An authentic Portuguese meal at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon
December 1, 2009 by HeatherCowper
If you want to try authentic regional Portuguese cuisine just like your Portuguese mãe might make, in a slightly crumbling tiled Moorish mansion, then I highly recommend Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon.
This place, on the pedestrianised Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, is like a cultural centre, home from home and working man’s club to the good folk of the Alentejo region who migrated to Lisbon in the past in search of work in the big city. The place is not the most obvious to find, but bypass the more touristy restaurants where the waiters wait to lure you inside and search out No 58. As you go through the door from the street and up the marble steps, you’ll come to an internal courtyard, where there was a drinks reception for an author going one when we visited.
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We were slightly worried we were gatecrashing, but continued through the crowd and up some more stairs to the next floor where there were three different restaurant rooms, each with different tiled decorations. We ended up seated among the blue and white tiles in a bustling canteen atmosphere – with nothing smart or pretentious and lots of couples and larger groups of locals filling the place up.
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We started with Pork scratchings, which were fresh from the oven and nothing like you’d get in a packet at the pub. Then it was large chunks of salt cod with sweet roasted peppers and a pork stew with clams. It was all really good and tasty and then I ordered a mixed plate of different cakes and tarts which was really more for two people to share, but Guy had already ordered his creamy rice pudding dusted with cinnamon. So far, so greedy. We took the waiter’s recommendation for some white Alentejo wine to wash it down. Meanwhile, all those attending the reception had filtered up into the magnificent ballroom on the other side of the building and were enjoying a rather smart sit down meal.
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Top marks went to the ladies bathrooms downstairs, a lovely old fashioned pannelled and mirrored pink confection that looked as if it was the height of fashion in the 1930s. What a great place to go if you want to feel you’ve found a hidden gem and try some authentic Portuguese food, although it can’t be that much of a secret as it was rated in my guidebook as one of the top 10 places to eat in Lisbon. More importantly, my brother in law, who grows tomatoes and regularly visits Lisbon on business, puts it as his favourite in the whole city. Now there’s a recommendation for you.
This posted as part of WanderFood Wednesday - see the Thanksgiving delights and other foodie feasts over at Wanderlust and Lipstick
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Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 58, 1150-069, Close to Av. Liberdade, Lisbon Tel 213405140
Looking for a hotel in Lisbon? Compare prices and book through Hotels Combined
Lisbon Resources
- Visit Lisboa – Official Tourism Website
- Go Lisbon Blog – I found lots of useful articles on things to do in Lisbon
- On this trip we stayed at the gorgeous luxury boutique Hotel Heritage Av. Liberdade, which was ideally located for sightseeing
- On this trip I used the Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Top 10 travel guide to Lisbon which is a pocket sized guide that’s ideal for sightseeing if you’re there for a short time – read my review here
- Podcast – Hostelworld Podcast – Only in Lisbon
- Podcast – Guardian Unlimited Podcast – Lisbon
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jen laceda on Wed, 2nd Dec 2009 3:17 am
I’ve already bookmarked this for future travel to Lisbon. It’s been 13 years since I’ve been! I miss Lisbon! The food looks great and the surroundings even more.
Barbara at Hole in the Donut Travels on Wed, 2nd Dec 2009 3:20 am
Yummm! The salt cod and peppers set my mouth to watering.
Keith on Wed, 2nd Dec 2009 1:58 pm
There’s a Portuguese restaurant in Sydney, where they served grilled beef on a sort of skewer arrangement, which was suspended over a piece of bread. Is this common?
Never actually been to Portugal, although we’ll be in Madeira next week. Don’t think we’re staying long enough for a meal, though.
admin on Wed, 2nd Dec 2009 8:59 pm
@ Keith – never seen that skewer arrangement, but we were only in Lisbon for a weekend – perhaps it’s a speciality of one particular region.
Gourmantic on Thu, 3rd Dec 2009 10:40 pm
That salt cod looks very tempting! I like restaurants where they pay attention to the interior decoration as well as the food.
Wanderluster on Fri, 4th Dec 2009 5:04 am
Great photos, Heather. You’ve painted such a complete picture here. I really feel like I’ve been there myself!
Review of Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide to Lisbon by Dorling Kindersley | Heather on her travels on Mon, 7th Dec 2009 9:49 pm
[...] 10 list. From the Top 10 restaurant recommendations we anjoyed our salt code with sweet peppers at Casa do Alentejo, from the top 10 culinary highlights we tried those delicious Pasteis de Belem custard tarts, we [...]
Seafood and beer at Cervejaria Trinidade in Lisbon | Heather on her travels on Wed, 6th Jan 2010 8:05 am
[...] restaurant recommendations, and having enjoyed a great meal at one of his other favourites at Casa do Alentejo on the Friday night, we decided to give it a try. It was our final taste Lisbon, but it was mid-day [...]
Review of Hotel Heritage Av.Liberdade in Lisbon | Heather on her travels on Sat, 24th Apr 2010 6:34 pm
[...] choices to eat. In the backstreets just down the road, we enjoyed our first evening at the Casa do Alentejo with hearty traditional cooking surrounded by more blue and white tiles and up in Chiado I’ll [...]
A shop full of sardines at Conserveira de Lisboa - in Lisbon | Heather on her travels on Sat, 24th Apr 2010 8:11 pm
[...] Having my Pastéis and eating it in Lisbon Seafood and beer at Cervejaria Trinidade in Lisbon An authentic Portuguese meal at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon [...]
An autumn weekend in Lisbon - Podcast episode 5 | Heather on her travels on Fri, 14th May 2010 11:03 pm
[...] dinner we ate at Casa do Alentejo a restaurant set in a Moorish Mansion that serves as a Cultural Centre for the Alentejo Region of [...]