from nearby St Kitts
Half day Island tour of Nevis from Basseterre
Who will enjoy staying at The Hermitage Nevis?
- The Hermitage is a charming Caribbean retreat for those who want a quiet place to relax, unwind and catch up on their reading in the hammock.
- The property will appeal to visitors interested in the history and heritage of Nevis, on this former plantation with a Great House dating back to the 17th century.
- Many of the cottages have separate sitting rooms and kitchenettes, which will appeal to those who want more space and the flexibility to prepare snacks and light meals.
- The hotel seems to appeal to both UK and American guests depending on the time of year. Accommodation in individual cottages is ideal for couples of all ages and will also appeal to families with younger children who want a place that is relaxed and unstuffy.
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Good to know
- The rooms do not have air conditioning, but rather are kept cool in the traditional manner by ocean breezes, shaded shutters and verandahs and electric fans.
- With such an old property, it’s inevitable that what Richie calls the “Gremlins” will sometimes be at play and things don’t quite work as they should. As an example the wifi in our cottage was quite weak. The Hermitage team deal promptly with issues that arise, but patience may need to be applied to things such as plumbing or lighting if they go wrong.
- The beach is a 10-15 minute drive from the hotel and we recommend renting a car if you want to see the most of the island.
- The island of Nevis and The Hermitage offer a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. If you are looking for nightlife, this is probably not the island or the hotel for you.
Location of The Hermitage Nevis
The Hermitage is located on the island of Nevis in the Leeward Island Group of the West Indies. At only 36 square mile, Nevis is the smaller of the two islands that make up the Caribbean nation of St Kitts and Nevis.
To reach Nevis, most guests arrive via the airport on St Kitts and take a ferry or water taxi across the short straits that divide the two islands.
The Hermitage sits on the slopes of Nevis Peak bordering the rainforest, on the southern side of Nevis. Journey time from the island capital of Charlestown where ferries and water taxis dock to the hotel is around 15 minutes by taxi.
If you are not able to stay on Nevis, you can still take these tours from nearby St Kitts
Half day Island tour of Nevis from Basseterre
Book your stay at The Hermitage Nevis
Book your stay directly with The Hermitage through their website or contact them directly to discuss your requirements. The Hermitage can also be booked as a package through travel companies that specialise in luxury Caribbean holidays.
Find more gorgeous places to stay – hotels in Nevis or hotels in St Kitts
Where else to stay in Nevis
If there’s no availability at The Hermitage, we can also recommend a couple of other small luxury hotels on Nevis. Check out Montpelier Plantation and Beach and The Golden Rock which are also plantation hotels.
Stay at the luxurious Montpelier Plantation & Beach at the foot of Nevis Peak
Stay at the stylish Golden Rock Nevis, surrounded by tropical gardens
How to reach Nevis from St Kitts
It’s surprisingly easy to get to Nevis from St Kitts, with numerous ferry or water taxi crossings each day. Here are a few options to reach the hotel
Flying into the Robert L. Bradshaw international airport close to Basseterre on St Kitts you can then:
- Take a taxi from the St Kitts airport to the ferry terminal in Basseterre (10 mins / cost $20-25 US). Next take one of the regular ferries that run around 1-2 times per hour to Charlestown, capital of Nevis (30 mins / cost one way 32 EC – $12 US). A taxi from Charlestown ferry terminal in Nevis will take you to The Hermitage (15 mins / cost $20-25 US). This is the route we used to arrive in Nevis. Take care if your flight arrives late in the day as there are less ferries to Nevis available later in day. Ferries run around every 30-60 minutes throughout the day on the hour and half hour and exact timetables can be viewed at each ferry port but may be subject to change.
- Alternatively the hotel can organise a direct taxi / water taxi transfer to the hotel (cost around $150 US) This is the quickest route to the hotel and advisable if you are arriving late in the day or want a stress free transfer. The private transfer will involve a taxi from St Kitts airport to Cockleshell Beach on the south side of St Kitts (20 mins). From the beach pier a water taxi will be waiting to take you to Charlestown Nevis (15-20 mins). At Charlestown a taxi will take you to the hotel (15 mins)
Direct flights to Nevis
There is also Vance W. Amory international Airport in the north of Nevis, which is a possibility for private planes. Direct flights arrive to Nevis Airport from Puerto Rico and a few other Caribbean islands. From Nevis airport it is a 25 min taxi ride to The Hermitage.
Taking a hire car to Nevis
If you have a hire car and wish to travel with it to Nevis, there is also a car ferry (Sea Bridge) that runs from the south of St Kitts at Major’s Bay to Cades Bay on the west side of Nevis. The ferry runs around 3 times per day but can be subject to change.
We could not confirm the exact cost of the ferry but we heard it is $100 US return. You need to check with your car hire company that the car is allowed on the sea bridge. This route is best suited to those who plan to be on St Kitts for a few days before arriving in Nevis and want the convenience of one rental car in both locations.
Flights to St Kitts and Nevis
Most international visitors to Nevis arrive via St Kitts airport. From the UK the only direct flight is with British Airways twice weekly (Wednesday and Saturday) from London Gatwick (LGW) with a brief touchdown in Antigua.
Flights from the USA include a popular daily flight from Miami (MIA) with American Airlines who also fly weekly on a Saturday from Charlotte (CLT) and New York (JFK).
Air Canada runs a weekly Saturday flights from Toronto (YYZ). Delta flies weekly from Atlanta (ATL) and flights from other Caribbean islands are operated by Liat, United, Seabourne, Winair.
Note that information is provided based on our experience and best information at time of writing, but you should check for up to date information online or via a travel agent before making travel plans.
Plan your visit to St Kitts and Nevis
If you are planning a visit to beautiful St Kitts and Nevis you’ll find plenty more information on the Nevis Tourism website and the St Kitts Tourism website.
Planning a visit to St Kitts and Nevis? We recommend the Footprint Guide to St Kitts, Nevis, Antigua and Monserrat
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Heather’s 4 night stay at The Hermitage was hosted* by the hotel
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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