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An authentic Portuguese meal at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

If you want to try authentic regional Portuguese cuisine just like your Portuguese mãe might make, in a slightly crumbling tiled Moorish mansion, then I highly recommend Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon.

At Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon, Portugal

At Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon, Portugal

This place, on the pedestrianised Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, is like a cultural centre, home from home and working man’s club to the good folk of the Alentejo region who migrated to Lisbon in the past in search of work in the big city. The place is not the most obvious to find, but bypass the more touristy restaurants where the waiters wait to lure you inside and search out No 58. As you go through the door from the street and up the marble steps, you’ll come to an internal courtyard, where there was a drinks reception for an author going one when we visited.

 

The internal courtyard at Casa do Alentejo

The internal courtyard at Casa do Alentejo

 

 

Dining room at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

Dining room at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

 

We were slightly worried we were gatecrashing, but continued through the crowd and up some more stairs to the next floor where there were three different restaurant rooms, each with different tiled decorations. We ended up seated among the blue and white tiles in a bustling canteen atmosphere – with nothing smart or pretentious and lots of couples and larger groups of locals filling the place up.

 

Dining room at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

Dining room at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

 

 

Pork with clams at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

Pork with clams at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

 

We started with Pork scratchings, which were fresh from the oven and nothing like you’d get in a packet at the pub. Then it was large chunks of salt cod with sweet roasted peppers and a pork stew with clams. It was all really good and tasty and then I ordered a mixed plate of different cakes and tarts which was really more for two people to share, but Guy had already ordered his creamy rice pudding dusted with cinnamon. So far, so greedy. We took the waiter’s recommendation for some white Alentejo wine to wash it down. Meanwhile, all those attending the reception had filtered up into the magnificent ballroom on the other side of the building and were enjoying a rather smart sit down meal.

 

Salt cod with sweet peppers at Casa do Alentejo

Salt cod with sweet peppers at Casa do Alentejo

 

 

Deserts at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

Deserts at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

 

Top marks went to the ladies bathrooms downstairs, a lovely old fashioned pannelled and mirrored pink confection that looked as if it was the height of fashion in the 1930s. What a great place to go if you want to feel you’ve found a hidden gem and try some authentic Portuguese food, although it can’t be that much of a secret as it was rated in my guidebook as one of the top 10 places to eat in Lisbon. More importantly, my brother in law, who grows tomatoes and regularly visits Lisbon on business, puts it as his favourite in the whole city. Now there’s a recommendation for you.

This posted as part of WanderFood Wednesday – see the Thanksgiving delights and other foodie feasts over at Wanderlust and Lipstick

 

Ballroom at Casa do Alentejo

Ballroom at Casa do Alentejo

 

 

Ladies Bathroom at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

Ladies Bathroom at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon

 

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 58, 1150-069, Close to Av. Liberdade, Lisbon Tel 213405140

Looking for a hotel in Lisbon? Compare prices and book through Hotels Combined

Lisbon Resources

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13 Comments

  • Reply
    jen laceda
    December 2, 2009 at 3:17 am

    I’ve already bookmarked this for future travel to Lisbon. It’s been 13 years since I’ve been! I miss Lisbon! The food looks great and the surroundings even more.

  • Reply
    Barbara at Hole in the Donut Travels
    December 2, 2009 at 3:20 am

    Yummm! The salt cod and peppers set my mouth to watering.

  • Reply
    Keith
    December 2, 2009 at 1:58 pm

    There’s a Portuguese restaurant in Sydney, where they served grilled beef on a sort of skewer arrangement, which was suspended over a piece of bread. Is this common?

    Never actually been to Portugal, although we’ll be in Madeira next week. Don’t think we’re staying long enough for a meal, though.

  • Reply
    Heather Cowper
    December 2, 2009 at 8:59 pm

    @ Keith – never seen that skewer arrangement, but we were only in Lisbon for a weekend – perhaps it’s a speciality of one particular region.

  • Reply
    Gourmantic
    December 3, 2009 at 10:40 pm

    That salt cod looks very tempting! I like restaurants where they pay attention to the interior decoration as well as the food.

  • Reply
    Wanderluster
    December 4, 2009 at 5:04 am

    Great photos, Heather. You’ve painted such a complete picture here. I really feel like I’ve been there myself!

  • Reply
    Review of Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide to Lisbon by Dorling Kindersley | Heather on her travels
    December 7, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    […] 10 list. From the Top 10 restaurant recommendations we anjoyed our salt code with sweet peppers at Casa do Alentejo, from the top 10 culinary highlights we tried those delicious Pasteis de Belem custard tarts, we […]

  • Reply
    Seafood and beer at Cervejaria Trinidade in Lisbon | Heather on her travels
    January 6, 2010 at 8:05 am

    […] restaurant recommendations, and having enjoyed a great meal at one of his other favourites at Casa do Alentejo on the Friday night, we decided to give it a try. It was our final taste Lisbon, but it was mid-day […]

  • Reply
    Review of Hotel Heritage Av.Liberdade in Lisbon | Heather on her travels
    April 24, 2010 at 6:34 pm

    […] choices to eat. In the backstreets just down the road, we enjoyed our first evening at the Casa do Alentejo with hearty traditional cooking surrounded by more blue and white tiles and up in Chiado I’ll […]

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    A shop full of sardines at Conserveira de Lisboa - in Lisbon | Heather on her travels
    April 24, 2010 at 8:11 pm

    […] Having my Pastéis and eating it in Lisbon Seafood and beer at Cervejaria Trinidade in Lisbon An authentic Portuguese meal at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon […]

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    An autumn weekend in Lisbon - Podcast episode 5 | Heather on her travels
    May 14, 2010 at 11:03 pm

    […] dinner we ate at Casa do Alentejo a restaurant set in a Moorish Mansion that serves as a Cultural Centre for the Alentejo Region of […]

  • Reply
    Review of Eyewitness Top 10 Lisbon Guide from Dorling Kindersley — Cool Travel Gear
    March 8, 2013 at 9:45 am

    […] 10 list. From the Top 10 restaurant recommendations we anjoyed our salt code with sweet peppers at Casa do Alentejo, from the top 10 culinary highlights we tried those delicious Pasteis de Belem custard tarts, we […]

  • Reply
    Terisa Suon
    November 17, 2016 at 5:43 pm

    It’s hard to find knowledgeable individuals on this subject, but you sound like you recognize what you’re speaking about! Thanks

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